** PERU - IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF VON DANIKEN **
This is the 1 Feb 2004 Edition of
this page.
CHAPTER FIVE
CUZCO
23rd June 2001 (Saturday)- continued
.
For some reason, after ANOTHER ENGINE from the JULIACA direction had 'rendezvoused' with us, passing
in BOTH directions adjacently, we moved off towards CUZCO!! Making 'good time' into the hills (although, now,
two and a half to three hours behind schedule) we, however, made a further stop at a railway SUMMIT (like the
Beattock Summit in Scotland) at an altitude of over 4100 metres!
.
Alledgedly, our engine had 'broken down' AGAIN. "Funny," I thought, "how the machine can climb so high but
can't go DOWN hill!" There were competing stories here which suggested complicated shunting assignments
on this only TRIPLE tracked part of the line. Engines came and went in both directions on adjacent lines while
we 'waited and pondered', some of us 'inside', some 'outside', for a similar time to the LOWER ALTITUDE stop!
On this occasion, there were 'hoards of traders' to try and sell us their 'goods'.
Some of us bought Llamas for 5sols each - but mine was, I think, a delightful baby alpaca! So I can now
display THAT with the Polar Bears, reindeer, russian-dolls etc from my collection! A fully-laden VERY POSHLY
FURNISHED train (including an observation carriage - very opulent) passed in the opposite direction.
Shortly afterwards, we started off (about 16.15hrs) when the onboard official predicted our new arrival-time at
CUZCO of 21.00hrs [instead of the original 16.30hrs!!].
But, at about 20.20hrs, a big town crept into our surrounds - could this be CUZCO? - it was so large that it could
not really be anything else! At about 20.40hrs, we pulled to a HALT - and expected to find Emilio's promised guy
to pick us up, - as he would be the only one to know where our cases would be! [Incidentally, an earlier theory about
'Stop No1' was that it was to return luggage that fell off after our horrendous jumping and swaying movements.]
No meeting 'cards' with our names on were displayed inside OR outside the station. Many people seemed in the 'same
boats', with SECURITY not allowed outside! Card-Holders were INSIDE to collect their passengers! Rhona was
contemplating phoning the CUZCO Hotel. SALLY-ANNE and myself accepted my private new theory that the
lack of a pickup was that he'd been told of our 9pm arrival - and he couldn't have heard about the earlier 8.40 arrival.
I postulated this at about 8.45pm - and,sure enough, JULIO arrived. We could hear him calling for Mr PETERS!!
I shaked his hand warmly - and expressed our thanks.
Julio and his friend drove us through the very CROWDED roads and HEAVILY PEOPLED square just outside
our very prominent hotel.
Julio had, earlier, apologised in case we couldn't make it - but the argued with the police about the necessity of
getting through! From the moment that we arrived, there was great activity, sound, music, food stalls etc on the
'square' outside my window. From 11pm onwards, there were 'bands', dancing girls on so on!!
As another lively band was passing my window at 11.35pm, I opened the WINDOW and felt the full POWER
of the ATMOSPHERE, the BAND and the FOLK DANCING and I wrote no more that evening - and my
BED-TIME arrived!!
24th June 2001 (Sunday)
.
Due to last night's near-midnight 'going to bed' (this was my latest of any day completely on Peruvian soil!), I
didn't wake up so much overnight (like the first at 3.40am and a second at 5.30am). That ensured that I awoke
fresh' at 6am!! I got a local road-map from 'reception' - and also found our breakfast on the 4th Floor. Having MY breakfast,
whilst looking at the hills, the sun was ready to rise. Soon it did!
I had to change chairs before too long, for the benefit of my eyesight - well before completing the meal.
Then I went out for a number of small walks - mainly for finding a sun-hat shop! I found one MUCH later,
about 9am, but not until I'd bought seven cards (for 10 sols) and followed a guy who was trying to show
me where to buy the sun-hat. (I don't speak his version of Spanish and he didn't understand my type of
English - so we used sign language!). Round and round in circles we went, - he was only GUESSING where
they MIGHT be sold - all VERY WRONG.
