This is the 20 July 2004 edition of this page
CHAPTER SIX
ASWAN & ABU SIMBEL
On the morning of Friday,6th September 1996, I woke up at 4 a.m.. I was in Cairo - and today
I would fly to Aswan!! After such an early awakening and doing the usual 'constitutionals', I had
a drink of water and then attempted some relaxation - even 'sleep' was attempted. It worked,- and
I next awoke when my watch showed 7.05am..
I then had a bath (it is so HOT here) and did some more packing for the journey. At breakfast,
I chatted with those at my table (Wyn, Betty, Dave Morrison, John and his wife [Scottish!] and
'storming Norman' [London guy] and his younger wife). That long breakfast took until 9.30am,
after which I completed my packing for ASWAN!! I was now fully prepared for ASWAN - for
the Flight MS233 at 1.30pm. - but little did I know THEN about the cock-ups that were to
follow. Those details appear in another Chapter (it was worth it!)
I had my luggage ready at 10.10a.m.- also ready for the 10.30 a.m collection - and met the others
in my group (plus our guide Dave Morrison) before our departure at 11.30a.m. for Cairo Airport.
There, we witnessed and took part in the LARGEST COCK-UP (Chapter 4) in all our histories.
The sole credit for this COCK-UP rests with Egypt-Air!! Their staff at Cairo Airport were almost
unbelievable in their stupidity and pig-headedness.
Our take-off was NOT at 1.30pm, on the AIRBUS A-320, but due to its unserviceability, their
lies, mismanagement etc. etc., was at 6.33pm! This 5hours delay was recompensed with NO FOOD and
NO DRINK (so we were ALL well-annoyed - to say the least!)
Our aircraft's arrival at LUXOR was at 7.35pm, some passengers being off-loaded and others on-loaded
while others of us "sat tight"! The temperature outside was 42 degrees C and we took-off for ASWAN
at 8.00pm, touching-down there just after 8.30pm (very dark - and also 42 degC). Some of our English
passengers expected it to be their, misheard, 42degF and 'cold'. WRONG!!
Leaving the plane, we went down the steps 'into the night' with the temperature at 42 (degrees Centigrade) and a fair
breeze blowing - to the bus to the terminus - to meet each other and the SAGA reps. Then going out
of the terminus to a 'real coach', we headed off to the ISIS ISLAND hotel. We drove around ASWAN,
across the 'OLD DAM' (the low one!) to the Ferry taking us into the NILE and to the wonderfully-located
hotel in the MIDDLE! (We'll see the old and the NEW(the HIGH DAM) in the light at some better
time!) On the Island, some Egyptians, who were probably hotel-staff, transferred our cases to the
hotel - in much the same way as they had done from the coach to the Ferry.
The ferry journey was a longish one in DARKNESS - so we only saw the lights in the NILE BANKS
either side of the river. Then the lights appeared on the fabulous ISIS Island, an island devoted entirely to
the ISIS ISLAND HOTEL and its landing-stage and grounds. We climbed the steps to this Hotel, got a
welcome 'date-drink', then all sat down for a 3-course buffet meal with 'great choices' and standards. I sat
with Geoff and his wife!
I got my key to Room 457 but continued chatting with Geoff - and we were the LAST OUT. Up to
the room, I found my case waiting outside the door (Geoff is in Room 477). Because I could not see
the view in the dark, it made sense to close my curtains (they had only just been OPENED by the
bell-boy!!) - and pour glasses of Mineral Water (bought by me, on the way up, for FOUR (Egyptian)
pounds for a litre and a half!) I decided on 'bed' (A.S.A.P).
Saturday - 7th September 1996
7.10am saw me getting up, opening the curtains and getting a GORGEOUS view of the 'island',
the water (Nile), the opposite bank and the HILLS of the DESERT immediately behind. A couple
of 'early morning' guys were lazily punting along the Nile on this stretch!! Later, after writing the
report up to this point, other people were seen wandering the island. An 'English-type' breakfast,
together with a 'help-yourself' meal (after a short wander round the island) - was a good choice of
healthy items.
Today we are making our trip to the TEMPLE OF PHILAE, via coach and two boats. That is an
IMPRESSIVE place (isn't it ALL??) - but it is a very high TEMPERATURE. My aim, at all times,
was to obtain MOVING air (whatever its temperature), shade if possible and MINERAL waters.
That should maintain my sanity. The temperature was WELL OVER 42Deg Centigrade. Deep breathing
and a search for AIR prevented my 'passing-out' in Philae.
We returned to the Hotel via the AGHA KHAN 'Perfumes Palace', samples of which were placed
on our fingers (etc) after we accepted the drinks (mine, again, was a Coke or Pepsi!). Lunch was
just after our return and a 'change of trousers' (this time because the plastic zip had broken - good
job that I run with 'spares'!!)
