** WITH THE LAPPS OF THE GODS **
This is the 25 April 2005 Edition of
this page.
CHAPTER SIX
**Back to NORWEGIAN LAPLAND again!**
15th July 2000 (Saturday)
It felt as if I'd had a "good night's sleep" - despite waking up at 23.30hrs, 03.30hrs, 0539hrs and 06.30hrs, -
but fed-up with continuous cat-napping I got up, toiletted and dressed (I'd had my shave last night!).
My case was then zipped-up, but this exercise gets harder every time. The alarm called me at 6.59am - just a
bit ahead of the expected 7.00am!! I pondered about going to breakfast early before the advertised 7.30am, -
but NO!! - the door was locked so I had to wait and chat with a Yorkshire couple who thought about doing the
same thing!
After a FULL CONTINENTAL breakfast (from 7.30am until 8.05 am) I then exitted the restaurant and loaded
my case into the coach. We are off to the ABISKO NATIONAL PARK today.
At 11.32am, we entered NORWAY again. We had a photo opportunity enroute to NARVIK, with lakes and
mountains PLUS a suspension bridge to the left. I had a midday meal in the NARVIK HOTEL, a quite good one
with a large selection on ONE PLATE!
After the meal, our group went to the WAR MUSEUM, but my hatred of 'war' caused me to go on my own
WALK around town for its more pleasant GARDENS, PARKS and FJORD!! I met the 'early leavers' from
the MUSEUM at 3.15pm onwards. The bus, later, headed off to HARSTAD by way of BJERKUK and
bridges over a distance of about 124 kilometres (approx). It was great scenery with photo-stop opportunities
en route.
Eventually, we arrived at HARSTAD - and I recognised parts of it near the CENTRUM that I had visited a
few years ago. Our Hotel, the VIKING NORDIC, was near the bus-station near the "Hurtigrute" (my
previous -1993- reason for being here!) - and its parking place on the dock.
However, I could not recognise or remember the streets and other attributes at all!! The hotel (a LARGE
modern one) had 'lifts' that didn't work very well, and my 'room-key' (a card) also didn't work very well!!
It all seemed 'too clever' and its technology is 'suspect'!!
A 'poor average' dinner this evening but I had a 'lovely sweet'. Their organisation was very poor - and our
seats were TOO CLOSE together. Following the meal, I went on my own private walks, attempting to repeat
similar ones to those on my first visit to HARSTAD. It proved impossible due to the town's own changes!!
I had some TV in the evening with its 'Tour de France' updates.
16th July 2000 (Sunday)
Our 'continental breakfast' was very badly organised - before I took my case to the reception
area for delivery to the coach later. Meanwhile, our group of about 15 people made its way
down to the Hurtigrute (the M/S VESTERALEN) for today's trip.
It departs, normally, at 8.45hrs and the time now is 8.27hrs. Most of us have got good seats by a
window on the very top deck!! Guess that I'll probably have to stay here until I REALLY have to
move! Like, - for lunch!!
We were due to arrive at RISOYHAMN at 10.50hrs - and departing from there at 11.15hrs. It was
a pleasantly nice cruise at a slow speed in calm waters. I chatted in my seat to an IRISH GUY (Harry)
who came across to me while his Mary was asleep at their table!
The 'Vesteralen', with its size and facilities, differs from the 'Lofoten' in many ways, - not the least of which
is the replacing of the 'chalked boards' at the exit gangway (with info about times of re-sailing) by digital
display screens in the lounges! There's progress!!
This is where (RISOYHAMN) that I'd previously photographed the sunrise UNDER the bridge and over
the MOUNTAINS when I was here in 1993. On this occasion, we were here from 10.50 - 11.15hrs..
The next stop was going to be at SORTLAND from 12.30- 13.15hrs - so I managed to visit the
toilet before then!! The couple opposite me, English speakers, were able to "keep an eye" on my bag
whilst I was away!
On my way to the toilet, I met GEOFF who told me that "lunch-time has been changed to 12.00noon", -
so I joined in with that, leaving before the coffee at 12.35hrs to go on another private WALK (again). This
time it was the route that I'd taken with REITJE & PASCALE a few years earlier. I recognised the 'dock',
but there were more newly-built 'sheds' than in 1993. They were a little bit before my earlier 'turn-off' point,
there being a LOT more ARMCO this time!!
I took a couple of photos of the current HURTIGRUTE before its departure aand 'legged it' until I reached
the older section of road - this time with hand-lugagge! One boat was on its way to STOKMARKNESS and
I viewed my 'previous panic route' again, and wondered where Reitje & Pascale had reboarded. I think that
I found the 'possible place'. It was a lovely experience of that GREAT DAY!!
