** MADEIRA BOUND **


This is the 11 Nov 2003 Edition of this page.


My outline PLAN for my Tour to Madeira was as shown below, so I was to arrive on 17 January 2000.
(The Travelogue starts after this.)

17 January 2000
checkin at Birmingham 10.15
dept from Birmingham 12.15
 Arrival at FUNCHAL airport 16.00 Transport to MELBA Residentia Hotel
Time from airport approx 50mins
18-25 Jan
 Network of paths to explore Share with MONTE VERDE Hotel
26-30 Jan
 Bus rides to other places Share with MONTE VERDE Hotel
31 January 2000
 Flight from Funchal to Birmingham! Back to OWN bed in Malvern


...Travelogue...


MONDAY - 17 Jan 2000

Today, I'm off to somewhere decidedly more hilly than Malvern. So I was awakened ( sorry, I reawoke) at 6.28am by my trusty digital radio alarm - specifically by my favourite Radio2!! After listening to the news and weather, I got dressed, completed my packing - and indulged in own of my favourite 'cereals', the "Cinnamon Grahams" before 7 am..Having got ahead of my own schedule, my own car departed from home at 8 am instaed of 8.40 am..

That 40min 'lead' proved useful for the VERY congested roads ALL the way to BIRMINGHAM AIRPORT. There were real JAMS at Powick and the M5 near WORCESTER, the M42's Junction 1 to Junction 5 - but nowhere was free of traffic!! Despite all this, I still arrived quarter of an hour ahead of my schedule at the BR Station Car Park at the airport - at 9.35am.. Needing a toilet visit by then, I availed myself of the facility in the Railway Station complex. I had to buy the necessary Parking Token there too!! (Originally, that used to be £2, then £5 - but has just gone up to £8 for us that do not purchase a rail-ticket!!) That price turns out to be even more expensive than the 'Airport Flyer' ticket by rail from Malvern. [Unfortunately, I couldn't have bought one of those because of the absence of a 'return' on 31 January 2000!]

I got on the shuttle-bus (having put on my raincoat and hat for warmth) carrying a case for this leg to the airport-terminal from the Station (in the Airport) - getting there at 10.00 am and checking-in at 10.12am and requesting a 'window-seat' (getting 5A!).

Whilst at Birmingham Airport, I managed to change £50 worth of Travellers Cheques and a few coins for 15000 Escudos - as the Portuguese currency is what they use in Madeira. Then, for my 12.15 pm flight, the boarding time was 11.45 am., having gone through various waiting halls and departure lounges. Then the notice came to go to Gate 40, which was 'no surprise' as I'd seen the SABRE Airlines Jet waiting there since it arrived!

I joined the queue AFTER the 'low range' of seat numbers had been called - and went on my way to seat 5A. After a little while, I was joined by a woman in seat 5C (her 'fellow' is in 5D). Our craft is a Boeing 737/800 - and I'm still not sure whether this LARGE aircraft lands on PORTO SANTA or on the mainland island of Madeira for Funchal!! (Madeira is an ex-volanic island with virtually NO flat territory!!)

Anyway, - over the Bay of Biscay, our pilot says that we've come via Southampton, Brest and Biscay and will be proceeding to Spain and then to Madeira! After an initial quiet period, I then chatted with the woman in seat 5C on many topics (including travel, writing, Richard Branson, the National Lottery, Michael Palin, Bill Gates and her previous trip to Madeira [which was as part of a sea-cruise!]) She was going to be on Madeira for a week this time - but I'll be here for TWO weeks.

Quite a while before LANDING (which will be at about 15.35hrs) we passed near PORTO SANTO (easily recognisable) and headed for the "straight-in" approach to FUNCHAL. This must be an extended mountain airstrip between Machico and Funchal at SANTA CRUZ!? The pilot warned us that it is a SHORT runway and he would apply LOTS of REVERSE THRUST for braking. We carefully got 'established' at low-speed for the approach and landing. It is like a smaller aircraft landing on a boat or aircraft carrier - but we are in a BOEING 737 jet airliner!!
A Boeing 737!!
After several corrections and adjustments to heading and speed, we touched down safely before being subjected to MASSIVE amounts of reverse-thrust. I counteracted this by use of my arms pushing on the 'seat-in-front'! During our gentle deceleration, later, I established that we'd landed on the right-hand-side of the runway, -and that with NO TAXIWAYS, we had to turnaround in the width of the runway and taxi-back to near the Terminal. On exitting the plane we were met by, and accommodated in, TWO coaches for the short journey to that Terminal.

