Chapter Eight

                        .... via Riverside villages

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     As we pulled-out from Beautiful Kostroma, I conversed with an English couple, on
deck. Whilst the language was easily understandable, I had the uncomfortable impression that
they were Tories. I could have been wrong, because the dialogue's content (as opposed to the
accent), put them in the running for all other Parties. I took some photos of Kostroma from
the Volga, but alas, it's the last I'll see of the place for a long while

     I  later talked to another English couple, the husband having made previous visits over
the years with 'exchanges' or 'twinning' arrangements. He was obviously very impressed with
the Country - and I was to meet him later (at Pushkin) - talking to the natives in their own
tongue. A very interesting couple from the 'north'.  Nice people!!

     Then I got a seat with May, chatting about our walk and thanking her for her
company.  After that , I soaked up the scenery in a solo fashion - before joining, on Deck 4
at the stern, Don Hartman of Evansville, Indiana, again. He is a retired Civil Engineer and
very proud of his State and his old job. 

     Then I went solo again and read some of the "Moscow Times" which I had
collected whilst on-board. A good evening meal followed, during which time I had an
enthralling set of conversations with my table-mates Eric, Priscilla and Al.

     Then, on board, I took in half an hour of the Jazz programme. I restricted it to that
because there was no Traditional (New Orleans) style - but a predominant 'Modern Jazz', from
the 40's and 50's. There was a film starting, albeit a little later than expected, and it was a
'Western'.  Good, I thought!!  However, the feelings soon disappeared because even THAT
had no music, a bad script and bad actors - so I left.

     Released from that room, I then proceeded to the 5th deck on the port side, and very
pleasantly, watched the sun set  - along with a group of other passengers (mostly French). We
watched it set on the west bank of the Volga - just South of Yaroslavl. Memories of this town
were rekindled. Very pleasant ones, too, as we passed its various 'landing stages' and its river
frontage. Many people were all over its 'front', apparently just to see us go by!!

                                   O-o-O

     Sunday, 28th May, crept up on us. Well, not so much crept. It threw itself as us!!
Apart from the roar of the Air-conditionning, there was also a roar from outside the cabin.
It sounded like a very strong wind, so I drew the curtains aside and witnessed the new scene.
The calm Volga had  NOT  been replaced by choppy waters. We were in a deep concrete
canyon - firing the retro-thrust engines as we edged into one of the locks of the Rybinsk
Hydroplant. I put the light on to write some more notes - as it was only 4 a.m.. After that,
it seemed more natural to turn the lights off and open the curtains. That way I could witness
our rapid rise as the giant lock filled up.  Lights then went on for more note-writing, - then
off again for watching the scene outside the cabin window.

     As we came into the lighter and clearer areas, by looking at the trees and waters, it
was clear  that there was NO wind at all. Furthermore, we are accompanied in this 'canyon'
by swooping and circling gulls. They obviously love this fun in these giant locks.

     Next, the boat accelerates out of the Rybinsk reservoir and, from the right hand lock,
I can see the left hand lock up through the massive dam. A central dividing bank  means that
each lock has its own mooring points in its own 'canal'.  A giant cargo boat is just waiting
to use the one that we are exiting from! At the end of this dividing bank, there is a statue
(might be marble - but I can't tell) of a lady offering a beckoning hand out into the reservoir. 
(It looks like the Statue of Liberty holding a different pose!!) Further on, still only 4.32 a.m,
another cargo barge was apparently racing, under full forward power, in the direction of these
locks. This 'secret' project by Stalin that flooded 700 villages in the 1940's occupies 4500
square Kilometres and has 60 rivers joining it. Hey Roy!! Hadn't you better stop writing and
get some sleep?? After replenishing my tupperware beaker from a bottle of water in the
refrigerator, I had a quick slurp, turned the lights 'off' - and then went to bed again.

     Very eager for the day ahead, I got up and prepared myself just after 7.30 a.m.. I
commenced this day's activities with a 'walkabout' on Deck 4, taking in the vastness of the
Rybinsk reservoir, which is also like a 'sea' - although, I notice,  one can always 'just see' 
the land.