In the end, I had to abandon his wanderings (paying him 5sols for his 'bambino' as compensation!). On my own,
I found one shop in the main square, and that gave me a choice of hats - one of which I bought for 20sols. Then
I needed to dash to the centre of the 'square' to get rid of the 'pesky-card-sellers'!!
In the Square's Centre, I realised that I needed my camera - so I returned to my room and got it. Before the PARADE
started, I was in a good standing position at the top of some tall wide steps. Later, after much of the PERUVIAN PIPE
MUSIC (those wispy tones were emanating from a close-by powerful set of 'speakers') more people arrived and it was
then impossible to return to the 'square'. Many visitors were arriving from ALL over the WORLD (originally, I had thought
that it was 'only the locals'!)
A police-cordon surrounded the square, all visitors then having to walk ALL ROUND it (rather than ACROSS it!). Many
HOURS passed before the start of physical movement occurred. A host of dignitaries and a 'beauty-queen' crossed the square
towards my viewing position and these tall steps (to my left). All sorts of Spanish (??) words were spoken on this very
IMPORTANT SPECIAL "24 JUNE HISTORICAL PARADE" which was to follow.
Soon, there were drum-beats and music for the 'entries' of different peoples in different INCA costumes (in a similar,
but grander, method to that used in the PONTINS festivals in the UK!). This 'square' was far more IMPRESSIVE and
SPECTACULAR as a 'back-drop' to the event. Eventually, I got 'too-hemmed-in' as people sat on my feet on my step,
restricting my movement completely. I was, however, able to take a large number of photos, finishing the whole of a
reel of film!!
In the end, I had to get some water (for fear of fainting) and leave my FRONT position at the top of the steps.
[It had become extremely HOT, due to both our latitude and the fact that the shaded areas move in the
OPPOSITE DIRECTION in the Southern Hemisphere!!] [Silly me! I had forgotten this fact - the initial heat had
obviously inhibited my thought processes!]
I had to protect myself from fainting in this OPPRESSIVE PERUVIAN SUN (bloody-hell, this is only its
MIDWINTER sun!). Because of the as-yet-unfinished parade, I had to struggle around the periphery of the
square to reach my intended 'escape-route' to my hotel. Unfortunately, it was cut off by the 'finish-route' of
the performers. I noticed, however, that some people had found a convenient spot to 'cross', - so I headed for
THAT too (as the time for my toilet visit was overdue!!) Walking in this HEAT, at this ALTITUDE (CUZCO is
at 10,086 ft - or 3326 metres) - not easy in my condition!!
Unfortunately, I didn't 'make it' to the toilet, - just to my front door. Judicious hot-water washing, followed the
cleaning by toilet-paper - and things were then OK, some only requiring drying! In this leisure-day, I also walked
to the SanFrancisco Plaza and the SanFrancisco church.
The Santa Clara church has its road too overcowded with people for my liking. Its roads and cloisters near the
hotel smell TOO strongly of URINE. The entrance to my room has a smoky smell too!
Also, I took the lift to the first floor for a SPRITE drink - followed my my taking of a fantastic CHICKEN sandwich
presentation with that drink. It cost $7 in the hotel's restaurant, and just like at breakfast, there was a Radio2-like
programme but with a Peruvian DJ reminding me of the UK with his mixture of Ken Bruce and Terry Wogan styles!!
The BBC World News was on TV, later, in my own room, with more details and pictures of the main places hit
by the PERUVIAN Earthquake that hit AREQUIPA (where I left 3days earlier!) It was a very interesting place,
with a beautiful 'square' and a beautiful hill-side Hotel that I stayed at.
I got my cases etc sorted out and organised ready for tomorrow's BIG DAY (some to take with me, some to be
left behind!) We are OFF to MACHU PICCHU!!!
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