In a baggage-redemption area, we waited an ETERNITY for our bags to appear. Each got their own when the carousel obliged! Having retrieved mine, and passing through the 'Nothing to declare' channel, I then met a 'Thompson' rep who instructed me (incorrectly as I found later) to go to the head of the 'coach line', outside, for Coach 'A' for Hotel Melba. When I got there, a Finnish Guy said that these coaches are for 'FINNS ONLY' - so I headed back the way that I had come! There, I left my case with another guy (near another Coach 'A' at the REAR of the coach-line) and he promised correct delivery to the MELBA while I got into said Coach 'A'!!

When a woman had checked us ALL (by 'name' & 'required hotel'), we set off over the Mountains for FUNCHAL. She gave us all her 'mini-guide' and welcome to Madeira, pointing out plans en-route to the FOUR hotels covered by this coach. We made TWO stops (of course, my exit was at the latter). We were told about tomorrow's introductory talk by BEVERLEY at 11.15 am. - and I was given my key to room 303. This was a small studio-apartment in the MELBA, just opposite the MONTE VERDE. I informed the personel about my problems about keys and lights from the start, so that I could have a trouble-free stay for the next few weeks.

Having got part-settled, I then went for my usual 'exploratory-walk' in the early evening (returning totally exhausted to the MELBA RESIDENTIA). Thereafter I got an early-night, like 7pm, and I was later awakened by explosions 11.30pm. It's thunder - with a TROPICAL DOWNPOUR. That included thunder and lightning for over an hour until 12.45am tomorrow.

TUESDAY - 18 Jan 2000

The overnight thunder, lightning and POURING rain caused me MUCH loss of sleep but, by 7a.m, I successfully re-awakened and decided to get ready for breakfast! I got in before the 8a.m start that it was scheduled for. I was FIRST (if you discount the 2 dozen Germans in front of me!) - that meant a VERY LONG queue with everyone else speaking in a language that I, unfortunately, have not got sufficient knowledge of, or practice with, either to understand or communicate with. That's MY failing - not theirs!

I got a pleasant place in the conservatory-like breakfast room, in a corner overlooking the close-by banana plantations and the ATLANTIC OCEAN. The view was GREAT - only spoilt when the sun rose and blinded my vision. I vowed, from tomorrow onwards, to sit somewhere different - and face a DIFFERENT WAY!

After having 'second' and 'third' helpings, now without a queue, I reflected on my orange drinks, rolls, butter, jams etc and how the late English-arrivers had missed the 'GERMAN RUSH'. That, too, I would change in the days ahead. Perhaps the German party is all leaving together this morning (they ALL left very, very quickly) and 'missing that rush' won't be necessary!

Before 9 a.m. I was on my exploratory walk on neighbouing roads - and then down to the harbour. Despite the map (got from 'Reception' yesterday) giving many road-names, very few of the ACTUAL roads are annotated, and quite frequently (like in Cyprus) different from the Map when both appear!! I thought that such a map might prove of LIMITED use - but I must PERSEVERE!! Part of the objective of accurate map-reading was to get back to reception in time for Beverley's briefing and 'gen-session' at 11.15am..

At Bev's meeting, I got a FABULOUS MAP which showed the Geography very well, including the SANTA CRUZ Airport - which is mounted just like on an Aircraft Carrier, but on the main island - overhanging the Coast. Quite dramatic in reality - and on the Map!! We landed there yesterday - safely but scarily.

