** ANTARCTICA - 2002 **
** Chapter TWO **
** Across DRAKES PASSAGE from Cape Horn **
This is the 13 Oct 2004 edition
of this page.
6 December 2002 (continued)
I was picked up by the ALL-PATAGONIA representative in USHUAIA and taken, first to their
office - from which point each individual made up their own minds for their own separate ways!
Since we were not going anywhere soon, I decided to wander around this small (most southerly mainland
town) and spend yesterday's loose change (two '2 peso' coins) which got me 2litres of 'mineral water' from
the local post office (PLUS a LARGE banana ice-cream!). Then I tried, slowly, to find our spot for the
'regrouping' at 4pm. Finding toilets and notewriting took me up until 11.25am..
I then went for a walk about the harbour area, around the NORDNORGE berthing place, photographing it and
the shore from the boats's location - and then I tried, unsuccessfully, to find a shop with some protein-containing
food. Back on my 'writing seat' on the 'front' for the third stage of my note-writing, I managed to get these notes
completed by about 12.35hrs.
After a longer walk for my main food and toilets, I met Mr De Silva and his wife by the info room's drink machine.
We chatted about the undesirable length of our LONG wait until we could get ON the boat. Then he checked up
on his EMails since leaving home to come this way. On the computer in that info-room, I also found my own web
and demonstrated it to him and his wife.
They were both interested in what I showed, - namely my travels, the boats I'd used, my SPACE info - all on this
handy free-access terminal - real FREE!! Martin and I got his wife less frightened by the Internet - and maybe
more relieved about the confusion and confidentiality on the web and the internet.
Eventually, we made the bus journey to board the NORDNORGE and get the programmes, the cards and the seating
arrangements sorted out. It would be nice, we thought, to get the FOUR of us together on the same table rather
than separated like in 'their plan'. We'll have to meet the canteen staff for the seating re-arrangements. We'd tell
RON when he gets back from his Patagonian exploration.
In the meantime, we have such things as BRIEFINGS, WELCOMES etc to contend with. Ron was obviously feeling 'hurt'
with his problems with producing another 'customs' document having released his original one on entering URAGUAY.
Martin, his wife and myself attended the 'safety briefing' with good humour, whilst appreciating the dangers in the
ANTARCTIC. We went to find the 'individual' MUSTER numbers for practice on getting to the correct lifeboat
on time. Some glaring inadequacies were clear for all of us to see!! After having 'roll calls' for each 'muster group',
we then returned to our own rooms before partaking in the EVENING MEALS. Mine was a lot of salad, tomatoes,
meats, mayonaise, onions etc, etc. [I avoided the many fishes!!]
I did miscellaneous coach-journeys today - after the MD88 flight - totalling Five Miles, - and eventually went to the
quay for the NORDNORGE.
The evening meal was VERY good, including wonderful water, blackberry crumble etc.. I shall be leaving this table
with the two AUSSIs and 4 other English speakers for tomorrow's breakfast. I will be joining Ron, Martin and his
wife as planned! (...and agreed with the crew!)
My preparation for bed was from 23.00 hours, and would catch-up on last-night's lost sleep. There has been a contractual
problem with the suppliers of the ship's fuel - and this has to be SOLVED before take-off! Thus the ship's departure
was delayed from 21.00 to 24.00 (??) hours. Good night, Roy!!
7 December 2002
USHUAIA is at 54deg49minsS and 68deg13minsW, using the info from a leaflet from the INFO OFFICE on
board.
I was awakened, at 3.39am, by the start-up of the engines - and the SHIP'S movement start. Shortly afterwards,
I realised that we don't appear to be moving in the very calm sea!! However, at 3.45am, we DID start the movement
away from the dock at Ushuaia. So I then went back to bed to sleep.
In fact I slept right through to 5.30am. From my L307 cabin, way up front on the PORT-SIDE, I could see the
calmed sea, chalky cliffs, green grass of the fields, and the mountains beyond. At least these had some SNOW on them!
There were trees in the fields but no houses.
I COULD see a house through my binoculars on the coast behind the offshore lighthouse at 5.52am.. It wasn't
clear from the maps on what land it was! From my USHUAIA leaflet, I think THAT land is to the East of
TIERRA DEL FUEGO!!
