++ FABULOUS RUSSIA ++

(Page dated 12 May 2005)



                                               CHAPTER TWO

                        THE BEAUTIFUL SQUARE

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     "Alright Clever-Dick, what's this beautiful square? Russia isn't known for that sort 
of thing!!", I hear you say. True, we in the West have got a distorted picture about 
Russia - and probably the whole of the previous USSR!!

     There used to be a Square with the name 'Beautiful' in the last century, I learned, 
from one of our guides there. They said the name, in Russian as well, and at about the 
turn of the Century, it got transposed to a similar Russian word, sounding and looking 
very similar. That other word, in English, is RED. So the Beautiful Square became Red 
Square! The name was preserved, in English as well as Russian, with the advent of the 
Bolshevik Revolution and control of the State.

     I first entered "Red Square" on the 21st May, a Sunday, and they were RIGHT, it 
still is a BEAUTIFUL SQUARE. Unfortunately, the TV visions, undoubtedly seen all over 
the world, are of marching troops, trundling tanks and missiles - and large military 
parades. Nevertheless, nowadays it is just another 'square' for tourists and residents 
alike. It isn't a small square like the one that contains the Trevi fountain in Rome 
(also beautiful) - or like the medium sized (fantastic) "Grand Place" in Brussels 
(my previously viewed 'best square') -  but a massive area with different features on 
each side. I'll go into each of these later, - but for now, I'll just record that even 
'large' squares CAN be, and ARE, beautiful, - maybe for different reasons! The atmosphere 
of this great arena-like square was also something to behold.

     I recorded the fact in my diary at the time that "This is the most beautiful square 
that I've ever seen - leaving the Grand Place of Brussels in another class!!" I wandered 
free-style, just like in Brussels, and the early heat of May was quite sweltering. The 
beautiful flowering gardens of St Basil's (I've waited so long to see that alone - never 
realising that it would ever be possible) at the South end of the square towards the 
river. In St Basil's grounds, the lilac trees  were visually beautiful - and the best 
smelling ones that I've ever encountered. That all added to the atmosphere, through the 
nose as well as the mind and heart.
N.E Corrner.
Central Lenin Museum(on N.E. Corner)


As I say, I first visited this beautiful square on the Sunday, on the day that, as a Group, we would get our sights and impressions of this world-renowned place. The following day, when Russians were back at work, and after we had made a very long visit to the Kremlin grounds and buildings, we were given a fair degree of choice as to what each individual wanted to do. Some stayed at one of the large buildings in the Kremlin for a Religious Music Show, some wandered where their fancy took them - and I wandered where my fancy took me - back to the Beautiful Square!!! That gave me another one and three quarter hours in this piece of heaven.
St Basil's.
St Basil's Cathedral at South End of Square.


Meanwhile, lets not get ahead of ourselves too much; - let's go back to 21st May!! My first awakening on my first day in Russia was by noises from in the corridor outside the cabin. This was before 7.30 am, in 'the quiet hours'. "Maybe", I thought, "this is the 'first- sitting' people going for their morning visit to the bar for a coffee before breakfast!" I decided that was a great idea, if true, and went to join them. I had a conversation with a very friendly American couple during our first breakfast, and was later joined by an English couple. We all realised that we were not in our assigned or prescribed meal-tables until later. We would then have our own tables from there on!! After breakfast, I picked up my packed lunch and readied myself for the great unknown. I will be on 'Bus 6' and Lydia will be our courier on that bus. Intourist wasn't out to create a marvellous impression as our bus had a cracked windscreen. (So did most of the others - it being quite common!) The coach may not have been 'great' but it passed some world-famous places on the way to the world-famous 'Red Square'. We passed the 'Moscow Dynamo' football stadium which I recall from the Billy Wright's days. We also went to the 'Moscow Underground' which I mentioned in Chapter One. After the 'Metropolitan' we dashed off around town and passed the exterior of the Bolshoi (taking a photo on the move!) and then past the KGB Building. I recognised this with its now removed statue which was toppled as we watched on TV a few years earlier. Thus, not stopping, I was forced to take another shot 'on the move' (the coach being caught in traffic, fortunately was almost stationary). We also got near, and passed, the Kremlin but we were to visit this incredible place on another day - and is covered elsewhere in this book. On this particular day, we just got exterior views from across the river. That meant that a few more photos were taken!! Then, just across a bridge, and there appeared St Basil's Cathedral (as if in a dream!) and we were at 'The Beautiful Square'. We were allowed a three-quarter-hour wander-around free-style in this place that had been barred from me for my whole life. It was pure magic to be there. I just wandered around seeing everything from every angle - and taking many photos. I wanted to take away a complete record so that this 45 minutes could be expanded into many hours when back home. The temperature was sweltering - and didn't we all think that Russia is a COLD country?? Wrong!! Now I know why I had to have a whole 5-month course of injections It was a case of trying to find some shade for relief from the heat. In the heat, the aroma from the lilac trees in St Basil's grounds were enhanced. Those trees acted like a scented magnet for visitors from all nations. One would oblige others by taking their photos with their own cameras - and they would return the compliments. I remember snapping a couple of American girls with St Basils in the background and they did the same for me. That is what foreign travel is all about for most single (and many married) people. After a mind-blowing experience such as this we were then whisked off in our mobile oven (known to the Russians as a coach!) and saw a number of other sights which I have covered elsewhere in the book. Later, when we were returned to the City on the afternoon of 22nd May at about 2pm (after the Kremlin visit) we had one and three-quarter hours to do with as we pleased. Some chose to go to a Religious Music Show but I chose to spend time at and explore 'Red Square' even further. I had a further hour and three quarters for this mini-expedition!! I could relax under the shade of the trees adjacent to the Kremlin walls for my refreshments and note writing. Here, I was facing, just across the Red-Square entrance, the beautiful St Basil's Cathedral. Naturally, I took more photos. Later I proceeded for walks around Red Square, Lenin's Tomb, the GUM building, the History Museum, the Lenin Museum, the Kremlin walls and trees - and once more to my favourite 'box of candies' - St Basil's again. What a beautiful site that makes with its outstanding architecture, not to mention its surrounding beautifully perfumed and blossomed trees. All too soon, 3.40pm, it was time to rejoin my coach and return to the boat - which we did by 4.30pm. The changes around here are very frequent - as our guide, Lydia, had mentionned. I got involved with long chats with a fellow-explorer, Joan (from Seattle) who works as a part-time travel-agent and psychiatric nurse. She certainly loves to travel!! Also, later, I got into conversation with a retired American lawyer - but our 'topic' was the 'Russian Exchange Rate and their economy'. I took my normal table for the evening meal with Eric (a Russian speaking Yorkshireman), Al Pastor (an ex-military-pilot for the USA although born in Europe) and Priscilla (Al's wife). In the evening, I chose to make my first visit to a Russian music show (there were many later) - and that was in the Moscow outskirts and called "Russian Fantasy". It involved a trio with lead-accordion, backing guitar, very soft drums - plus about 10 dancers, four singers and a gymnast!! It cost $18 and lastest an all-too-short 45 minutes. The coach returned to our boat by an unusual way, via the other side of the river and canal. It was more pleasant countryside that way. I took an evening stroll around our part of Moscow but got back about 10.30 ish!
Let's carry on the way by going to Zagorsk!!

or return to Russian index for reorientation.


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