At Stockmarkness, I wandered the streets and the ice-cream shop - before going on to the HURTIGRUTE
Museum. Then I took the coach to the ferry.
On the LOFOTEN ISLAND to SVOLVAER, we travelled about 20 miles - taking many photos of beautiful
scenery. At Svolvaer I had a good meal and continued my exploration of the place started in1993. Back at the
hotel, the TV ('Discovery Channel') reported the great accomplishment where 'Jim' in his "STREAMLINER 3"
(A Bonneville Superior) had broken the world '750cc Class' record with 595Kph. After that, I watched some
non-English reports on EUROSPORT about the 'Tour de France' and the AUSTRIAN GP, where our David Coulthard
had come 2nd to Mika Hakkinen!
17th July 2000 (Monday)
Raucous seagulls awoke me at 6am, so I toiletted then. There was no 'call' or 'door-knocking' occuring at
6.30am or 7.00am! I re-awoke at 7.15am so got up then, joining the Yorkshire couple and our well-known
'mother of five' at breakfast. There were good 'continental' choices - before we prepared for our 'exploration
of the Lofotens'.
The coach departed at 8.30am and we motored (taking photos) to HENNINGSVAAR and the beautiful
fishing village where they are still building and renovating.
This was only 15 miles from this morning's start. I
took several photos around this lovely place - and later, on the coach, wrote up some of my notes.
We returned to SVOLVAER (just 60 miles) via the VIKING RESIDENCE at BORG. Before continuing on
our trip - which included a BOAT TRIP to TROLLFJORD, I retrieved my jumper and more film for many
beautiful photos. That journey on the boat was for about 30miles!! It was a great experience.
I was a good evening at the SVOLVAER HOTEL, Geoff telling us that tomorrow's breakfast will be 'from 7am'
and that 'cases' should be ready at 10.45hrs for an 11.00hrs departure. Miscellaneous TV documentaries occupied
my attention later that evening.
18th July 2000 (Tuesday)
I woke up at 6.05am and was ready to get up at 6.39am, preparing for the day and breakfast, which I had on my own!
Being first to breakfast at 7.05 am, I was followed by Marjorie at 7.45am and a Yorkshire couple shortly afterwards. I
had my final 'eats', there, at 8.50am and took my orange juice to my room, where I watched miscellaneous TV before
packing ans closing my case.
I took my camera on an extensive exploration of the 'front', plus the backstreets of SVOLVAER, - up to the foot of the
LOFOTENS where I took several enroute photos before returning - quite tired!
Back in the HAVNA HOTEL I bought a sandwich Ice-cream, which I took to my room and enjoyed as I watched the
progress on the TOUR DE FRANCE (and other items) on BBC PRIME (including Rolf Harris's Animal Hospital!).
I then got ready for our 10.55hrs takeoff (by coach) from the Havna Hotel, motoring north across LOFOTEN Island
to FISKBOL (from Svolvaer). Such BEAUTIFUL scenery!!!
Today's coach-leg had covered 20 miles - before we got the ferry-boat to MELBU, for its 25 minute (5 mile) trip. From
MELBU we motored to our lunch stop at SORTLAND, where I had an exploration, first to the hills, then to open
spaces where ARCTIC TERN attacked me, before progressing on to the industrial area on the north side ot town.
After that, we motored across to the mainland (over the SORTLAND BRIDGE), then northwards across the RISOYHAMN
bridge to motor (then) the complete length of ANDOYA. This took us to ANDENES to have an exploratory walk and dinner
before motoring in the NW corner of ANDOYA for the BLEIK appartments - where I shared an appartment with DUNCAN.
I had a short, slow, walk over the sands to met some of the group members - and later to meet Duncan as his swim had just
ended. I then went back to our chalet to write up my notes - and also make a cup of tea (using the coffee perculator!) - and
of the Tetley's Rose Hip Tea brand. Our mileage in the coach to MELBU had been about 85 miles.
Later, I made a solo walk over the beach, before failing to get today's TOUR DE FRANCE results on the TV. My interest
in this specific event is due to my past life as a cyclist (although as a non-competitive one!). It is also 'curious' in that I don't
normally like TEAM games or sports, - but, here, I can enjoy the team-strategies and philosophies. I'd managed to get part
of the French commentary - but failed to find teletext on any channel!!
19th July 2000 (Wednesday)
We got a 'double alarm' on the door to our chalet at BLEIK, - once at 6.03am and again at 6.26am!! I found that
the mirror is SO close to the shaver point that the ADAPTOR can't get in!!