     I then continued with the complimentary pre-breakfast coffee in the bar and chatted
to three other English people. A little more interior photography filled in some crucial gaps
in my records. I later went for breakfast whilst we were in the north-east arm if the giant
reservoir - just before we entered the Sheksna River.

     Whilst having a slow walk, for sightseeing from Deck 4, I was delayed for a long chat
with Al Pastor. Al was always very interesting. Not only is he one of my table-mates, but he's
an ex-USA-pilot with a very wide range of recall. We spoke about our common interests in
Aviation, World Land Speed Records, athletics etc.. We carried right on - up until 11 a.m.. 
Thereafter, I got involved in chats with David, from South Wales,  until 11.45a.m.. I had
made friends with Dave and his wife, Non, at least as far back as in the check-in queues in
Moscow airport. The Sheksna River is a long way from there!!

     At 12 noon, I went into the 'movie hall' on Deck 5 where we all enjoyed the lecture
(a very good-humoured talk) by Anatoly Ivanov. This wonderful guy, an excellent speaker
in the English language with wonderful splatterings of American and English humour,  spoke
on the changes in Russia since glasnost - and in particular about the increases in organised
crime since then - and its relationship to the political changes. It was a splendid analysis - 
and a very entertaining talk!! This was his second talk , so he left 'trailers' for  his third one.
We were all very pleased about that , and we eagerly awaited this forthcoming performance.
It should be excellent.

     We progressed up the beautiful  Sheksna River. It was enhanced by its beautiful
borders, banks and islands. The meal-time was during this part of the voyage and was
completed whilst we were in a yet another lock!

     It was a pleasure to watch the scenery drift by along the river. At one stage when
crossing to the other side, another boat lazily  passed us by.  Even more interesting was the
presence of another riverside village. This was IRMA which we arrived at an hour and a half
early at 3.30pm. We were due to have a picnic-meal at this place but that was not to be until
7.0pm!! We were free to 'do-our-own-thing' until then, so a rambling exploration seemed to
be appropriate to me. "Roaming over the hill and the village would be nice" I thought.
Fortunately, so did May again. This walk took part in the heat of the day (late afternoon in
northern Russia!) so I put some Mosquito-cream on for protection. May did not. 

     We returned to the boat several times before the barbecue started - actually at 6.30pm..
Just as well that we had returned earlier than the scheduled 7pm!! What a fabulous meal,
fabulously presented.



 I went round twice for the Russian Shashlyk, which, for the uninitiated,
is their version of  'shish kebabs' - fantastic!! I also went round twice for the wine, the
cucumber, - and everything else for that matter!!!



     It was 'back to the cabin' at about 8pm - but it was difficult tearing oneself away from
the beautiful live music which played on the banks of the Sheksna River during and after the
barbecue. Not only music, but all the friends (both male and female) were chatted with in a
very  convivial atmosphere.  This we continued until the Russ's departure.

     I observed the River Sheksna, on and off, for quite a while - until it looked quite
different. It showed a dramatic widening - but was more than its normal self. It was in
FLOOD - the Sizminsky flooded area!! After that very broad watery vista, I returned to my
cabin at 11.15pm for making notes and acquiring sleep - in that order!!

     I awoke much later than normal the following day (29:May:95). In fact it was my
latest awakening on this holiday. A slammed door caused me to wake up, so I looked through
the curtains and saw the light scene at 6.55am.. It was somewhat wilder there, still very neat,
still very warm and sunny. The trees were very much closer to the boat and we were, quite
obviously, on the Kovzha River part of the Volga-Baltic Canal. It is really a flooded forest
where we are traversing along a wide gouged-out path. It certainly looks very attractive and
natural. Some of the naked silver trunks indicate vast numbers of still-standing dead trees.

     News on the radio speaks of a bad earth-quake in eastern Russia with many deaths on
an island ( Sakhula - I think they said!). With a tragedy like that, the comparative relaxation
as we drifted through this forest-waterway was accentuated. Approaching 7.15 a.m.,  I then
got dressed  to go up on deck for a full 360-degree view  and some lovely fresh air.