Beverley spoke, broadly on a whole range of topics, facilities, booking schemes etc which may help us explore during our stays here. Before we all departed, some bookings were made (including MINE) for this afternoon's "Taste of FUNCHAL". Our Guide for this was an "Upper-Class-Type-Englishman/Speaker" who, some years ago, married a Madeiran Portuguese lady (he's fluent in BOTH languages!). He showed us around FUNCHAL (in general) then, in particular, the following:-

Botanical Gardens
Wine-Tasting and Production Place
Embroidery 'Finishers' (a Cottage Industry!)
FUNCHAL MARKET

Inside Funchal Market.


spending half to one hour on each, returning to the MELBA at about 17.45hrs (having done only about 20 miles in the coach!)

By 6pm, I was off to visit the nearest good, useful supermarket. I purchased my usual range of goodies which included, this time, such items as fruits, yoghurts, biscuits, cheeses and drinks - which went into TWO bags and totalled 2175 Escudos (approx £7 or 10 Euros). So I gave them some notes totalling 5200 Escudos and got my 3025 change. Who's a happy bunny then?? Well, I am certainly!! Back to my room in the attractive little 'residencia', (I keep away from the big hotels if I can!) I indulged in some meals with the recently purchased ingredients (plus a few others) before participating in my toiletries - which were finished by 7.15pm..

Some worrying RUMBLES were ON at the time,- and still continued until 8.20pm - at least!! Although I understood that this island has been VOLCANICALLY dormant for a VERY long time, I tried desperately to get to sleep. It was raining so hard - that going OUTSIDE was not really an option!!

WEDNESDAY - 19 Jan 2000



I resisted the temptation to get up and dressed at the 6.30am 'toilet trip' - and so I had a lay-in until 7.20am.. At 8.10am, I went to breakfast - and this time there were NO queues! I went straight in to get a very good choice of buffet-breakfast items. I had various rolls, meats, cheeses, coffee, orange-drink .... followed by 'SECONDS' on each!! I forgot to take my 'sweeteners' with me - so had sugar in the coffee. NAUGHTY boy!!

A French couple to the left of me provided that delightful welcome sound of a language that I could understand! (Makes a change from a room-full of German-speakers!) Later, more English and a few Germans arrived. There was NO SUN in my eyes today (but I'd taken a seat at a table where I was facing the other-way anyhow!) - but overcast weather predominated.

My walk took me Eastwards, first via Bragancas and then via an un-named, washed away, very steep road (West of Ilheus). Then I went Northwards AND UPwards on Luis de Cameus until I turned left onto a concrete-based LAVADA between Cameus and the River. Handy those Lavadas!!

On that short stretch, I met two other walkers (one in EACH direction!) PLUS a guy who was cementing the running repairs to the 'edgings'. Clearly, this is NOT a place to walk at night!! There was always the danger (if the day-light was absent) of falling through the un-lidded holes into the fast-flowing irrigation waters. Some of the banana-gardens have water flowing directly out of the lavadas into where they need it. Further along the river, one of the lavadas crossed it - before I was forced into a guessing game with the roads. I'd taken an un-named road on my map to access 'Dr.PITA' - and then I could turn right - and UPwards along PITA - until it turned right and levelled along DOS BARRIEROS.

When I got to Travessa Levada Pillar, it looked too dangerous beyond a certain point. I, therefore, returned into the Virtudes area, going up and northwards along PILAR, then under a bridge under Via Rapida?. There I get the "Rua da virtudes" (rather than 'caminho') signs on the 'works' in progress indicated for the NAZARE area (a sort of 'shopping facility' area) - then left onto the main 'left sweeping' road (of no name!) - but I can see the Harbour from here.

Guessing that the road would probably be 'Dr Pita' I come across another similarly 'lost' Engish guy (at a bus-stop outside his hotel on "American Way"). We compared maps (his and mine were both incomplete!) and recognised 'Dr Pita' and 'Bragancas' (also Nazare) - and so I found the unnamed 'American Way' on MY map! I marked it up! His bus came and I walked, now more contented, on my way. I descended right down a steep one-way road in the approximate direction for my HOTEL.

