** ANTARCTICA - 2002 **

** Chapter FIVE **

** The ADMIRAL BROWN STATION **



This is the 23 January 2005 edition of this page.



10 December 2002
My 66th Birthday!!


Before my birthday, on this voyage, I had already made TWO antarctic landings.

A good nights sleep only had me awakening once (at 2.20am!) - when I imbibed some water to avoid dehydration and watched the , now, calmish sea as we progressed further South for our next 'landfall'.

I, then., cat-napped throughout the night, awakening hourly until, at 4.30am, and viewed the beautiful waters outside my cabin, and the ship, which showed a calm sea with icebergs at various ranges from 200 metres right to the horizon.

I got up at 6.40am, with even calmer seas and some gently floating ice at all ranges. I then received the 'plan for the day' attached to a clipboard outside my cabin. It said that we are heading for CUVERVILLE ISLAND, planning a landing there during the morning. It is the home for a large rookery of GENTOO PENGUINS!!
Similar to friends on Cuverville Island.




That is at about 64.5 deg South. Before then, breakfast is scheduled between 7.30am and 9.00am.

We had a pre-landing briefing from 9.00am, our group being LAST this morning - but third on this afternoon's arrival at ALMIRANTE BROWN'S station on PARADISE BAY (weather permitting!) That will be at about 64.75 deg South!! - and will be a true Continental Landing - as opposed to these off-shore islands to-date!

The sea is VERY CALM right now at 7.00am. I went upstairs to the 'accurate map area' and chatted with Martin and Freida, before returning at 07.20 hours to do my teeth. Breakfast was then from 0730 and the 'briefing' (pre- landing) for CUVERVILLE ISLAND followed.

We heard that Groups '3, 4 and 1' will go at about 9.10am onwards - and we (Group2) from about 10.00am.. I'll leave my binoculars and camera on the ship (in my cabin) to avoid damage on the transfers - and to make 'wandering' easier. The 'pilot zodiacs' left before the 'passenger zodiacs' to do their survey and assessment on the currently best landing place!

Our group (No2) went at 10.45 to the 'changing room' (for our boots and belts!) and the wonderful hour was had around the PENGUIN rookeries from 11.15 to 12.15hrs. That was my MOST WONDERFUL EXPERIENCE for many years!

Later, my midday meal was had with Martin & Freida (interrupted only by a 'Wingeing Aussi'!) before some bright photography was undertaken from Deck5. Back in my cabin, the announcer said that we are passing WATERBOAT POINT! Later, we anchored in the very still waters of PARADISE BAY for the ADMIRAL BROWN STATION.

Much photography was undertaken in the sunshine - during the wait for our group's "calling". I spent most of that time with Freida!

For the PARADISE BAY landing, there were NO 'medium sized' boots available when I got there - and NO HELP from anyone was available!! The only 'sensible' advice was to get the nearest size - which was a LARGE one (plenty of those were available!)

It was clear to my 'safety-conscious' mind that I would not be able to walk on the ADMIRAL BROWN base - and would have to stay relatively static! I did just that, - and had to forego the adventurous ascent of the hill leading from base's landing stage.

When the call came for "four people for the ZODIAC CRUISE (up the fjord)", I was so pleased to be able to get off my treacherous spot that I left earlier than planned! Unfortunately, I slipped and fell VERY HEAVILY on my posterior on the solid concrete base!

Some people of various nations, realising my predicament, kinding lifted me up - and guided me to the next waiting ZODIAC. This took me (and three others) several miles round the coast of this part of Antarctica, where we looked at birds and seals in their natural environments.

Unfortunately, my heavy fall was causing me problems with turning my body to look in directions advised by our latest guide. I tried to rotate a little - but such moves caused me to GRIMACE each time.

Landing back at the NORDNORGE went relatively painlessly, but THERE I saw RECEPTION about booking the DOCTOR! A nurse questionned me in a few moments, but I didn't see the Doctor until 19.20hours (just before "dinner"!). He gave me some tablets for 'pain-relief' and assured me nothing is broken - and that I can still use my joints and muscles for exercise.

I joined Freida, Martin and Ron for the (birthday) party they'd organised for me. This came at the 'end of the meal' with a song in Ron's Northern Irish brogue (the traditional UK 'Happy Birthday' with the modification at the end " .. no bloody use to any-E-one and no bloody use at all!...") and the delivery of the SPECIAL CAKE, fireworks and ALL THE CREW in attendance (probably part-arranged by ALVIN, our waiter!).

Each of the crew approached me, individually for a few words and CONGRATULATIONS. (They are all multilingual lecturers!) My favourite, SUNNIVA, was there too - so we had a few words together on this occasion. I really will have to get a photo of her soon!!

After the meal, I returned to my cabin, took the medicine from the doctor, and started a painfree night of sleep.

(The travelogue will continue in the next chapter.)


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