After loading the cases in to the coach, we were taken to a breakfast place in ANDENES (where we had last night's
evening meal!). It was GOOD meal (although a 'rushed' one!) - after which we went to the WHALE SAFARI STATION -
along with Germans, French and miscellaneous visitors. We got exhibition presentations and slide-shows before some of
the 'braver' people got on a boat for a 'watching' spell. So soon after a rushed breakfast, I considered my stomach and
decided to do some walking, doing a small 'orbit' of our area, before writing these notes up-to-date. That done by 10.39am,
I now have until 3pm (at least) to use up!
My next walk was on a larger orbit - taking me 'out of town' to the airport. It displayed the signs for
.
FLYPLASS ( a Helicopter Airbase) but no signs on its being a NATO Airbase! It really was devoted
.
to the NORWEGIAN AIR FORCE, having not many aircraft (about 4 take-offs per day!). I took a few
photos around 'Flyplass' (the workers Car Park?) and, later on, the FLIGHTSTATJON (I later still
noticed) had some low profile 'no photography' notices.
I then took a slow walk back to my own lunch at the CAFE at the WHALE-WATCHING-PLACE. I
had earlier met two ladies from our 'group' at an intermediate stop.
I made multiple visits to the WHALE WATCH CONTROL to talk with others, who were not on the trip,
to discuss the possible lateness of the boats return (and their drivers) and the missing of tonight's ferry and
tomorrow's flight!! Praise was awarded to the Japanese Organisers who planned the whale-watching at the
start of the tour, rather than leaving it to the 'critical' end of tour.
Multiple ETAs were given for the group's arrival. Original ETA was 3pm, which was later changed to 5pm,
6pm, 7pm ... then 5.50pm when they were 'on the way back'! We were hoping to catch the ferry at
5.30pm from ANDENES to GRYLLFJORD on SENA.
The whale-boat rang the ferry to try and get it delayed half an hour. This was obviously unsuccessful! We
saw it depart at 5.31pm.
As the next ferry is tomorrow morning, our next best option, now, is to motor the approximate 400Km to
TROMSO when they return. They did return at about 6pm, and by the time they'd joined us walkers
on the coach, it was about 6.25pm. The driver started the coach and we made our way again to the
ANDENES restaurant that we'd used several times before. Geoff arranged our meal - at very short
notice - and it was a very good one too - without soup or sweet!!
It was a very tender VEAL (?) steak - one of the best that I ever remember eating. It compared, very favourably,
with the MYSTERY STEAK that I'd had in VENICE many years ago!
Then, with our driver, we made our way, via the E10 and E6 (first South, then East, then North!) to TROMSO
making a single, very useful, 'comfort stop' before our 2.30am arrival at TROMSO's SAGA HOTEL.
Immediately, I prepared for, and got into, bed at 2.45am (after some useful cat-napping during the trip via the
pouring midnight rain and the beautiful early morning scenery in the improving weather).
Our coach, from ANDENES to TROMSO, had covered 320miles.
20th July 2000 (Thursday)
I awoke and toiletted before note-writing to bring things up-to-date from 6.45am -7.16am. After that, I
ensured that my AIR-TICKETS and PASSPORT were in the jacket pockets for today's trips - and that
sufficient Sterling funds were available for my LONDON travel.
I then washed and dressed by 7.38am - and opened my curtains to witness the blue skies and a good day,
generally, for travelling. My case and hand-baggage were then packed before breakfast - which I went down for
at 7.55am..
I started my first walk to the TROMSO waterfont at 8.30am, being the only UK person around! I witnessed a
raft at the dock and also saw:-
(a) a light 'tour' boat with a Bergen registration,
(b) a US NAVAL SHIP ("Pathfinder"),
(c) an ocean-racing YACHT ("Seleni" - registered in Hamilton) - which made
me think of Richard Branson).
Back at the room, I then visited a new breakfast room, to see if anyone who might know about what time we get
collected. No-one knew but some Yorkshire people THINK that it MAY be at 12noon!! I had thought something
like 11am, - so I guess I'd better be reappear at about 10.30am!!
At about 9.07am, I departed, and just before going for another walk, I called to see if there were 'any more clues'!?
A Yorkshire guy was dramatically indicating "See Duncan", so I went to Duncan's table - and he remembers "1pm
collection by driver". I'd already found out that we should vacate our rooms by 12noon - so I guess that we are in for an
hour's wait before the driver (Bard?) picks us up (with our "cases out by noon" baggage).