I turned left at the bottom to head for the harbour area, but within a few yards, I recognised the view as being the same as the picture on my wall. It was the local 'top-road'. So I turned right (the umbrella now has to be erected) to return to the MELBA HOTEL and my own food and do some more writing. I finished that at 12.02 hrs - and then continued reading RICHARD BRANSON's autobiography until 13.25hrs.. I generated his FAMILY TREE from the info on this session.

The rain, which started near the end of my morning walk (approx 11am), is now slowing a bit - but the skies are still heavily overcast! I went for a walk (with the umbrella - just 'in case') to a point SW of the hotel, then walked westwards on various promenades by the coast - for a mile or two (by this time, my right toe-nails were producing considerable discomfort). There were off-coast clouds to the South, dropping rain in the distance, but the threat that they posed didn't materialise.

I returned to "room 303" at the MELBA at 15.05hrs - completely knackered! After a brief relaxation on my bed, I then did some 'pedicure' on my feet - after which I could relax even better!

I met Beverley, again, at 17.30hrs and paid for my Tuesday trip and also for the "Woodlands & Wicker" trip on Friday. That one was 3600Esc (about £12). I later changed £20 at 295Esc/£ for a further supply of 5900Esc. I forewarned Beverley about the LANDSCAPES & LEVADAS walk on Sunday, saying that I'll pay her later (that'll be 5000Esc!) On seeing her later, I found that I could pay by VISA card at a far better rate - at about 312Esc/£ !!

I then tried to view the TV that had been installed in my room. Unfortunately, the English and American programmes were of no interest, and the others I couldn't understand! In the Reception Area of the Hotel, there were quite a few photo-albums (part of the THOMSON service!) which I perused. Soon after, I bought my own PHOTO of CURRAL DAS FREIRAS, an ex-volcanic feature in the centre of the island. I was determined to visit this 'Valley of the Nuns' sometime during my stay here.

Curral das Freiras - from above.
Today, I had done zero mileage on any form of transport. I ended the day by reading more of Richard Branson's autobiography - a truly enthralling book.

THURSDAY - 20 Jan 2000

At around 7pm, I got up, shaved, dressed and took the first of my medication that I'd brought from Malvern! There are so many of these items, nowadays, that this time, they have a drawer to themselves! I was ready to go, direct, to breakfast at 7.55am., - surprisingly, with no queue. I got my requirements and had the windows facing AWAY from the sun - which didn't appear until later!

The receptionist will see about busus to and from CURRAL DAS FRIERAS. Probably it needs the No81?? I started with FOUR hours of exploratory walking between the hotels, around the port, boats, sailing boats etc - indulging in some photography from 8.45 until 12.45.. I even took photos of paintings of sailing boats in the harbour, especially the CHRISTIAN RIDICHE - which I'd photographed 'for real' in OSLO a few years ago!

Then I found some little refreshment places around the boats and the 'atmosphere' of the Marina. I stopped for my ice-cream, which is cheaper here, unusually, than in England! I was back to my Room 303 after a 4-hour walk for a solo 'cheese & biscuits' meal.

About 1.30pm, I left (in the rain!) for a one hour walkup the hill to the north of the hotel. The roads were VERY steep and often turned into 'tracks' - before disappearing into 'paths'!! Paths just 'disappeared' as the RAIN got even HEAVIER. I crossed a LAVADA and descended the direct route back to the hotel! I spoke with a receptionist about the 'bustimes', routes and prices. The Charts, somehow, didn't correlate!! I, then, decided to STUDY them in the mid-afternoon

Later, I discovered that the trip entitled "Once upon a time" goes to the CURRAL DAS FREIRAS (only to the top!) - for viewpoints and photos. I immediately booked this voyage with my VISA card through Beverley. [4000Esc for Wednesday] PLUS another for 5000Esc for the Sunday trip entitled "LAVADA LANDSCAPES".

Not knowing what the day's exchange-rate was, I estimated that the approximate Sterling equivalent of the 9000Esc would be about £29! Since it was still POURING with rain at 18.27hrs, I decided that it was time to take my shoes OFF, put my feet UP and read more of RICHARD BRANSON'S Auto-biography.

