** HEBRIDES (continued)**
**May 2001 **
This is the 5 March 2004 edition of this page.
15th May 2001 (Tuesday)
I decided quite early (like yesterday!) to go to LEVERBOROUGH on a 'return' or round-trip. Whilst chatting in
the TARBERT waiting room with a walking 'traveller' from the London area (judged by his accent!), I found the
surprising fact that he 'hates towns' and 'loves the countryside'. I had chatted with a Nottingham-based girl
cyclist in the breakfast room at FLORA's during our morning meal. She, too, obviously loves THIS countryside!
On the trip to LEVERBOROUGH, the very friendly driver stopped at many places, on the WEST coast route,
allowing the three of us ( walking traveller + myself + Canadian girl from Calgary) many photo-opportunities. I
chatted with the Canadian girl about our "West Coast of Canada" experiences. At one of our stops en-route to
Leverborough the Canadian girl had got her feet sandy and WET, so the driver got some tissues to help her
before re-entry to the bus! What a lovely atmosphere up here! What friendliness!!
We all stopped, before the end of the route, at RODEL - for toilets and St Clements Church (apparently only
used three times per year) visit. After getting back on the coach, the driver had repeated the offers for my
return on the bus W13 (the East Coast route) - and I took it. It was a fabulous journey, very rocky, and
Icelandic in style on the ride back to TARBERT. Todays rides had totalled only 42 miles (with a return fare
of £3.35) and, at Tarbert, I indulged in a meal for the princely sum of £4.30! Then I listened to some FOLK MUSIC on
Radio2 FM (back in my room), followed by some 'Shows & Film Music' from Carl Davis.
This all proceeded whilst packing and organising for tomorrow's trip to SKYE!
16th May 2001 (Wednesday)
I had my 'breakfast chats' with Jenny, from the Nottinghamshire area, plus Anita and
John from Alderley Edge. Today, it is pouring with RAIN for a change. After completing my
packing (which I'd started last night), I walked with my umbrella erected to the FERRY
TERMINAL to buy a ticket (£8.50 for the 16.00hrs sailing to UIG - on SKYE).
Jenny and her friends are here - and are cycling to Stornaway! I filled in a Ferry Registration
Form before returning to Flora's for a quiet 'sit-down' and updated my notes and plans!
Then, with my cases, I went to FIRST FRUITS (a handy shop/restaurant in Tarbert) and laid
my plans for a STEAK & KIDNEY lunch (for £7) before leaving in John's car for the FERRY's
Waiting Room. This closed between 1pm & 2pm (for its lunch?) so I went into the Coach Waiting Room
to catch up with my note-writing!! I soon got involved in chats with an 'Aussi' woman who was attempting
to cover (albeit unsuccessfully) the Isles of Harris & Lewis in a day!! The dates & times are preventing her
from doing this!! So we changed the subject and mutually discussed the NULLABOR Plain!!
The ferry arrived at 15.35hrs and I got on board at about 15.42hrs after the last passengers had come
down the gangway! This saved the confusion - like what happened last Thursday!! The Captain's announcements
spoke of 'good weather and conditions' for the whole way. There was, however, 100% cloud-cover
for the whole of the day. On departure, it was good to look at 'Flora's Place' as we looked back at the bay.
The sea was virtually flat through the LITTLE MINCH, which made for a very comfortable crossing
(just 25 miles in that boat!). As we approached SKYE, there were rainy skies overland there.
We pulled into UIG HARBOUR exactly at 17.35, our expected time-of-arrival! On de-boating, the coach-
driver wished to clean it first. I had to walk to the CAL-MAC offices 'off the pier'. Whilst waiting for the driver to
clean the bus, a military platoon was about to 'invade the OUTER HEBRIDES'. What they were about to do,
really, was to partake in 'trials' at the BENBECULA Rocket Range!!
My bus-trip to PORTREE (on Skye - about 15 miles) went pleasantly enough. Once at their bus-station, I tried
to ring my hosts Peter & Sandra (they were to collect me by their car) - but found that the phone wouldn't take my coins.
After many unsuccessful attempts at this exercise, I told a wating girl what I was trying to do, - saying I might as well
walk there!!
I showed her a colour photo (from the web) of the house that I wished to reach. She said "I know that place; it's
my Mum's!" She turned out to be Sandra's daughter - so she and her friend led me there. They were a very friendly
family, particularly SANDRA - and she expressed delight at how her web-photos had turned out!!
