I took a photo of the Ekspedisjon shop, but was not worried by the lack of light, since the lighting of the shop-signs would be adequate. It proved to be so when the film was developed. As we left and the boat plied its way towards the North Pole ( well, North Cape to be more precise!), tears were in my eyes for the love of the place. Songs were running through my mind which I would forever relate to Hammerfest, - they were:- * "South to Alaska" ( to tune of "North to Alaska") * "Leaving of Hammerfest" (to tune of "Leaving of Liverpool") * "I love Hammerfest in the Winter" (to tune of "I love Paris in the Springtime") I felt really at HOME there, people not complaining about the cold - living their lives in the cool fresh air. People were, in this intense cold, walking to work, being on leisure, without hats!! Never mind Roy. I'll be back in two days time. On the way North, I spoke to the crewman, Roy, about my love of Hammerfest. He explained that he and his family felt the same way.The company that run s the Lofoten has its Headquarters there too!! Roy told me about the "Iceberg Club" in Hammerfest. He said that his whole family had joined. My own library books and other references even mentioned the club. Anyone can join, be they a small child with parent (as in Roy's case) or the King of Norway. (the latter did, in fact, join himself). The only condition is that one must apply IN PERSON to the Town Hall in Hammerfest. I had already seen the place on my walk (it's the building with two polar bears outside- albeit full-sized models) and spoke with Roy, at length, whilst he was marking up my Hammerfest map with interesting places which we discussed. On my return, two day's hence, I will become a member of the club and also photograph the good-looking St Michael's Church. I also spoke to Roy about the operators of the boat, their headquarters here, what the Company was like and how things have changed after the integration of the five companies by a "sort of Nationalisation". (Remember, it was the NSR [Norwegian State Railways] who provided me with the overall timetables, documentation, arrangements etc). The Companies still run as separate entities - but are well integrated with their operations. He said that it gives the employees a better "sense of purpose" and doing a job with pride -- and its better for the customers now things have bee brought together so much. Customers and crew eat together and joke together . Here is a REAL classless society with everybody being good friends, enjoying working and all life together. Some members of the crew didn't always eat with us because they, working in different areas (canteen, cargo handling, cookhouse, offices etc) ate 'on the job' which they loved. Sometimes , when off- duty, they would join us. Next port-of-call was Havoysund, a short stop, leaving at 11 a.m.. We were now in the channels near the most northerly points of Europe. I walked for a short stretch of my legs - turning right onto the coast-road, the mountains to my left , the sea down below to the right. I mustn't go too far - but I'd like to see as much as possible ( in the opposite direction to the shops this time!) I met several people with cheery "Hallos" - especially on the way back, meeting a woman of about 30 summers (probably the same number of winters , even in the Arctic) with her playful, large fluffy dog. It was a beautiful hairy husky. My memories of these animals from TV was of the sled-pulling energetic bionic racing machines of the Iditerod Trail. This lady's dog was an altogether `human' type of fun-loving canine friend. It has changed my view of huskies completely!! Our ship moves off after we all re-board and others get on. I settle down to a nice chocolate drink extricated from the push-button machine and paid for at the counter with 13.00Kr. I also felt very much at home at this last stop , - and the whole area feels like a home that I'd like to be in. It is 12noon as we enter a channel just south of NORDKAPP ( the sun at 1.5 degrees up in the sky - how's that for the midday sun?). The reason that we can go south of North Cape is that the Cape is on an island (maybe 7 by 8 miles of very irregular shape). This far North sees me taking photos still - clad only in a trousers and a blue C&W shirt. Whilst coming round the South East corner of NordKapp (sometimes in my cabin, but sometimes in the various lounges) I saw various signs of habitation, in coves and in valleys, terraced lawns of snow and vegetables - or what!? There were about a dozen houses in one `bay' where I took a photo. Later, I saw what may have been Honningvag but half an hour too early! On commenting about this to a crew member, he said " Yes, we have very good wind - Get here quick!" (This crewman was my original receptionist , not Roy who speaks better English) I thus quickly changed into a parka and other gear more appropriate to a NORTH CAPE landing. This was to be our most Northerly point of call (as you gathered, this and Havoysund are even further North than Hammerfest , the World's most Northerly TOWN ( or CITY)) . This should be good!!