Many sea-birds are flying close to the water and in the opposite direction to our course. At this stage, I unpack my case
and load its contents into appropriate parts of my cabin from 6am onwards. Thus I could feel fully 'at home' here. I
washed and dresssed myself by 7am.
It seems that we are travelling along the BEAGLE CHANNEL and, later, pass islands on either side of our boat (nay,
ship!). I then find better maps , not only showing the Argentine exits, routes and islands - but also the ANTARCTIC
itself. Near these maps (in a room I was to visit frequently during the journey) I met another couple of AUSSI-males
and we had a good chat.
Those chats included much technical detail on THRUST SSC and more immediate details on shaving adaptors and
their modifications.
We are now ROUNDING 'CAPE HORN'!!!
Now, I have a 'great' breakfast in the company of Martin DaSilva and his wife who was born in AUSTRIA. That
breakfast had plenty of everything, especially proteins for my eyesight!! Later, at about 10.15a.m, I collected my
VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 'parka', issued to me on Deck3. The deck-hand agreed with my choice of the 'Medium-
sized' parka.
From then onwards, leaving the BEAGLE CHANNEL and entering DRAKES PASSAGE, the wind picked up
and I retired to my cabin to adapt to the waves and their motion (- just like around NORWAY previously). Unfortunately,
these techniques WEREN'T ENOUGH!!!
I SPENT MOST OF THE DAY sitting on the cabin's TOILET with my head in the SINK's BOWL for dealing with
involuntary 'disposals' from my mouth and rear-end! That was clearly a well-designed system - as, on the DRAKE PASSAGE,
both 'disposals' tended to happen SIMULTANEOUSLY!! It contained a 'handy arrangement' of sink, taps, towels, glasses of
water (for when the mineral waters (2.5 litres) from USHUAIA ran out!) - and, not forgetting the toilet of this well-designed
ensuite facility for these cicumstances!!
I was THERE so long that I missed lunch, the lecture (in English) on WHALES, the evening's DINNER and most of
David Attenborough's "Life in the Freezer" (as seen at home in England!). Ron Beattie had phoned me earlier in the day -
to check up on my absence, - and he also reported massive sicknesses on board. I reported that I would STAY HERE
as long as necessary for my recovery to be complete. At around 9pm, Martin also rang to check-up, - and I said that
"I'm off for some FREE "all-night coffee" on the Deck4 shortly.
It was then a bit less-violent on the ocean - and a much calmer sea. At 9.15pm - 9.50pm, I walked up holding onto
the rails and taking my EMPTY BOTTLE from Ushuaia for a possible 'refill' of any 'free' drink. There were none there,
so I just had coffee and milk with my own sugar-free sweetener and bought a DIET COKE in the bar (for 12 NKR,
being charged against my CRUISE-CARD!)
Darkness encroached upon the ship as we slid into calmer waters - and so I resumed my SETTEE position for my night's sleep
at midnight.
8 December 2002
Most of the night was calm, but my multi-cat-napping continued until I got up at 6am.. I was already dressed
in my allnight horizontal position on the settee (using a pillow from the bed).
I prepared for the FIRST meal in the restaurant since YESTERDAY's BREAKFAST - and got my writing up-to-date,
before changing in a more 'relaxed mode' and resting before the meal. (It's a whole different world out there!) At 7.20am,
I went up to the restaurant to join Martin and Freida, - Ron coming along later!
I didn't have much - just orange juice, fruit yoghurt & several glasses of water. Later, after some relaxation, I went
to the English Version of the IAATO guidelines and the Polar Circle Safety Guidelines (that lasted from 10.00 until
10.45am, the four of us [Ron, Martin, Freida and I] sitting together.)
Then, after a 'fresh-air break', we returned for another presentation (in English) by the Norwegian Long Distance
walker , the wonderful SUNNIVA SORBY, about the 'Polar Shift' (arctic extremes) and an audio-visual record
of much that she had photographed on her ALL WOMAN HIKE (pulling all the sledges etc, themselves) to the
SOUTH POLE. What a fit young lady she is!!
(The travelogue will continue in the next chapter)
EMail to:
Roy's Location.
Return to 2002's Index-page
or return to Antarctic index-page
or return to Roy's home page for full
list of books/travelogues either finished or under preparation.