++ MADNESS IN EGYPT ++

This is the 10 February 2004 edition of this page

On this day, I awoke at 2.10am in a pool of sweat. The temperature-control and the air-conditionning had broken down!

I phoned 'the desk' at 3am to report the rapidly rising temperature. No one - or their actions - cured it - but when I re-awoke at 6.15am, the temperature was 'falling nicely'. I completed my packing by 7.10am as, today, I join the NILE's RIVER BOAT. Both my 'main case' and the 'cabin baggage' were completed and the 'main' one was placed outside my door.

Breakfast followed at 7.15 and continued until 8.10am.. This was cool and refreshing and in good company.

I left at 9.00am to catch the FELUCCA from the hotel island - and this wee craft made its way upwind down the Nile (Northwards), tacking all the time for the best part of an hour and three-quarters. With its sail down, it drifted to a landing stage where we caught our 'carriage-ride' through the BAZAAR AREA of ASWAN. My guide, Dave Morrison, shared my carriage - with the driver always looking at us (the little boy doing likewise!)

Then another little boy (his brother) joined him - and they were very 'chatty' little lads!! The 'driver' is not their 'papa'. Dave gave a small 'note' (cash) to each boy - and NONE to the begging driver and NONE to the horse. As Dave explained, SAGA has already paid the driver TWICE over!! These Egyptian begging practices could well RUIN romantic holidays with a close partner, but for me it was just another bothersome episode in a self-educational exploration! I certainly learned MORE each day!

Then I was transferred to the multiply-parked M/S NILE EMERALD (where we were all welcomed by a drink), chatted with fellow travellers and collected a form with a cabin number - which then told me which keys I needed for my accommodation. I went to collect the key for Cabin 227. In that cabin, I did my unpacking, note-taking and paperwork - and then 'acquired' some essential mineral-water (just 'signed for' - no payment!)

Then I got myself and my cabin ready for lunch which would be at 1pm.. This turned out to be another beautiful two-course (only!) lunch plus 'pepsi' and 'wines'. Several of us had long chats before leaving the restaurant - and then I prepared myself for the trip to the ASWAN HIGH DAM and some UNFINISHED OBELISKS!!

I took photos of each of these places, then had some coffee, biscuits and cake back on the boat - chatting with Geoff about athletics until 6.20pm. Then it was back to the cabin for notes, water and a rest before the evening meal at 8pm.. That was a good (but small) meal with drinks in the restaurant with friends (from Wales and Lancashire). After the meal we had a LONG chat before leaving the restaurant with them.

Later, I found the Welsh Couple, a friend and Dave Morrison on seats in the lounge having chats - so I joined them! I interrupted this chat with a necessary visit for the purchase of more mineral water and then a visit 'on deck' (level 3) for viewing the 'less than exciting' firework display.

We left this 'discussion group' at about 11pm and returned to our individual cabins. I went to bed for the night!!

Tuesday 10th Sept 1996

The great CLANKING of chains etc indicated the imminent segregation of the boats from our 'parked' positions. At about 5.25am. we powered our separate engines and headed off downstream - stopping at just after 5.30am by a clump of weeds (or a small island?) growing on the NILE. Although it was VERY DARK - there were lots of lights on the banks - and the crescent moon, close to a bright nearby planet, on the starboard side of the boat beamed down at me, through my window .

We may have been 'beached' at a shallow point - or we may have anchored - but by 6am we were on our way downstream again!!

We passed the M/S NILE CROCODILE at 7.02am as we made our way along, making other observations through the cabin window with its excellent fore-position! This cabin also has an excellent "shower environment", in the en-suite provision, being the best I've had for years! My mind wanders to pondering whether the instant short-duration apparent-diarrhoea is a start of some gippy-tummy!!??

When I completed drying and dressing, I made a quick visit to the toilet, when my 'innards' exploded from my rear-end in quite the most impressive fashion for years!! I hope that this does not become embarrassing later - when I need food!

My breakfast was OK (although the cheese was very salty!) - with mainly a continental-style presentation. Our boat is still moving 'downstream' towards KOM OMBO, but it 'tied up' before the end of breakfast time. I got my water-supplies for the morning visit - and notice a large donkey (or was it a low camel or a horse) on a 'lead' from a boat having its swim in the NILE!! Unusual sights around here!!! It was then lead to a nearby bank for 'drying out' whilst standing around!

