** ALASKA - 2002**
** TSUNAMI territory !! **
This page updated on 26 Nov 04
21 May 02 (Tuesday)
I only woke up ONCE during the night - namely - at 4.30am, and the next time I knew was 6.55am (time to get up! I did!!)
Quickly going up for breakfast, I selected my preferred range of 'goodies' - before my walk around the PROMENADE DECK,
- we are already secured to a 'floating dock' and all engines have been closed down!
To think that on Good Friday morning of 1964, the highest rated EARTHQUAKE (9.2 on the Richter Scale) struck here
in North America. It was the cause of a massive TSUNAMI that swept up to VALDEZ, washing the DOCK away - amongst
other things (apparently, there were 30 people on it!).
The DESTRUCTION was so complete that the TOWN was condemned and then rebuilt on a new site 4miles to the west (on
more stable ground).
1989's Good Friday wasn't any better. It was then that the 'off-course' EXXON VALDEZ tanker ran aground on the
Bligh Reef, spilling 11.2 million barrels of CRUDE OIL. Yuck!! Messy!!!
One woman, met on BALI Deck, said that we had received a MASSIVE WELCOME (we were the first ship of their
'season') - with music, fireworks, lots of noise etc - and all this at 6.30am (my 'normal' getting-up time!).
Between breakfast and our boarding of the BUS for the VALDEZ ENVIRONS TOUR, I mooched around the decks
and the dock. This tour was not the advertised 2hour trip - but nearer 'two and a half hours' - and it visited:-
(a) The site of the OLD VALDEZ (before the earthquake's TSUNAMI had removed all but for a few 'basements')
which was at the eastern end of Port Valdez, and other village remains, rivers etc,
(b) The LOWE RIVER,
(c) Keystone CANYON,
(d) where the ALASKA PIPELINE underpasses the road,
(e) the BRIDAL VEIL FALLS,
(f) HORSE'S TAIL FALLS,
(g) NEW VALDEZ (visitor centre). At this point, I left the 'tour' for shops and ices in a store in New Valdez,
before returning to the 'shuttle' to get back to the ship!
Today's tour-bus had covered a 28mile (each way) journey of 56 miles, whilst the 'shuttle-bus' slowly covered
its 6 miles between the stops for sightseeing.
I took an excellent LUNCH on board the UNIVERSE EXPLORER from just after 12noon, - and then
wandered, rested and refreshed myself with coffee etc..Later on, from 1.30pm, I watched Channel9's
"Valdez to the FAIRBANKS TRAIL" until 2pm and then searched (by binoculars!) for the important
VALDEZ OIL TERMINUS.
It shows on the map as being across the bay, so my binoculars scanned the whole bay (including the
bit where it is supposed to be!) and identified several interesting things. I tried viewing from different
decks for different angles, including the VALDEZ NARROWS exit from the bay (whose shape, size
and orientation will have influenced by the TSUNAMI actions!!)
At 3pm, I watched a third of the film "NANOOK OF THE NORTH" (that is, incidentally, one of the 'names'
that I've acquired over the years!) but is probably a French made (as advertised) silent film! This film, helpfully,
had music with English subtitles! I found that it got boring, after a while, so I really could not watch the whole
69 minutes!!
After trying a few minutes of a 'crap American film', I decided that it was time to continue writing my notes and
prepare for the next day's agenda! Then, for my afternoon visit, I made my way for 'teatime' in the Harbour
Grill (on the promenade deck) before my attendance at Dr Dick Thoms with his presentation of "LANDSCAPING
WITH ICE - Glacially Modified Terrain".
I brought it to his attention, in private, about my following of the
MILANKOVICH theories - and how well the ice-ages etc fit in! He agreed with me that much in the 'press etc'
is pure alarmist and not based on science.
Then there was the beautiful 'Folk Musicianship' of CIEL DUKE and KARL FINGER, the former on the
dulcimer etc, with Karl on guitar and vocals. Next, there was the evening meal - which was OK this time - but
not brilliant!
I checked the Group Photo No with CATHY - it was 103-02 , - so I ordered one just after the meal. The cost, by plastic
card for this was $6.00. I followed this up with a visit to the MID-OCEAN LOUNGE for the entertaining care of
EVENING MADNESS!!
22 May 02 (Wednesday)
I awoke at 4.30am and 5.45am before getting up for breakfast and 'preparation activities' from 6.30am (until 7.15am).
Then I got ready for a SHUTTLE bus to and from SEWARD. Today has been the first RAINY day, so my umbrella was
used extensively to and, in the short stay, around Seward.
