++ FABULOUS RUSSIA ++

                                   Chapter Four

                      The Moscow Canal to start of Volga River

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     In the late afternoon of 23 May, we prepared to leave Moscow on our boat via the
Moscow-Volga Canal. It would be an evening cruise along the canal until we joined the
Volga - and the canal is as long as those of Suez and Panama!

     Knowing what English canals are like, and driven by misinformation and impressions
from the UK, I was fully expecting canals even grottier than the industrial ones in the UK.

     Nothing could have been further from the truth!! I remained at the front of our vessel
during its departure from Moscow and its trip northwards along the canal. I was there about
an hour, lapping up the beautiful sights over several kilometres and a couple of bridges. The
canal from Moscow, northwards, is beautiful like a winding river with silver birches over
banks on either side (called "Deep Hollow" in Russian).

     On returning to my cabin, I showed friends David, Non and May over it. There were
several amusing comments about the "Massage Advert" displayed in my room!! After the
evening meal, we went to a presentation by the Captain and Crew (all being introduced) and
partook of champagne plus the "bread & salt" custom. I joined many friends on deck during
the beautiful evening northwards, chatting before and after the first lock (which took an hour 
and a half  to get through!). This was the first of very many  locks (on canals & rivers) that we
encountered on this journey. A journey of a lifetime - but taking a fortnight!!

     After arriving back in my cabin, it was necessary to wash all the mosquitoes and other
insects out of my hair (what little that I've got left). As the boats in Russian canals and other
places descend into the depths at 'locks' en route, - it becomes meal-time for every insect in
this hot Country!  Yes - HOT!! That was a further misimpression obtained from adverse UK
propaganda. Russia certainly was NOT cold, was plagued by insects and that explained the 
multi-month course of injections that I had to "go through" before departure.

     After washing was complete, I looked out of the cabin window and we appeared to
have stopped. I thus went out to investigate and chat with some Americans. We are now in
the second lock and watched our exit from it. When in bed, later on, I had occasional looks
through the curtains, overnight, and could detect movement. Sometimes, there were lights and
some different views - but sometimes it was pitch-black!

     However, in the last few hours of the night, it was revealed that we are still near the
same clump of trees and have been static for hours!

     Wednesday, 24th May 95, dawned and, after 7.30a.m, I got up and looked at this view
- presumably this is the exit of the canal's last lock - and we've reached the Volga!? There
are all sorts of craft waiting here and we are about 300yards below these great locks. People
are fishing as everywhere in Russia! I had my usual complimentary coffee in the bar.

     Next, I attended this morning's first lecture (well, informative talks and chats!), these
being the personal views of Professor Anatoly Ivanov on Russian life. He is neither right nor
left wing in his views, being, in my judgement, a true Liberal. He compared Russia before
and after Glasnost etc.. Both positive and negative aspects of their change were given - as
well as making National and International comparisons. After this very informative and
entertaining presentation, I went outside on deck, took photos of other boats on the canal and
locks.  WHY are we only passing Lock No2 ?? Have I misread the sign or misunderstood my
reference book?  No2 doesn't correlate with the 130 (Km) marker!

     One woman passenger had heard some information that I'd missed, like "We expect
to be at the Volga at 2pm" (a substantial delay from the 7a.m. figure)! I decoded where we
were, with another Englishman, from a good guide-book.  What had happened last night is
that a dense fog had descended on us, and to prevent anyone from crashing into anybody else
- even on a canal - all traffic was stopped!! REAL SAFETY - but real delays.

     In the light I saw two little children on a sand-filled barge playing in that sand. Are
these the 'new elite' offspring in Russia with their own private beach?  Daddy's barge!! I just
had to photograph these for the memories.  



    We left Lock No1 (the entrance to the Volga) at 12.50pm - just over 7 hours late.

     To the left, as we entered, I looked at the hydroelectric scheme through binoculars.
Then, when we had entered the mighty Volga ("Little Mother Volga" - as she is affectionately
called) I could look at both banks of this impressive river. This is the first time in my life that
I'd encountered this legendary river - and we'd be with it for several days now.