It was still very WET after I had prepared for tomorrow's trip, and by 19.46hrs, it looked as if another day had GONE! This morning's walk was GOOD though!!

FRIDAY - 21 Jan 2000

I heard APPRECIABLE overnight rainfall from the comfort of my own bed. However, I 'peeked-out' at 7.25am, when dressed, and it was still PITCH-BLACK and DRY, -well there was no rain FALLING at that time!!

The only light is from a few external wall-lights - a romantic setting when it is dry! The shrubbery, and other plants, all help to create that effect.

I'm now ready for breakfast - but I don't think that breakfast is ready for me!! It is just 7.30am, and breakfast is scheduled from 8.00hrs until 8.35hrs. After that meal, I needed to get to the 'bus-stop' for a coach to CAMACHA for our WOODLAND WALK - basically level with wide paths and LEVADAs - plus a WICKER place (cottage industry) with beautiful furniture, baskets etc, etc.. They were on the floors, - with a workshop at the bottom. It was raining all the time - just like rainy-day walks in the MALVERNs!

Back to the hotel for 1pm, I got a snack in my own room. The it was downhill to the Supermarket (PINGDOCE) from 1.40 to 2.40 for some cash-shopping (I normally used PLASTIC there!). After the UPHILL (and fully-laden) trip back to the small hotel, I needed a rest on the bed until 15.20hrs (the hills here are STEEPER than the MALVERN HILLS back home!)

Following that rest, I was 'off again' via the PARKS etc to the FUNCHAL CENTRE (for a quiche meal and some refreshments) being back at the MELBA hotel at 18.30hrs for TV until 19.00hrs. Then I had a spell of reading Richard Branson's autobiography before further TV until 20.30hrs..

SATURDAY - 22 Jan 2000

Well, today, I had a lie-in until 7.17am.. Having washed, shaved and dressed ready for my 8.00 am. breakfast (it was a beautiful buffet meal!) I then went on one of my longest walks for a year or so! That walk lasted from 8.30am. until 14.00 hrs, and, initially, went Eastwards from the hotel, around the harbour area (doing much photography there) and then uphill into the Market Area of Funchal.

There, I looked at and marvelled at those 'viscious looking fishes' brought up from the 'depths' around MADEIRA. They were, I think, called ESPADA which appear to resemble a 'cross' between a BOA CONSTRICTOR and a PIT-BULL TERRIER (complete with snarling TEETH!!!)
Some ESPADA fishes!
They also have enormous EYES and are about one metre long and 10cm in diameter! Having been rushed up from about 800 to 1600metres down, they had presumably suffered from the 'bends' - which accounts for their ANGRY looking faces!! They are UNIQUE to Madeira.

Leaving the market (I had already eaten in the Harbour area), I climbed the hill following the reverse-route of the 'flash-flood channel' taking photos until very high up near a very high bridge (about the altitude of the BOTANIC GARDENS).

Then westwards, still climbing before levelling off, I went in a SW direction which included a call at a Cafe down RUA DEO SANTA LUZIA. Wearing my THRUST SSC tee-shirt, I was engaged in a discussion with an ex-THRUST2 project worker! This was in some back-streets of Funchal - a jumble of streets where we had BOTH got lost!! Nice to meet such nice people in unusual locations! This guy was an aerodynamicist who was engaged in wind-tunnel checks for us.

En-route back to the hotel, I stopped for a rest and refreshment from my rucksack (the hills had made my legs ache and my stomach dry!!) I then continued on until the MELBA.

After a recovery, with food, in my room from 14.00 until 15.00, I then went to walk the west of FUNCHAL along the 'promenades'. So 'sad' that it's already a 'concrete jungle' - it makes such walks LESS than pleasurable!! - And people haven't yet moved into this 'jungle' yet - just pure concrete!! However, even in January, the pavements are all FULL with parked cars. What will happen when hundreds of thousands more 'flood' these jungles of concrete?? It seems to me that the Madeirans haven't "thought this problem through"!!