17th May 2001 (Thursday)
Nice to have an 'early' breakfast (8.00am) at Sandra's - compared with the 8.30a.m at TARBERT - and we chatted
over a wide range of fried and non-fried options. We also chatted about THRUST SSC and its practices (with both
Peter and Sandra). Peter was still in plaster-casts after his car-accident en-route to their pre-season relaxation
venue. With Sandra's friendliness, we had a quick kiss and slow cuddle, There is so much mutual respect.
I then took an early walk from their house to get to the PORTREE bus-station for catching thr 916 for its journey
to FORT WILLIAM. This was a very nice journey - although overcast and rainy - but things have obviously deteriorated
since passing 'on the way up' on 10th May!!
Arriving at FORT WILLIAM in 3 hours (at 13.16hrs), there was a five-hour wait for the connection - the bus to OBAN
(which only has an hour and a half journey!) I spent the FIVE HOURS in Fort William visiting Safeways and its
restaurant (for food), the Post Office for a further £100 withdrawal and using the NEVIS CENTRE (also for its
left-luggage facility).
At OBAN station, being as it's a bit hilly, I decided to catch a taxi up to Ann Kynock's place, getting there in 5minutes
at 20.00hrs.
I stayed in my room in the evening - aided by the marvellous CHARLES KENNEDY performance with a LIVE
audience and a very wide range of topics. Brilliant!!! As I had travelled across from SKYE, every POSTER was
for Kennedy. Well, it is HIS constituency!! In Fort William, virtually every POSTER was for their woman Lib-Dem
candidate, by name of KENYON(?), but there was an SNP presence too. Not large - but there!
18th May 2001 (Friday)
I shared breakfast-time with a bloke from BRIGHTON and a young FRENCH couple from PARIS. I walked down
to OBAN's 'front' via the one-way DUNERAGGEN road, finding a collection of tour-sellers for STAFFA, a place that
I had 'missed out' on, both as a youngster and later as a young married man! NOW, as a pensionner, I was determined
NOT to miss this fabulous place!!
Eventually, I found the GORDON GRANT (replacement - temporary?) office in a Portakabin near the CALMAC HQ
on the pier. There, I bought tickets for tomorrow's THREE ISLES EXCURSION (via Calmac's ferry to MULL, then via
a private coach through that island to FIONNPHORT - and then via a ferry to IONA after visiting STAFFA for
FINGAL's CAVE.). The whole cost, paid today, was £32 for the 'package' (as a pensionner, this didn't worry me -
although 'cost' in my younger days did prove a barrier!) I just hoped that tomorrow's weather is better than today's
variability!!
I walked up the hill to McCAIG's TOWER, finding it only about 100 yards from Mrs Kynock's ARDURA guest-
house.
I don't remember visiting this 'Folly' either in the 50's or 60's!! I would cover its internal structure at least
THREE times during this 'day of re-discovery'! Also, I don't recognise any details of OBAN - just a vague impression
around the harbour.
Around 'middayish'. I walked to town and back for more exploring and a HAGGIS lunch (the second this week!) in
the town centre! Whilst down there, I checked on where the bus to GLASGOW leaves on Sunday - and its
timetable. (It departs at 12.45, arriving Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station at 15.45). Now, at 16.10hrs, the Breakfast
Room/Lounge shows much sunlight and quite a bit of cloud. I watched some TV in te late-afternoon and early evening.
19th May 2001 (Saturday)
This morning, I shared chats with a FRENCH couple (the same as yesterday!) and an ENGLISH
lady on 'travel comparisons'. After breakfast, I started a walk down steps towards the town to join
CAL MAC's waiting queue on the pier.
Boarding started at 10.25am for a 10.35 am takeoff. I'm on their THREE ISLES EXCURSION, as
described yesterday - and the first 'leg' was 11miles by the CalMac boat to CRAIGNME. The next
leg was by the BOWMAN's BUS from the East side of MULL to the West of MULL, the weather
improving all the way on this 27 mile leg! That leg ended at FIONNPHORT.
Then I took the Ferry (by GRANT) the six miles across to STAFFA - and, there, clambered over the rocks,
eventually arriving at FINGAL's CAVE.
I took several photos (and an American guy also took one
with my camera!) while we all wandered around this MAGICAL place that I'd missed too many times
before.
Following this visit we caught the GORDON GRANT boat (ferry) for another 6 miles to the ISLE of IONA,
and, there, I just mooched around for an hour covered the whole of the Island's intriguing scenery. That walk
was followed by a mile on a Cal-Mac ferry back to MULL.
