++ ICELANDIC DREAMS ++

This is the 15 Jan 2002 edition of this page

	        THE VISCIOUS HEKLA 

----Chapter Six----

 ICELAND - 1994

The morning dawned brightly and, after breakfast, I travelled westwards from Kirk...jarkluster and took a number (about half a dozen) of photos in the LAVAFIELD near Eldhraan. Being older lava, it was moss- covered to about a depth of three inches (done by a pokey-finger test!!) indicating that it had been here some time! There was obviously an appreciable amount of moisture below this layer - as my finger established! Actually that lava's flow was some 200 years previously.

We heard that Katla is 'overdue' now - maybe because of activity from the Westmann Islands. Moving on to a BLACK sandy beach we saw quite a few cormorants and puffins in and on the cliffs. Moving further on to the Edda Hotel near Skogafoss for lunch, I later visited a recommended [old man's] collection which made up a Folk Museum. He had many items, even a collection of old boats, old houses - and, what's more, he entertained us by singing and playing his organ in the largest 'old house'. Quite a character and personality!

Moving on, - I then progressed to the Seljalandfoss, another attractive waterfall, for a number of photos (one of which included a spray-induced rainbow) - heading off towards HEKLA. My next stop was a brief one at HELLA which was - and still is, the site of their National Horse Show. It was ON at the time - and is all 'well and good' if you're 'into horses' but I'm not!! We have enough of that locally, back home in Malvern, with the THREE COUNTIES SHOW!!

So then we went off, on the way, to see HEKLA (which has been comparatively active this century!!). We did not get very close!! This did not look a formidable volcano (even though it was), - more like an ordinary mountain with its head in the clouds! Not only was the area uninhabited, - but it was uninhabitable!! Such is the ferocity of its reputation and activities!

We used some of the island's internal roads and tracks to get to a Power Station (of the underground hydroelectric variety) and noticed some of the utter devastation around HEKLA. There were many square miles of formidable lava fields. Its last eruption before our arrival was in 1991!!

Then I went onto the Edda Hotel (an ex domestic-service school), at Langarvatn, for one night. My room overlooked the lake and some hot-springs. For a relaxing exploration, I took an evening walk to them after the evening meal.

The following morning's trip took me from Landarvatn to GULLFOSS, which is Iceland's (and possibly the World's) most beautiful Waterfall. I took many shots from my 35mm camera - and walked extensively about the 'FALL and its RAVINE'S.


Passing on from there, I then motored South to the GEYSIR area to relook at its large collection of Geysirs - of which STROKKUR is still the best - but nothing like a 'fountain' -
these things produce 'sudden eruptions' of gas and water!! One gets a slight pre-warning with large bubbles below the surface - before it 'explodes'. There were over TEN GEYSIRS in the area, all different, some warm, some hot, some very HOT - but I didn't see any of the active mud-pools!

The best Geological features were the fault-lines of the mid-Atlantic ridge at Thingvellir. I crossed and walked down these faultlines between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The American plate is somewhat more elevated than its Eurasian counterpart. The following photo shows this!!

Apart from the MAIN fault which is clearly visible, there are a number of minor faults in the area, also relatively easily seen! One of these includes the fault which contains a VERY DEEP 'wishing well' in which coins drop to a GREAT DEPTH!!
From there, by fjordside, with beautiful views, we progressed via an old whaling station for an overnight hotel in AKRANES. Near there, the meal was in a restaurant called "On the Rocks". It included my first ever CAVIAR in the 'starters'. Have had many since - but it is not a great taste. I've always been a soft-roe person with no liking fo hard-roe!! In the evening, I went for a small exploratory walk around AKRANES - and did several more during the following morning (1 July 1994). I felt that the coloured walls and metal-houses were a sight to be seen. During that morning at the FISHMARKET, I met some Australians and marvelled at the Ling, Monkfish, Lusk and Cod (salted, from Spain) that were on display. I thought that the Monkfish were displayed like 'glove-puppets, - but my Brazilian friend called them 'Muppets'.
An old FOLK MUSEUM in Akranes brought back some memories of some old things at home : like my old SEXTANT, my old TYPEWRITER, my old MANGLE which reminded me of possessions in my OLD HOUSE. However, these exhibits differed from my collection is that these were ALL wooden!!

Meanwhile, it was back to AKRANES to the "On the Rocks" for lunch followed by a trip round the roads to BORGANES - which has the biggest HOT SPRINGS in Europe (near Borganes), giving them a pipeline to AKRANES, pumping 180litres/sec at 97deg(C). That's a lot of very hot water!!! I wandered around the complex (a bit privitive and uncomplicated) and found that they had NO BROCHURES describing the place.

There were various 'fosses' (i.e waterfalls) emerging from midway up and down the ravine. Notably, there was Bornefoss. On the way back to Reykjavik via the 'hills', there was a hissing noise from underneath the coach, indicating a PROBLEM.

The driver stopped but could NOT raise assistance via his radio (in 'Radio Shadow' in the hills and valleys) so we ALL got out while he investigated the matter himself! Stopping passing the (very few) passing motorists wasn't at all successful here in this isolated spot. It WAS NOT a puncture but something more serious (like a fractured hydraulic pipe!!) - so I decided to climb a nearby hill and watch from afar (for exercise and fresh-air) - keeping a watchout for any signals to return to the coach should a solution be found!

'Twas a pleasant diversion for an explorer like me, but perhaps an unwanted intrusion into the life of these brilliant multi-professioned Icelandic guys. I descended when I was signalled that ALL was done, - the valley road being somewhat busier now (end of waork on a FRIDAY evening?). SIGRUN, our lady guide, told me that, even without Surnames on the Island, she was able to meet and recognise a long-lost relative of hers - so ALL of us had had an exciting afternoon!!

Once back in Reykjavik - we delivered all of our friends to their appropriate Hotels, mine (the ESJA) being last!! I personally thanked SIGRUN with comments and her well-earned kiss. These were our goodbyes as the individuals set out on their private plans for the final days before returning to our own countries. I will continue in the 'capital' before I depart.

Advance to Icelands capital for my conclusion
or return, now, to Icelandic index for reorientation.


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