At 9.30 am, I went out for a walk to visit the KOM OMBO Temple, a VERY HOT place with nice winds at the 'TIMER' which Nabil gave us some information on. He was very good. This is a very well-preserved EARLY Temple, with still some remains of the original columns. There were also some mummified sacred crocodiles and the famous NILOMETER. After this visit the boat 'sailed' North from 10.30am., chats with friends enroute then resuming - followed by the purchase of more and more fluids (water, Pepsi-cola, 7-up etc).

I spent a little while with DAVE finalising my "lost spectacles" report. Then I watched people and animals on the West Bank of the Nile from my cabin window, with the nice air-conditionned breeze wafting about the room. [It is wiser not to open such windows - from the health and SECURITY viewpoints.] People, animals, banana trees, date palms and birds - all produced a varied close-scenery from the desert sand and rocks beyond!! Sometimes, there were man-made caves and dwellings right down to the water's edge. I got the impression that there were NO current occupiers!!

Next, I split my time between:-
(a) visiting the KOM OMBO Temple
(b) having lunch
(c) writing up my notes
(d) viewing miscellaneous scenery, from my own cabin and the top deck

Essentially, the lunch was at 1pm - and I took TWO lots (one salad and one cooked!) - enjoying both which were very nice! My 'afters' comprised THREE lots (7-Up, Melon and Mango) and I indulged in chats with Geoff and his wife, Dave, Win and Betty before leaving the restaurant at about 2.40pm..

At 3.30pm, our carriages departed for the EDFU TEMPLE and we had a stop in the bazaar area. EDFU is very well preserved. NABIL gave us descriptions (as always) - his degree in EGYPTOLOGY helps! The Temple was very IMPRESSIVE inside - and, at a stall on the outside, there, I bought a FUJI 35mm film (36exp) as my supply is nearly OUT. Whilst I normally get my free-film through TRUPRINT, this one cost me 15 egyptian pounds (approx £3 sterling!)

Then it was 'back to the boat'! I got NO 'complimentary coffee' on my return today - largely due to the fact that the 'happy hour' was certainly LESS than an hour - more like 30 minutes! I couldn't get ANY drink at HALF- PRICE. I couldn't even get ANY (especially 'diet drinks') at ANY PRICE - other than a SPECIFIED COCKTAIL!! When the bar-manager was free (finished his 'round') he said that another staff-member could sell me a PEPSI - but not until then!

So the "Happy Hour" is not for the customers, or even the staff,- but purely for the sponsors of that particular cocktail. It was really a massive CON - trick!! It was a total annoyance and people were saying "I'm not bothering, - where is everyone?" Still, there was an intriguing sight through the cabin window of deck-hands manoeuvring us into the giant ESNA lock.

Later we moored, with other boats, further along the East Bank for or overnight stay.

-- Bedtime, Roy -- Good Night!--

Wednesday 11th Sept 1996

This morning, I heard CLANKING CHAINS and 'engine revving' at 5.15 am - and those raised me from slumber. Then I read my own INTERNET extracts obtained for Luxor and Karnak gen. 'Engine revving' provided a continuum of sound until it forced me OUT of bed at 5.55am - when I gazed through the cabin window and saw that we were making our way down the NILE - with another boat ahead!

Back in bed, still NOT dressed at 6.05am I could see details of the PALMS close by on the West Bank - the small amount of light helping now! There was further clanking at 7.05am (men cleaning the decks?) and the boat was heading into the Sun, downstream on the Nile. Not knowing the time for breakfast (or anything else today!) I strolled around the boat (meeting no-one) whilst we were MOORED at LUXOR. At 7.30am, we could get breakfast and I found that WYN was already there!! However, it HAD started at 7am - and everyone else came at 8am!!

I got more helpings of my chosen 'continental' breakfast because there was SO MUCH time. After that, I just wandered around, buying more mineral water and taking photos. In fact, I finished reel number 176 and loaded the slower FUJI film that I bought near the EDFU TEMPLE yesterday (that will be designated as No 177). Our Karnak and Luxor Temple tours will start at 10am before the temperature RISES too much.

