** CHINESE EXPERIENCES **
** YANGTZE River Cruise **
This is the 7 Nov 2003 Edition of
this page. It is being transcribed from my diary-like entries!
12 September 2001 - Wednesday (continued)
Leaving the YELLOW CRANE TOWER, we went to visit places of 'small interest' to me,
like a Factory for Hand-made carpets, but then it improved with a restaurant for our lunch-
stop. By general consensus, it was well-liked. This stretch of our journey was about 10 short
miles, and in the afternoon, we visited the HABEI PROVINCIAL MUSEUM, with its many
interesting artifacts, boxes, sculptures and a CHU MUSIC PERFORMANCE with Chinese
Drums and Bells. We exitted there to an ice-cream shop [1Yuan for an ice-lolly!].
We bussed further, through very dense, very stupid, 'laissez-faire' traffic movements, with many
hold-ups en route to the boat. We arrived late at the dock (and the coach added 10 miles for
the displeasure!)
I watched and browsed a bit of TV, once on the boat - and unpacked for the journey - and then explored the
boat. Clearly it was one built for Russians (for their VOLGA cruises) by the same GERMAN
Company that built a LOT of these CLONES for the great Russian River. It was EXACTLY like
the RUSS that I travelled on in my Russian River-Cruise back in 1995.
However, they built MORE than Russia wanted, and could afford, at the time (in about 1993?) -
so they released this one to CHINA - who had some more spare funds!! Travelling along the YANTZE
from WUHAN, I attended the ship's obligatory SAFETY briefing, learned that our journey, onboard,
would be about 841 miles and explored the boat in more detail. Tired, by now, I went to bed early.
13 September 2001 - Thursday
I got up during the night (2.40am- 3.00am) to read the paperwork about the boat, its cabins and the
operating company. I was re-awakened at 7.15am by the 'Wake-up Music' on my cabin-speaker, actually
playing "Butterfly Lovers", and getting announcements in both Chinese and English. Then I got up and dressed
and prepared for the day's "sailing" and other activities.
I was to make several WALKS around our craft, and found my actual Room437 (from the previous [1994-trip] Russian
ship in these 'cloned' productions). I had my breakfast with friends Judy, Ken & Angela and another couple. It
was GOOD food - a buffet service as distinct from a waitress on the RUSSIAN trip!
Immediately, after the 'break', I went for the RIVER BRIEFING, which told us about CHINESE GEOLOGY before
and after the ASIAN PLATE was hit by the INDIAN PLATE - creating the HIMALAYAS, producing climate changes,
monsoons etc.. The speaker also covered CHINESE HISTORY, its divisions and integrations through the years.
In answer to questions, one answer (I only remember it in MILES) was the length of our complete RIVER JOURNEY, -
it will be 841 miles!! He also handed out a double-sided map to "explain where things are" and where we'd be stopping etc..
This was followed by a talk on CHINESE TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
by Dr MA, aided with English & Danish
translations.We all got to finding our OWN 'acupuncture points' and got a 'handout' on it, with Dr MA giving a demo
on a woman passenger with her specific SHOULDER and ARM PROBLEMS.
Apart from applying pressure to ACUPOINTS, it is more effective with needles - and even better with 6 volts applied
between the two needles!! He then massaged her neck and head areas - quite severely, I thought - but she was very
pleased and thankful for the results - which would take about three sessions in practice. This 'medicine' is PRIVATE
aand has a scale of charges - which is larger with 'electricity'!
After the 'talk', I mozied around on deck, speaking to various guests of CTS etc before my 12.45hrs lunch. It was
a GOOD meal with a GOOD sweet - and I was in GOOD company, sitting next to Judy - with other 'regulars' from
our group.
I then had miscellaneous walks and viewings of the YANGTZE from various decks - before going to the "Captain's
Welcome Part" on the Top Deck (No5) for eats, drinks etc.. I got chatting to a 'couple' (she South African, he English),
another couple (both Aussis) and a guy who noticed my THRUST SSC tee-shirt. With this guy, we chatted about his mate who
worked on components for the THRUST2!!
Then I had a good dinner (in the Dining Room on No3 Deck) on the boat - with much chat and friendship with all five people on my table. Afterwards,
we each made our own ways to the "Princess Jeannie Crew Show". It was mostly Eastern Music and dancing with
some elements of humour brought in! We all enjoyed this amateur display - which will also bring in 'passenger talent'
in the final show (the FAREWELL SHOW)! Tonight's activities were on the SunDeck of No5 Deck.
14 September 2001 - Friday
I got up before my EARLY MORNING call and went for a very GOOD breakfast at 7am.. Our 'sittings' will be first
on alternate days - today being the start of the sequence! We were 'behind-time' (a mere THREE HOURS) and we
didn't arrive at the GIGHOU SHIP LOCK until 12noon!!
I was up on the forward decks at levels 3 & 5 to have descriptions of the locks, their dimensions and progress!! They
were nearly 30 metres deep and five or six boats entered the Ship Locks with us! Then we progressed, with commentary,
along the XILING GORGE, taking many photos and being one hour for the transit. On arrival at the "THREE GORGES
DAM SITE*, we handed our keys in - and got 'boarding passes' to re-enter "JEANNIE" later.
