Chapter Five

                          THE MUSIC OF JAROSLAVL

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     Progressing down the Volga, I put a new 35mm film in my camera and observed
Dubna, the science town, as it passed by. Then I attempted to correlate our views with the
text in the journey's guide brochure. I tried this, with varying degrees of success at Kimry,
Beloye, the Khotcha River, St George's Church, etc..

     A friend, May, one of the travellers on this expedition, chatted with me at the rear of
level three of the boat. I also chatted with people of several nationalities before the evening
meal, - then at dinner with Eric (from Leeds) plus Priscilla and Al (from the USA) who were
at my table. I went to some Russian Dance lessons, but only watched and chatted with a
French Group.

     I  then indulged in conversations with some American people about the USA &
England and visits that we had all made.

     There is a very, very calm mirror-like Volga now - which was accentuated as it got
dark later towards 11pm.. We went through the Uglich Lock which was of enormous depth
and which we entered, - with trepidation!! The trepidation was due to the known properties
of such Locks and the mosquitoes which frequent them. I brought my mosquito-cream into
use for the very first time here - and it proved to be very effective indeed.

     Bear in mind that the mosquitos, anxious for a good meal, lurk in the locks where the
boats, with human cargoes aboard, are known to stop where the waters change levels. As they
pounce on their human targets, or preferably just before, we higher-intelligence humans
counter these attacks with counter-measures which involve such thins as creams, sprays and
(like the French did here!) with burning coils like incense burners! As I say, this was very
effective at keeping a large "no-go-area" for mosquitos around each human target, or
collection of targets.

     Once through this Lock, I retired to bed, on board, and went to sleep.

     I was awakened by a 'tyre screech' sound - just as in Norway on my Arctic Adventure!
It was quite light despite being only 3.50am. Ideal time for a toilet visit. Afterwards, I then
returned to my cabin window with reduced external lights -  as we descended into a very deep
concrete canyon. On exit, there was another very deep one by its side. Were these the parallel
locks (Nos 11 and 12) of the Rybinsk Hydroplant as indicated in my book "Russia by River"?
If so, it was a drop of 14 metres!! I stopped writing and then started wondering and admiring
the views from the window - and then tried to get back to sleep. It needed the Air
Conditionning to rid the cabin of the smells of sweat PLUS the "anti-mosquito cream"!!

     It made sense to get up at 7 am, strip-wash, tidy up, walk around the boat and prepare
for Yaroslavl. There we were greeted in the early morning air by the delicious sounds of a
Traditional Jazz band on the promenade. They received a  thunderous applause from the boat


at the end of their 'number'. I took some photos from on  board at the bow end of our craft.
More photos were also taken as I started a walking-tour of this delightful place - including
such items as boats, promenade, church, belltower - before proceeding to the Elijah Church
(Orthodox - with no seats!) plus the administrative buildings on the very large 'square'
(actually a 'circle') - taking photos of each part of this attractive 'square'. 

     Then, I went to an area for relaxation (also for the amusement of local residents)
overlooking the Volga and its Kotorosl tributary. Like some places in Germany, it displayed
their "bear emblem". I had a long chat with our local guide ( Nina Shmekova by name) on
the coach. She's been to England and various other places - but now lives in Yaroslavl.

     One of the main attractions in this place (I'm beginning to love it much more now!) -
 is its fabulous Folk Music show with a nice semi-pro act (Skomoroshyna), playing with
several mandolins (from treble down to bass) and various percussion instruments.


 Like in the UK at Country Music venues, I got a front seat here in Yaroslavl and took many
 photos from this vantage-point. I also bought an audio tape of them for 10 US dollars after 
the show. A very memorable experience!!!

     A visit to the Monastery 'was called for' before we 'coached' back to the boat. The
jazz-band was still, on the quay,  playing beautiful Dixie-land tunes. A fellow-traveller, May,
with an east-London accent, in response to my questions, said that she lives near Clacton
which is in Essex (not too far from where I was born!).

     As the boat pulled out of Jaroslavl, the Jazz Band "played us out". What a 'great'
feeling that was! We had a relaxation on the boat in the middle of the Volga during its hour
and a half of refuelling. We also indulged in some food which included 'Blini' (a sort of
pancake), two sorts of caviar - plus Vodka. That took us a further hour and a half until
4.30pm..

     We moved off at 5.15pm in beautifully clear, but VERY hot, weather. I did the
'English thing' of buying cards and stamps and writing to friends back in the UK..

     Yaroslavl was now a bit behind us (unfortunately). Our main waitress (FAINA) who
serves us every day along the route, for all meals, made sure that we ate well. After that
meal, we went to see a show done by the passengers and crew - a truly International show.
I walked around the ship chatting with May, breaking off for binocular views, from the boat,
of the periphery of the Volga waters.

     These waters, still calm, wide and beautiful, project a very tranquil scene.

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