That walk went from 15.00 until 16.00 before the return to my room and some TV until 17.00hrs. Later, I walked to a meal-place for beefburger, chips, salad and coffee - after which I finished walking back to the MELBA by 19.15hrs - this representing my "ten and three-quarter hour" ramble (more a scramble) with meal-breaks! This walk back from the restaurant was in darkness although the lights presented some romantic scenery with (a) the LINER in PORT (b) the fountains in the park (c) several other 'park exhibits' (d) the general lighting in town and (e) the view of the promenade from a high vantage-point!

In my room, I indulged in some TV (from the US and GB satellite stations) - although they were remarkably uninteresting apart from some 'odd bits'!

SUNDAY - 23 Jan 2000



I was 'up' early this morning - everything done by 7.41am, which included the packing of my rucksack for the day! I had used all the breakfast-buffet facilities at the MELBA, - and was WELL FED!

I went out to find the coach at about 9.30hrs with a trip on the "Landscapes and Levadas" ride and walk. This coach took us the way to QUMTA GRANDA for the first four miles of walking (from there to CAMPANANO) - and, there, some of us did an extra walk ending above the RIBEIRO BRAVA valley.

From there, I caught a coach to RIBEIRO BRAVA for some Fish Soup, Garlic Bread and Orange Drink at a restaurant. Then I strolled along the 'front' at Ribeiro Bravo before getting the coach back to FUNCHAL directly on the VIA RAPIDE (sort of motorway!)

I took my camera - but NO films, although I could have taken MANY - but the choice was TOO LARGE and it would have turned into a CINEMASCOPE movie!!

It was fabulous precipitous scenery - with massive LAVA movements from the past being evident! It MUST have been a long time since the lava flowed here!! How long ago though?? We are miles off the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, being only HALF way from Morocco to this 'ridge'!

Late afternoon, I walked to town for a mooch-around, investigating future snack-bars, gardens and parks. I returned for the evening's TV in my room at the MELBA.

MONDAY - 24 Jan 2000



I had a lay-in until 7.12am this morning - and then got up at 7.31am - followed by TV and thoughts, until 8.00am, about breakfast. I then had a big buffet breakfast until 8.45am and then went out for a walk (in GOOD WEATHER!) going uphill to Dr Pita and getting onto Das Borreiros before turning left for Das Virtudes.

Turning into a side-street, I then made my way, before the new VIA RAPIDA which I went under on Dr Barreto, finding many new roads not on my or other maps (these proved difficult!)

Proceeding from there, up the Caminho Do Pillar until I met a signpost (1Km from Pico Dos Barcelos) where the destination sounded OK! Today, I realised that 'theory' and 'practice' don't tie up with the map-makers. Rather than the technical excellence displayed by the UK's "Ordnance Survey", in Madeira (as in many other places) map-making isn't a 'science' but an 'artists impression' (with too much artistic licence for my taste!) One has to invent one's own 'licence' to interpret the productions!!

I found an ice-cream shop, in a snack-bar, near the summit - which turned out to be at 355metres altitude. I took photos in all directions from the summit, before descending a small distance for a meal and a chat with the proprietor at the SNACK-BAR. After the meal, I meandered slowly down-hill via ESMERALDA, SAO MARTINHO (photos!), CAMINHO DO AMPARO, ENGENHO VELHO and AMERICAN WAY (a looped road) - finding it now RAINING!! For a quick return to the MELBA HOTEL, I descended direct, crossing the LEVADA and a fast route DOWN! At 14.11hrs, in the comfort of my own room, I got my writings up-to-date. What a wonderful trip, Roy!!

I then read more of the RICHARD BRANSON autobiography in the MONTE VERDI whilst my own room in the MELBA was cleaned.Then I scoured the area SW of Melba for future possible eating places (with OK menus at OK prices!) There weren't many! Later there was some more 'rubbish TV' in contrast to the 'brilliant Branson's writings'!

"SCIENCE WORLD" on 'BBC World' was great from 20.30- 21.00hrs.


TUESDAY - 25 Jan 2000



(.... to be continued, hopefully with some photos too, in Madeira's Part Two ....)


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