** PERU - IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF VON DANIKEN **
This is the 14 Oct 2004 Edition of
this page.
CHAPTER EIGHT
THE NAZCA LINES
28th June 2001 (Thursday)
I had been making HOURLY awakenings during the night - eventually arising at 4.45am., immediately
dressing and having breakfast - then a few minutes in my own room before descending to the 'lobby' at
5.40am for the 6.00am transfer to CUZCO airport. There was just 3 miles to cover in Cuzco (in the
van, driven by JULIO) before my arrival at the airport.
Julio's service at the airport was terrific - both before the baggage checkin - and during the guidance to
Gates 3 and 5.
The flight to LIMA was late being as the previous arrival and OUR departure (35 difference in the 'schedules')
were in B727-100s. The takeoff was further delayed, but en-route from my aisle seat (3C), I noticed that
the pilot was taking a cunning, curvy, zig-zag route so that passengers on both left and right hand sides of the
aircraft would get close-up looks at the nearby mountains.
The descent into LIMA was totally in clouds until we were at quite a low altitude. I had to wonder whether "low
altitude sickness" might manifest itself where ear-drums don't correct the pressures using the standard techniques.
It certainly seemed like it!!
Once into the hotel, the "EL OLIVAR", (which was different from the advertised list!), our guide told me to keep
the same vouchers for my later return trips. Our air mileage, today, from Cuzco to Lima had been 360 miles.
I, later, tried to find the new hotel and last week's map! When I'd done that, I tried to use the map (obviously not
produced by a Cartographer! - or any map-maker!!) which seemed 'impossible' as it represented some "artist's
impression" - but who?? It really was BAD!!
Eventually, I summoned up enough courage (or was it 'stupidity?) to use it to reach the PACIFIC OCEAN! In
retrospect, it would have been more useful if the 'pretend map-maker' had inserted at least 20 blocks extra to save
my 40 blocks EXTRA WALK!
I changed $10 (US) for 34 sols at the EL OLIVAR (the same exchange-rate as earlier!). As soft drinks were too
dear at this hotel, I found my old SUPERMARKET and got a basket-load of 'goodies' for 14.38 sols just like
any other 'local'. I had a meal from a small fraction of it, before 15.20hrs. I then relaxed on my bed and found a
demo by "Agora Popular Juvenile" (which was against 'Gas Commercialisation'!!)
Two delegates from the hall (in our hotel) then paraded alongside them to put the opposite case (and reasons)
with one banner! Then some members of the 'popular front' intercepted the vision of ALL delegates by parading
in front of their banner with balloons! All the time, the police kept at a discrete distance. (All this was viewed from my
hotel windows).
I layed on my bed and snoozed off, before awaking 'dreamlike'at 17.50hrs with cheering, political rally-calls and
clapping from the outside. It seemed to me like a new day - but it really was the SAME day, and I'd dozed off for
an unknown time! During this 'dream like state', I was fully clothed - but at 18.05hrs, I changed into my pyjamas -
with all this loud-hailing STILL going on! I got into bed soon afterwards.
My first reawakening was at 1.00am tomorrow morning - for ablutions!
29th June 2001 (Friday)
I got up and dressed by 6.50, preparing myself and paperwork (etc) for today's trip from LIMA to ICA
(by 'car' with a guide!). During my extensive breakfast, I watched extensive film and video on the
breakfast-room TV. This covered both my destination and the DEVASTATION in the AREQUIPA
EARTHQUAKE - which hit there 3 days after I left the place!!!
It had flattened and destroyed so much, that it was difficult to recognise anything - including my favourite
spots there! I went back to my room and updated my notes until 7.48am.. I checked out from my LIMA hotel -
and also checked whether any messages had been left for me. There were none, so I carried on regardless. The
'girls' had left no EMail address either!
I couldn't, therefore, send them my photos to check before insertion on the internet - so I'll just have to
make the modifications as requested by Rhoda earlier. I have found other Irish woman (whether from the North
or South) rather over-sensitive and more 'curious' than normal in these matters!
Anyhow, RODOLFO and his driver turned up at 8.30am - and I have a 'van' as my 'private car' for the whole
journey to ICA.