So we just hung around in the lobby waiting for further details! I decided to go for a long walk - possibly across the
large bridge to the ICE-CATHEDRAL. I went and viewed a TROMSO-based catamaran and other craft - and
modified my plan (due to the heat of this SUN) to NOT crossing the bridge but investigating the streets, markets,
wooden church etc before returning to my room for TV browsing and note-writing.
At 10.41am, whilst watching "Tour De France" (live on TV in Norwegian), Geoff knocked on my door to say "take
your cases to the empty room (near the breakfast room) by 12noon!" We can do whatever we want after that!! I'm
doing more browsing on TV until then! (Lance Armstrong is still 5m37secs ahead of 2nd position Ullrich.)
I took my own case to the 2nd Floor room, now 'harbouring' some other ' ARCTIC EXPERIENCE' cases from
our group - and left it at 11.40am. Then it was 'back to own room' for more of the DISCOVERY CHANNEL with
'Wildlife' until I left the room at 11.55am..
Then I had chats and relaxation,in the foyer of the TROMSO Hotel, - with other English guests who were on our
trip. Eventually, at about 1pm, Bard loaded us into the coach - and took us to the airport. (It was just 15 miles!)
Geoff has suggested 'checking in EN BLOCK' to smooth out the luggage overweight variations (It may have been,
of course, that he realised that he'd got more than average!!) His 'reasoning' was that the issue of the boarding cards
could be accelerated (from just over an hour to approx 10 minutes!) Well, it was quicker and more covenient than
for separate individual travellers! The 'block system' meant hat we had FREE seating (from Tromso to Oslo) - but that
meant getting on 30th (approx), despite being 2nd in OUR queue, but the aircraft was FULL-UP even at KIRKENES.
I don't, therefore, like this FREE system (my luggage is NEVER overweight anyway!!) I got the last available window
seat on the plane!
The air-distance from Tromso to Oslo was 1113 kilometres. Flaps were at zero degrees on our departure, increasing to ten
degrees for taxying and take-off, before reducing to five degrees for the flight. For LANDING, they were at 45 degrees -
and still quite high when taxying at the other end.
I'm now waiting in the 'international departure lounge' for the 17.00 hrs flight - from as yet unquoted gate - and the
facilities at the OSLO airport are limited to boozers, smokers and chocaholics - none of which are suitable
for those of a DIABETIC disposition (like me!) or those of a restricted limit of UK spending!!
Still, hopefully, the 'Gate Number' might appear soon (around 18.50hrs) - otherwise one could, very easily, get
bored here! At 18.09hrs , we lived in hope!
However, at 18.10hrs, we got a 'Gate Number', i.e. 36, but their STAFF is not ready for us - although probably in
an hour's time!??
Then we were sitting in our 'group seats' - I having moved from 21E to 21F for the aircraft's FLAP observation.
We were in the MD81/82 and flew 1500 miles from TROMSO to HEATHROW. Those flaps were at zero degrees
in flight (as we didn't have a heavy load!) but had been at 15 degrees during taxying and takeoff. [Before takeoff, the
right aileron was up at 30degrees - although this was corrected to zero degrees as we started to 'roll'!]
I was joined by Geoffrey Roy in seat 21D for the last phase of the journey for a chat after the evening meal was over
and my paperwork done! On exitting the plane, I forgot to get a trolley at TERMINAL3, which left me with a long
walk with HEAVY CASES in (to me!) the SWELTERING heat of London's HEATHROW.
I bought an 'underground ticket' for £3.50 from a Heathrow machine for my trip to PADDINGTON (via the
'changes' at EARL's COURT and GLOUCESTER ROAD). After 20 miles on these trains, I arrived at the
ASHLEY HOTEL and the guy on duty found my 'hidden key' (under a bucket). I'm staying in Room 19 on the
4th Floor in the OASIS HOTEL component!!
I had coffee by myself in that room - before the sweltering overnight stop - and watching JO BRAND's TV
guests and a bit about the LibDem's affinity with 'Labour'! I had a good night's sleep until 5am, before using the
ablutions and then cat-napping for an hour on top of the bed. [I had been there ALL NIGHT!!]
21st July 2000 (Friday)
I got up, dressed, shaved and 'got ready' for the day by 7.00am.. Next, I completed the
ARCTIC EXPERIENCE questionnaire and it was now ready for posting!! I posted this
near the ASHLEY HOTEL and then went for breakfast at 7.25am. We had juices, rice
crispies, two fried eggs, toast, blackberry jam, strawberry jam - and then I continued my
packing for the day and browsing TV.