Again there was a GREAT 'meal choice' - still buffet-style - and I concentrated on 'meat salad' for
the first course - followed by PINEAPPLE selections and more fruit (TWICE)!!
On returning to my room, I 'browsed' the TV Channels and chose the "GP Qualifying Session" live
from MONZA. Then I sorted my cases (and tidies them up!) in the 'cool' of the room. TV was chosen
because of the 'time-limits' for sun-exposure [we were informed that it ought to be 3-5 minutes in the
sun or 7-10 minutes in the shade!!]. Later walked at the searing high temperatures for a longer time,
- and covered more of OUR ISLAND without going on my customary LONG walks. However,
I always wore my sunhat when OUT of the hotel!!
Later, I returned to the "CNN International" for the Larry King Show - and they were discussing
the case of Susan McDougal with her attorney Bobby McDarrell. Following that, I went for an early
lunch at 6.15pm (because others were going to the Son et Lumiere at the PHILAE temple - an event
I had been recommended AGAINST [although I'd seen many such shows!])
After the others left for our (Son-et-lumiere) COACH, I chatted for 'ages' with a fellow-traveller, Maureen, as we
were the last two remaining in the RESTAURANT. We continued with a longer chat on a settee in the
foyer until 8.30pm. (this covering all sorts of subjects like hobbies, work, divorces etc!)
Then we each returned to our own separate rooms, on the same floor,and I SAMPLED the BALCONY
TEMPERATURE twice (Phew!!) and browsed TV channels up to Channel 51 !! Not bad for a primitive
(ex top-notch) Country. There being nothing interesting, I decided to get an 'early night' ready for the 3am
alarm in the morning for the excursion to ABU SIMBEL.
Sunday - 8th September 1996
The PHONE rang, at 2.55am, with a guy doing an EARLY CALL. Just what I've been waiting for! (No
kidding!!) So I got ready and took my things down to the foyer (after meeting others on the landing). We
all had cups of tea or coffee and then collected our individual 'breakfast boxes' as (right now) it was a bit
too early top eat!!
We are all very excited, being one of the HIGHLIGHTS of our tour. It's NOT every day that one gets the
excitement of going to ABU SIMBEL!! But today is THAT DAY for us. Probably every schoolboy's and
schoolgirls dream!! Whooppee. We are on the way.
First, we catch the hotel's boat to the coach-point. Every coach goes from Aswan at the exact SAME time -
for the simple reason that the temperatures will be SO HIGH during the day that an isolated coach having a
break-down risks losing ALL its passengers due to dehydration. We worked on the same principle as the
old WAGON TRAIN (even with modern-day coaches) - so that the passengers in any coach with such a misfortunate
circumstance can be spread around ALL those in the 'TRAIN'!
Thus we ALL left the ASWAN Coach departure point for ABU SIMBEL at 4.15am.. All coaches were
'counted out' at the checkpoint and would be 'counted IN' on our arrival THREE HOURS later. So this
'convoy' makes its way over the 180miles over the desert sands (almost a road now!) at a constant 60mph..
Good fun! Ain't it??
We would have three hours there - then motor the three hours back. We chose THIS way in preference to the
EGYPT-AIR option!! That driver, underpaid by our standards, certainly earned his TIPS from us that these
people really rely on. I'm NOT a tip-addict, but I make exceptions for guys like that!
We crossed the "Old Aswan Dam" (now called the 'Aswan Bridge') all 'in line' to the checkpoint where "the Road
Ends and the DESERT Begins!" We went at HIGH SPEED across the DESERT ROAD, only with our HEADLIGHTS
to 'go on'.
As well as a 'packed breakfast' most of us took pillows for resting and/or sleep. Personally, this trip was so UNUSUAL
that there was 'no way' that I was attempting to go to sleep!! Soon, another checkpoint appeared - but after that, there were NONE
until the far end! It was nice and cool inside the coach, although it was about 40 degrees Celsius outside! We stopped to see
the SUNRISE over the desert to our left. THAT was SO IMPRESSIVE, the sun rising verically upwards. One mustn't blink
and one HAS to have the CAMERA ready for the task (be it 'stills' or 'cine'!)
I took a few in a few seconds with some of our 'party' - and by 6.45 am, it was ALL OVER as the sun was 'on its way'
into deep space!! We arrived at about 7.00 am at the GREAT and SMALL Temples ( to RAMESSES II and Queen
Nefartari respectively) - my '36 shot 35mm film' ending with its 'Number 25' outside the Great Temple - after I had
taken a few photos!! Oh dear!!!