The refreshing mineral waters are branded "Baraka" and come in 0.75 and 1.5 litre sizes!

David has to do some organisational work in LUXOR etc, so NABIL gives us a complete 'rundown' of the details and guide-duties at KARNAK and LUXOR temples. Our 'numbers' are decreasing ALL the time; we are now down to the 'final-15' (out of about 40!) for the Luxor Temple. [Such is the widespread effect of our 'Gyppy Tummy'!!]

Karnak's area, colomn sizes, their numbers etc are all STUPENDOUS. Nabil says that the temperature, here, is 44deg Centigrade - 'water and hats' being essential. The coach is past the boat between the Karnak and Luxor Temples, so there was time for some members to return to it (the 'base') to retrieve their supplies!!

I will leave the boat tomorrow morning on my way to the VALLEY OF THE QUEENS -- and KINGS!! Water and hats will be even more essential at those places. As my small bottle was emptied in this morning's visit, perhaps the 'KINGS' and 'QUEENS' visits require a larger bottle to SURVIVE. (Even today, the water was HOT when finished before our lunchtime return!)

Afternoon relaxation - mainly in my air-conditionned cabin - with my paperwork, was indulged in. I even had excursions from this cabin to the 'cool' shaded deck at 45degs C (in the shade - I daren't go for the sun!). I returned to my cabin to pass the time until the 5pm 'teatime'.

At 4.45pm, I went up on deck (42deg in shade!) ready for the 5pm cup of coffee and biscuits (which I had TWICE). It was an unusually primitive way of DIY coffee-making! I got involved in chatting with a number of friends during that, - namely Jean (Brian's wife), Molly, Marjory, John and various others. We continued until 6.05pm..

I then returned to my cabin, for resting in the drowsy state - using the facilities there to listen to Egyptian Music and other selections. It was there that I thought of the title "Madness in Egypt" for the title of this particular travelogue.

A good evening meal followed (although some others didn't agree with that assessment!) and chatting continued with Marjory, Molly, Jean, Brian and another couple. I, later, paid up my 'mess bill', getting insufficient 'change' which was later rectified to the nearest 'Egyptian Pound'!!

BELLY DANCING SHOW

Now I was 'early' (FIRST - would you believe?!) in the LOUNGE BAR ready for this 'show'. 20 minutes later, a GUY in a series of skirts did some rapid rotations (about 50RPM!) for 10 minutes without falling over or anything untoward happening to him. This bloke was the famous "whirlling dervish" act to 'warm-up' the show, after which there was a short break and a beautful BELLY DANCER emerged, did a short solo spell before trying to get any guys or women from the audience to join her!!

She tried unsuccessfully with a number of German's, who didn't want to get involved! Then she tried with a group of Japanese guys and girls who gave her a similar response. Next she tried to get ME involved!! After a short mock-protest, I was UP there (she's too good to miss!!)

I was in my Blue Country & Western shirt PLUS shorts that I'd bought from the WWF (the 'wildlife' people, not the wrestlers!) and she quickly got me into her 'routine'!! Not surprisingly, my own variation was of a C&W nature - but it included several 'dances' together, face-to-face, face-to-boobs, arm-in-arm, hip-bumps etc, etc..

This young lady lifted my shirt up (for reasons best known to herself!) and took my glasses (i.e. Geoff's) off and put on her own eyes. They looked better there anyway! She had a fabulous smile on her face - but, unfortunately, I was unable to record this with a photograph. Pity I couldn't - especially for those who were not at his show!!!

We parted with very friendly 'waves' as she exitted her cabaret spot. Molly and Betty, from our group, had also been selected for a short episode in her 'slot'. It was back to my own cabin at about 10.40pm to write up my notes and ponder about preparations for tomorrow.

So, for me, it was BED to DREAM about this beautiful sexy dancer and her beautiful body, complete with her 'cheeky' face. Ain't life tough!! Sweet dreams lad!

Thursday 12th Sept 1996

The alarm was at 5.45am and was for the breakfast at 6.00am. I put my case out for 'moving'. Later, I disembarked from the boat and walked down the Nile to the Ferry which I caught to theWest Bank. The rising temperatures could be felt so easily.