The bussed mileage was 6 miles for the return trip. It stopped, on the way there (and back) at a SMALL BOAT HARBOUR,
but I got OFF & ON at the town's SEA-LIFE CENTRE. On return to my cabin, I saw the 2nd half of the JOE REDINGTON
story, before getting my normal dose of 'decaf' coffee and then re-meeting Dr DICK THOMS for a chat on Glaciology,
the Alaska Geographic Magazine and dog-sledding.
On the latter, he told me that the main difference between Alaskan and Greelandic dog teams is in their line-ups (or left/right
as in Greenland!). I made a little survey on Alaskan Glaciers in the ship's library before returning to my cabin to watch the
video "The SERUM RACE to NOME". It was a multi-legged journey with 20 mushers acting in a RELAY fashion!
I had a slow, meaningful, lunch from 11.35 until 12.15hrs, and then visited the LIBRARY for MILANKOVIC readings
and the ice-age theory studies. I found NO mathematics on the phases of each 'cycle', but got more info about the global
effect of the two MAJOR ICE areas (Antarctica and Greenland).
I shall have to consider them in future - as well as short-cycle solar effects (11years and 44 years)!! After the LIBRARY, it
was 'back to my cabin' to get ready for the VIDEO about the ALASKAN EARTHQUAKE of 1964. The 22 minute video
starts at 13.30hrs.. After that, I generally mooched around the five decks on the 'boat' until the tea-time food!
Then it was chatting with the various English, American women and New Zealand personnel until I went back to the cabin
for the first half of JOE REDINGTON'S life-story on the TV video.
With 'time' on my hands, I got my PASSPORT to the purser's office ahead of time as requested at 5pm.. From previously
making all my journey by stairs on this trip, I've been converted to a LIFT-user, - my reason being
that it's HARDER to get lost that way!
By 17.15hrs, I'd been for a HOT CHOCOLATE drink, and after dinner, I tried
the 'Jazz' for a couple of seconds (may have even been two or three bars!). Unfortunately, it wasn't TRAD but 'modern' so
I returned to my cabin for the night.
23 May 02 (Thursday)
The second time that I woke up, it was time for dressing and breakfast! I had woken up at 4.50am and 6.50am, -
so now I dressed and went down for breakfast with a good choice of healthy food - and a VERY CALM ocean
for today's sailing.
After breakfast (STILL part of it really!), I got another juice to drink quietly in the 'Mid-Ocean Lounge'.
UNFORTUNATELY, Theresa, with the 'All-American loud-mouth voice' (offensive at any time, let alone at
7.30 in the morning!!) occupies it at the moment. She was pushing the victims with her "Morning Stretch" and
"Sit-to-be-fit" exercises. Yugh!!
These pathetic people were overseen by a pathetic voice. I descended with my juice (a certain TROPICAL one)
through various floors by 'lift' and got to my cabin for some REAL PEACE!
Then, later, I went walking around the outer decks, viewing the beautifully calm ocean - which obviously bodes
well for today's voyage.
I followed this with more refreshments in the various cabins on the ship - and then got ready for the GEOLOGY
lecture by DICK THOMS. Unfortunately, it had been cancelled, the projectionist, looking somewhat confused,
saying "I don't know, he just left the ship yesterday!"
On talking with another lecturer in the ship's library (namely Dr Ella Rosenberg) - she told me that he's got "family
problems at home". As Dick couldn't deal with the problem out here, he had no option but to return home. She
also said that they are trying to get Dick's son, also a GEOLOGIST, as his replacement lecturer. Unsuccessful,
for today, but he'll appear later during the voyage.
I did a three-quarter hour's read in the Library on Geology and its various aspects - mainly on Plate Tectonics!
From 11.30 hrs until 12.10hrs, I indulged in the Lunch Buffet with another good selection of food (both
main-course and the sweet!) - but the first of the 'incessant chatter' (more like shouting!) of many American
women was replaced by the 'incessant chatter' (very loud!) of some 'upper crust' English Women!! Ii seems
as if one can't escape from these creatures! (We even had two in our own party!) I finished my lunch on a
separate table (in an attempt to get out of earshot of these TWO British 'loudmouths'!) before relaxing in
my own cabin awaiting the start of the next VIDEO (on the "BUSH PILOTS OF ALASKA").
In the meantime (at 12.45hrs) I got some refreshment on the CARD at the onboard shop. Later, I made a
coffee visit to the HERBOU GRILL and a prolonged library visit - for a search for reading and references
on MILANKOVIC's theory. They even went through the decline and rebirth of his theory!! I found
many graphs in one of the books to show the general current acceptance of the theory.
(...... To be continued in the next chapter...)
Return to 2002's Index-page
return to Malvern-Vancouver leg of journey
or return to Ketchikan
return to ALASKA Index Page
or return to Roy's home page for full
list of books/travelogues either finished or under preparation.