My highlights for today were the PHOTOGRAPHY on STAFFA (a long-awaited dream!!), climbing over its
rocks (from our Landing Stage) right into FINGAL'S CAVE!! I had been wanting to do that since being in
OBAN back in 1956 with my parents, and also since CAMPING at BENDERLOCH in the 1960's.
20th May 2001 (Sunday)
During a chat at breakfast, having finished the packing BEFORE breakfast, I heard that the guy from BRIGHTON
leaves here tomorrow! He would spend that night in LONDON before going home. I told him my plans and
experiences too!
Back in my room, I made final preparations for 'vacating' it and watched the David Frost interviews of Norman
Tebbit, Shirley Williams and Frank Dobson (well, the General Election is getting close!!) Later, I took my paperwork
into the lounge and also paid Mrs Kynock the 'balance' for the three night's stay. Mr Kynock was very kind and took
me to the bus station in his car.
There, I spent time in the CALMAC TERMINAL (it's co-located!) reading on various trips. When the 976 for
GLASGOW arrived at the stop in OBAN, several of us were sitting on seats around the place. I was the first to
see it appear, and, giving my case to the driver, I got into the FRONT SEAT !(that's unusual for me!)
The driver appeared to have problems with his 'close-vision' and also his 'joints', but he drove the bus/coach well
to GLASGOW via Dalmally, Inverary, Arrochar and Tarbet (yes, - another one!!)
Having done 101 miles on the coach today, I arrived at the BUCHANAN STREET Bus Station and caught a
taxi (costing £3.20) to the AMADEUS Guest House for my night's stay. I had found Vivienne's place on the
internet and had an exchange of EMails to fix this up. I settled into a different room, here, than I had occupied
on the way northwards earlier.
On the GREAT WESTERN ROAD I found an Italian Cafe (Il Bambini?) and launched my taste-buds into a
marvellous (best ever) Vegetable Lesange. That, plus coffee, cost only £5.45 - and back in the Amadeus (yes,
Viv is a MOZART fan!) Viv booked my taxi for tomorrow's return. I paid the balance for my stay here and got
the 'handyman' to replace the bulb for my main light. I could then see OK to continue my note-writing.
After adjusting the digital-radio-alarm (on Radio2 FM!) I could listen to the radio this evening and set the alarm for
6.30am tomorrow. I also watched some ATHLETICS on BBC2 TV (mainly for the British Team) and CHARLIE
DYMOCK and the Garden Team (in a Cambridge garden 'make-over').
I didn't unpack in the evening more than was necessary - as I'd be back home in MALVERN tomorrow!!
21 May 2001 (Monday)
I awoke before the 6.29am alarm (actually at 5.50am), then toiletted and returned to bed. My leisurely
packing continued and I breakfasted on Table6 (since my room number is No6!). There were a few
others there, and we enjoyed Vivienne's presence.The taxi (for £3.20) took me the 1.5 miles, at 8.15am,
to the coach station (BUCHANAN STREET) - and I soon boarded the BIRMINGHAM coach (labelled
BOURNEMOUTH!) with its very 'officious' driver with his own interpretation of the NATIONAL EXPRESS
rules re handbaggage!!
I thought "How can a GUY with the flowing locks of a YOUNG GIRL be such an OLD WOMAN??" However,
he soon announced (or was it a recording?) that drinks, soups, chocolates (but no sandwiches) would soon be
available. When the time came, I got a nice HOT chicken soup, taking great care with its lid!
En-route to BIRMINGHAM, we stopped for passengers to alight at HAMILTON, CARLISLE & PENRITH and
also for a 'driver-swapover' at a Lancastrian Service Area - but NOWHERE for refreshments and toilets!!
Signposts to Tatton Park were close to the KNUTSFORD Service Area. Later, in three subliminal appearances, I
saw JODRELL BANK TELESCOPE (it gets more difficult each year with the tree growth!) [I was thwarted from
seeing it, on going northwards on 9th May, by interference from a smoking Scotsman!]
I arrived in DIGBETH coach station in Birmingham 'on time' at 14.15hrs after the 326 miles from GLASGOW. There,
I purchased a 'cheese & onion pastie' before catching the 321 coach to MALVERN (labelled ABERDARE!). Having got off
this final Nat Express coach at the Pioneer Store in Malvern Link, I then boarded my local bus (a number 42) for
the final 2.3 miles home. This fortnight in the SCOTTISH ISLANDS was over!!
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