I caught the coach to take us to some spots in the VALLEY OF THE QUEENS (West Bank is 'Land of the Dead' as opposed to the 'East Bank' which is the 'Land of the Living'!!)

All sorts of coaches were doing all sorts of tours on the West Bank - including "Noble Tours" (not Richard's?). On the way to 'Queens', we saw Howard Carter's base used during his expeditions and searches. Further on, there was 'Lord Caernavon's place also! The whole of the West Bank was covered with Burial Chambers and Tombs, - which had been excavated by hand and small tools.There was a wide extent of them. Excavations could only be done in the winter months because of the temperatures.

I went into some 'Queen' tombs and then our coach progressed to the 'Valley of the Kings'. This looks a deadly-dead inhospitable place, - even more holes here, these having been re-capped until the next winter's session! Some were, however, 'open' - and we went into THREE of them. It was hellishly steep and NABIL TAVFIK still gave us descriptions either before (e.g "Oliver-Abdul-Gurna" at Queens) or during (as in the three 'Kings' sites). This was 'quite an experience' - and not as "hellish" as expected [maybe we are getting acclimatised to this!!!]

On the way back from 'KINGS' to the ferry we visited one of my favourites, the Colossus of Memnon, and then the BOAT TRIP itself and few photos!! We called at a Cafe-place for toilets on the way and the coach recollected us on the return from 'Kings'. It took us back to the ferry which was to take us directly into the Nile-side garden of the ISIS HOTEL LUXOR. (This was a BIG Hotel, with a small 'drinks welcome', which was quickly forgotten!! Rumours were that "we should check again in a few hours!!")

Anyhow, we indulged in idle chats before dinner - and then got our room-keys from Dave. My 'lift' wasn't in the specified place, didn't work and floor-level-two didn't contain my 292 room!! THAT is in another building across the seeringly-hot hotel grounds and paths. A bell-boy picked me up and led me to the room, hanging around annoyingly for his 'bad-service-tip'. This is a place that I'll be VERY PLEASED to leave.

I found Dave Morrison when I ventured back to the "main building" somewhat later. Dave didn't get the rooms that he'd asked for - and, clearly, Molly and Marjories are in my separate LARGE building. It is quite a COMPLEX on this site! It is SO HOT outside (45deg - 50deg C) that 3 minutes without a hat is about the maximum, - assuming that the breathing and heart don't stop before then!!

I decided to keep to my own room and try for 10deg to 13deg with the air-conditionning control. It seemed effective, but then there were troubles with the toilet, the roll-holder, the 'frig', my room key and the 'settings'! However, it's better than 'outdoors'! A few minutes ago, only 4 seconds on my partly shaded balcony were enough to nearly 'cook' me, - so I returned to the comparatively cooler interior of Room 292.

Some guys knocked on the door for
(a) towels - late delivery
(b) the SAGA fruit bowl (late)
(c) their check on the 'frig' problem.

Then I watched a bit of "CNN International" and also "Eurosports" on TV. I won't 'unpack' because I'm "off" tomorrow for CAIRO. [Oh No!! not Egypt-Air again!!??] This 'cool hotel' felt VERY HOT outside my room as I investigated the corridor & stairs for the 'emergency exit' - as per the diagram on the door!

I spent a fair bit of time in the evening writing, TV watching and eating from the fruit bowl - for attempted COOLNESS!

Then I wandered out of my sub-set of the hotel, meeting two groups who were familiar to me - and they were indulging in (a) shopping and (b) sun-worshipping! In found a lot in common with the former group (you've gotta believe it!) as they complained about the money-grabbing practices of their 'servers'.

Then it was "back to the cooler areas" for me (you can't beat it!) - and I indulged in 'CNN International' and 'EuroSport'. The evning meal was the FAREWELL DINNER, with speeches by Dave Morrison and a few guests and questioners. There were 'presentations' to NABIL and DAVID and I had chats with friends at the end of my table. Friendly farewells and goodnights were exchanged, one of my friend's wives making her VERY pleasant farewell kiss to me.

Tomorrow is FRIDAY the 13th and will be continued (good luck and VERY BAD!) in the following chapter!

Or let's return to Egyptian index for reorientation.
.. or read the trip plan from the 1996 story in its Egypt Notes.
Return to Roy's home page for full list of books, travelogues and other writings either finished or under preparation.

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