Having paid the balance of my accommodation charge (£36.50), I left this hotel at 9.05am
and got the 'circle line' to Victoria. From there, I had to struggled with my cases, in the 'London Heat',
to the VICTORIA COACH STATION. I got some relaxation in short spells before leaving
the case with the 'left-luggage' office and finding my way to a little park with seats (near Victoria
Station!) where I could take my refreshments during the day.
Those refreshments were bought in a mini-market near the ASHLEY. Whilst in my seat there,
an older guy, in the opposite seat, was talking to himself (I don't know whether he was 'mad'
or just engaging in random mumblings!!) Whatever the reason, it continued for a very long
time! The language was unsure to my ears, but later, I noticed he had been talking into a
ballpoint pen (only to stop when the 'park gardener' got close! Is he in contact with 'someone in power'
- or what? Whilst I'd been making my own written notes, I found that he was talking into the
pen less - and using it as a whistle and doing more 'ranting and rambling'!
Perhaps he is one of London's "gentlemen of the road" (albeit well dressed!) with psychological
problems - that we find from time to time.
I left there at 11.20am and trawled my body and handbaggage about Victoria, Buckingham Palace,
etc until I reached ST JAMES PARK for a sitdown, relaxation, notes & refreshments at 12.05hrs..
There, I had ices, seats on the grass near an empty bandstand, - but a band passed nearby, behind,
with many foreign tourists rushing to catch their glimpses of their costumes and sounds. (Here, we are
just 100yards, or so, from Buckingham Palace!!)
I resumed my writing at another stop at 12.30hrs. The PARK is very, well 'quite', crowded with grass-sitting
people of all nations, seeking, like me, the shade under the trees in London's sweltering weather. Unfortunately,
at 12.40hrs, the ITALIANS and the FRENCH seemed to imagine that this is part of a crowded MEDITERRANEAN
beach. I shall have to move OUT soon!
I'm being 'crowded' with too much 'people-pollution'! Some even have their ears welded (apparently) to
plastic boxes and through which they apparently communicate (with extra-terrestrials?). The time
is now 12.50hrs.
By 13.17hrs, I'd arrived at the clearer green grass off 'Birdcage Walk' (in St James Park) having been close to
Buckingham Palace and the Mall (be-decked with Union Jacks). There were many ice-cream vendors (hardly
any of which could understand English!) - and they rushed with their carts to pavements outside the Palace! Compared
with my published ice-cream price of a half hour ago (£1.40!), these guys were charging UNPUBLISHED prices from
£5 to £10. One of their mates was keeping them informed of observers (like me!) and the POLICE!!
I noticed
this 'scam' being exposed on TV a few days later - and included even higher prices for Hot Dogs!!
Whilst my current spot is uncrowded and pleasant, things could change when others FIND, like me, an easy way in to
the Park! Meanwhile, I got my packed-lunch OUT, and spread some nice BRIE onto my CHEDDAR biscuits! I also
noticed that a policewoman was getting details from an ICE-CREAM SALES-BLOKE between my last two spots!
At 14.11hrs, I arrived at the little park near VICTORIA STATION in Buckingham Palace Road, where, near here,
a few months ago, the 'emergency services' were dealing with a 'knocked down' cyclist (still alive, but a bit groggy
from the experience). Ambulance and Police were both in attendance for dealing with him - and getting him into the
ambulance ready for the hospital. The police also had to deal with the real-time direction of the busy Westminster
and Victoria traffic!!
Soon, I was to move to VICTORIA COACH STATION, where I had to hang around finding different seats,
refreshments, and so on, and working out how today's coach system was working. My coach, the 412 for Great
Malvern, is to depart from Gate 4 at 17.30hrs, once the previous ones (delayed or otherwise) are out of the way!
I was fortunate enough to get a 'left window seat' without curtains or pillars to obstruct my view. I was just nine rows back!
Being on the south side of the coach on the way home, soon the sun's rays would not blind me.
Through the crowded exit roads from LONDON, I slept and cat-napped to avoid the poor viewing opportunities. There would
have been nothing worth seeing. I did this all the way back to MALVERN, just opening my eyes, from time to time, to observe
how far we'd got and what route we were taking!!
We went from Heathrow, via the M4, the SWINDON bypass,
CIRENCESTER and EVESHAM. The sun set at 8.54 pm and then 9.00pm on Evesham! After two and a half
weeks WITHOUT a SUNSET,
Evesham went 'over the top' with TWO in one evening!
I arrived in MALVERN, behind our schedule, at 9.35pm - and then walked home with my heavy cases, taking
the local toilet for relief in Malvern Link and arriving home at 10.10pm. I'd passed 162 miles on today's coach.
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