Enroute, we made several stops, including those for :-
(a) PACHAAMAC ruins
(b) various city squares (inc ICA et al)
(c) City Tour of ICA and the OASIS hotel - for a drink
(d) LAS DUNAS (where tomorrow's flight leaves from)
The driver made the journey very pleasurable and safe and should be complimented on this - but, unfortunately,
neither spoke nor understood ENGLISH as good as Rodolfo!! After ICA, we drove about 36KM outside of
town to reach the OCUCASE Hotel - which is MILES from anywhere and in the middle of a desert!!
BRUNO, not a full-time employee, gave us the history of the place - and, later, RODOLFO and I walked
around the site together and made our plans for tomorrow. Today's distance in the VAN had totalled 223 miles.
Back in my room, I found the light switches (after a long search!) and wrote up my notes before going to bed.
30th June 2001 (Saturday)
Here, I had the "world's smallest" (my designation!) Continental Breakfast. It consisted of 1 roll, 1 butter, 1 jam,
1 fruit-juice and 1 undrinkable very strong coffee. To add a bit of substance to this meal, I added a 'scrambled
egg' - which they added a surcharge, later, of 8 Sols!! That was a 'bad start for the day'!!!
RODOLFO took me on a tour of the hotel's "winery" (he also bought some!) and then we set off , with our
driver, to the DUNAS HOTEL's Airstrip, but not until after Rodolfo got some more wine (from an 'out of the way'
BODEGA) for his wife's birthday!
Bad visibility meant the postponing of our flight (in a CESSNA) until after the conditions improved. The tightness of
the plans for one couple meant that they had to be flown back to LIMA!! Our van's mileage to this point had been
about 26 miles. The airport's delay continued, as NAZCA didn't clear up. However, they announced that some
nearer 'equivalent lines' are closer AND clear of fog! I then paid the $5 AIRPORT TAX for takeoff!!
Having made friends with some English speaking passengers, I then went to board a large Cessna-type aircraft
with them. Unfortunately, I was told, that I'd have to join another group. Unfortunate because they turned out to
be speaking an 'alien language' - and so did the pilot. This was all CONTRARY to our contract!!! I told the pilot
that I needed 'English' - but never got it! The headphones/intercom (?) didn't work and were completely 'dead',
so the pilot spoke FULL VOLUME in his alien language as we approached the appropriate area.
We flew out at a gradually increasing altitude on a climb to less than 5000ft. There were sharp turns and 'aerobatics'
between 5000' and 3000' (and SICKNESS!!) that were the main features of this HELL-RIDE. Being in the co-pilot's
seat, I could make use of the instruments available to the pilot - to decide beween the OUTSIDE vision and the
INTERNAL stomach confusion. Being used to my own simulators instumentation, I could readily interpret (in the
brain) what we were REALLY doing compared with the stomach's and the eyes' confusion!
We flew back to 'base' at 6000', making a steep descent on 'final approach', with great increase in the flap-angle
(up to 30 degrees!) which brought on the SICKNESS again! We had a perfect touchdown exactly on the
THRESHOLD after about 185 airmiles in this CESSNA.
Fortunately, I was able to make a short 'recovery' before the van took us back in the LIMA direction. We had only
covered 128 miles before the van broke down (with a dangerously HOT engine) while we had still about 100Km to
go! My guide said "Now we can see how ordinary people travel!" So he made a few inquiries about the buses, the
frequency with which they ran - and the local taxis.
Thus, we got a taxi for the 3mile trip to the local bus-station - and the buses to LIMA were every few minutes (for the
63mile journey). Now, for a POOR(??) country, this bus was PURE LUXURY, far better than FIRST CLASS Air
Travel. My guide and I got a seat on the left-hand side, three-quarters of the way back - and sat in our double-seat
with very plush furnishings all around and had our own IN-FLIGHT movies on the seat's TV (above our head!)
Unfortunately, I couldn't understand the dialogue on the screen, - but my guide was very amused with it. Arriving in LIMA
at the bus-station there, we caught a taxi back to our hotel (about 5 miles), arriving there at 20.20hrs. I was to
occupy Room 253 this time! I wrote up a few of my notes - and got an EARLY NIGHT!! I needed it!!
( ... to continue in Chapter nine!!)
EMail to:
Roy's Location.
Return to PERU Index
or return to 7.Cuzco agin!!
for full list
of books etc either finished or under preparation.