We soon took an on-shore excursion to MARVEL at the size of the PROJECT (I got in a 'No8 coach' there and
back). This part of the trip amounted to about 12 miles.The DAM (well EACH ONE - see below!) will generate nearly 800MW, and
between them they will supply 10% of China's needs - completion is due in 2009 AD..
There will be 26 sets of 'turbine generator units (14 in the LEFT HAND powerhouse - and a further 12 in the
RIGHT) each generating 700W, and totalling 18,200MW !! That is MASSIVE!! - the largest in the world, making
EVERY OTHER dam-project pale into insignificance by comparison.
However, the electricity is really ONLY a by-product of this project - as its MAIN purpose is FLOOD PREVENTION
downstream from the YANGTZE. It is being built in three stages and they are:-
Stage 1 (1993-1997)
Stage 2 (1998-2003)
Stage 3 (2003-2009)
Then, it will have a reservoir storage capacity of 39.3 Billion cubic metres and a normal pool level at 175 metres!!
A tasteful evening meal followed at 6pm and, at 6.55pm, I went out onto the, quite dark, DECK 3 and watched the
western section of XILING GORGE drift by. There were many stretches similar to Norway's FJORDS.
I got some refreshments from the onboard shop (things like Mentos and Diet Pepsi - totalling 35Y). Some NOISY
ANCHOR CLANKING at 22.30hrs had something to do with 40 metres (depth or distance??) and TV showed
some CHINESE MUSIC.
15 September 2001 - Saturday
I cat-napped most of the night, laying on TOP of the bed later in the night! I got up at 5.45am, before my 6am
'wake-up music' which got me ready for the day on time. I then went to the 'bar' on Deck3 for our 'complimemtary
coffee' - and, there, I managed to sit and relax quietly.
However, the serenity was shattered at 6.15am when the
staff 'drew' the curtains at the same time as an 'invasion' by a number of Germans and Americans, who then
occupied many of the other seats!!
I took my coffee and found a comfortable PLASTIC chair in Row2. Then, being to the 'front' in the BOAT down
this fabulous GORGE (the WU GORGE) - this was the 'prime reason' for having come all this way!! Its beauty was
already my reality! The commentary, and the visual observations, - and a comfortable chair - made this place HEAVEN
(well, better actually!)
After the end of this coffee-drinking heaven, we arrived at a spot for the DANING RIVER EXCURSION which would be
done in a smaller boat. We are covering the "Three Lesser Gorges" - and the Daning River is in the 'yet to be flooded region'
of this great PROJECT. We went up and down-stream , in often dangerously low waters and rapids. At various stages of
this 'diversion' a couple of us, on a rota basis, occupied the front seat of our craft (see photo) - whilst two local guys (one up
front with a punt-pole and one guy on the MOTOR-CONTROLS kept our momentum just above the critical point!! Some
passengers called out to their friends who were chosen to "get out and PUSH"!!
I alternated my occupation of the 'window seat' with Judy, so that we could each take our required photos. We
both took many. After a ride of about three and a half hours, we rejoined our main boat "Jeannie". Since we had
been well behind time, all the way along, we were instructed to use ANY SEAT in the restaurant when back - "as
soon as you like!"
I had a very good meal and company with my 'new table-sharers' ... and then it was back to my own room - and
its desk for my note-taking updates.
At 15.00 to 15.20 hrs, the OUTSIDE TEMPERATURES, even in the SHADE were very unbearably DANGEROUS!!
For entry into the QUTANG gorge, I went into the coolness of the Deck4 lounge for a Diet Coke and watch the
scenery go past. That cost another 15Y.
As we approached the Qutang Gorge, a large pleasure vessel was going in the opposite direction, and then slammed
into 'reverse thrust' directly in our path. It seemed inconsiderate, if not illegal, to make such a water-borne manoeuvre!!
Dithering before his re-takeoff, he further blocked our passage. We then attempted watching and then moving to the
RIGHT - and sure enough he weaved and out-accelerated to the RIGHT (in front of us). Being baulked again, we then
tried to the LEFT. This guy must have had a 'death-wish' because he then weaved LEFT, and he continued this all the way
down the Gorge 'obstructing' (in F1 terms!) - so where are the marshals to 'caution' him or throw him off the course??
After I got back to my own cabin, I did some relaxing (due to the HEAT) on the bed, some TV watching and some note-taking.
I had a good physical and mental REST from 5pm until 6.15pm and later did some English-speaking TV viewing (including
Chinese Games) until 18.50hrs.
Then I went to the 2nd-sitting of the evening dinner at about 7.30pm and had TWO good courses - with 'old surprises'. I had
chats with the other FIVE on my table (two couples + Judy!). Three of us chatted much about CYPRUS (one young woman
lived there somewhere - and one guy was there 'in the forces' long ago!) My visit was in the previous year.
The next objective was to get to see MAGGIE WANGs Chinese ZITHER (Guzhan) playing for her half-hour concert,
missing the bingo as much as humanly possible!! It was a curious instrument with distinctive 'chinese chords' (and dis-chords!)
and related sounds. Maggie, now 20years old, started playing it when 13years old. Afterwards, I saw her instrument in close-up,
each of the 22 (??) strings having its own movable 'fret'. Whether she moved the fret whilst playing (or before) I don't
quite remember.
Sometime after my return to the cabin, the first 'running of the anchor chain' indicated a vast depth to the anchorage!
In China, we don't tie up at docks!!
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