     At 7.36 a.m, there were beautiful views from on-deck as we headed northwards with
the Kovzha River drifting slowly southwards. The river, though deep I guess, has some rapids
near some of its banks. These are sometimes over stones - but often over mud!! When the
Russ's wash hits the down current, the two opposite motions reminded me of a smaller (about
one foot only) bore on the River Severn south of Gloucester back in England. I then decided
to indulge in the lounge's complimentary-coffee. Nice and easy does it!

     Whilst drinking the coffee, I noticed that about half-a-dozen gulls were following the
'bore', but when they got ahead of it, they touched down on the mudbanks until the water
drove them off. The gulls circled away - then rejoined the others in their bore-following fun.

     Once the 'bore' finished, the birds lost interest. So did I!! However, on checking the
other bank of the river from the other side of the boat, another bore-like phenomenon
appeared, - this time accompanied by three gulls.

     On the port side (West Bank) I saw a deserted ghost-town of wooden shacks, piles of
old wood, two cranes - and I pondered as to why it became deserted. It was a settlement of
considerable size.

     At this time, we were about 500 kilometres north of Moscow with a temperature
approaching 24 degrees Centigrade (well, that's what Oleg said on the radio with its P.A
system - and it would be 27 degrees in the afternoon!!)  Today was the deadline for signing
up for the ballet in St Petersburg. Not for performance auditions, you understand!!

     Oleg, our only Radio announcer on the craft, had, to me, a very curious use of the
word "about". He was quite precise with these "about"s. For example he'd say that "It is about
23 minutes to breakfast, give the Centigrade temperature to the nearest degree and the
Fahrenheit temperature to an "about" tenth of a degree accuracy. He, at this time, as our disk-
jockey, played a familiar tune with unfamiliar words. It was the first time in my life (no, -
the ONLY time in my life) that I've heard Judith Durham's "The carnival is over" sung by
a Russian man. Intriguing! Great!!!

     Up on deck, I finished another reel of film - up the Kovzha River. The right bank has
a saw-mill and a  factory with freight boats plying to and from them via a tributary to the
Kovzha. The saw-mill is on a junction with lots of activity. Some of the buildings have been
refurbished. It's quite a hive of activity - especially considering that they are out in the middle
of a forest by a river!! A little later on, still on the right bank, there were fair-sized shanty
towns, so, perhaps they provide the work-force for the hive of activity at the mill and factory.

     We had an hour's party-time (10.30-11.30 a.m.) in which we had a buffet, tea, pastries
and general tasting of Russian food and hospitality. This was all on-board the 'Russ' in the
Movie-hall on Deck 5. I wasn't interested in their tea - but the pastries certainly drew me -
back time and again for multiple helpings. As well as being an attractive 'spread', it tasted
fabulous. I only wished that I'd brought my camera to this set of eye-ball pleasures.

     There are trays of Cognac Brandy, but, even though I'm not an alcohol drinker, I
thought that "I might as well"!! It was great. International goodwill was flowing freely!!
Being closer to the front this time (unlike the previous night) I got an early share of
everything - making a second round for pastries and Cognac - and that went down very well!!
There being a fair amount left after that, and feeling rather peckish, I made a third round
quite soon (Cognac only!) -  and got several laughs from an English speaking audience when
I related to them that "I'm a teetotaller, a mild diabetic and on a diet! What am I doing
wrong? There must be something!!"

     Following that festive time with food and drink, I returned to my cabin for relief and
freshening-up for the next (i.e. third)  Anatoly Ivanov lecture. What a great guy! To me, he
seems a true Liberal with a very personally likeable manner and personality. Not only that,
he's got my haircut and style (i.e. virtually bald!!)

     Anatoly's talk was about the 'strong'  Russian leaders of the extremes and the 'weak'
leaders of the centre - the democrats! There are quite a few democrat leaders, each with
personal ambitions, intelligence and policies - but it seems that they will not merge. Like in
the UK and many parts of the world, it seems that electoral reform is essential if the
multitude of 'central parties' (not necessarily 'Centralist'!) are to be represented in Government.

     As we emerge from his long,  interesting talk at 1pm, we found ourselves in the
middle of Lock No 6. This could be the Pakhomovsky Hydroplant that I found in my
reference booklet for the journey.  If so, this massive canyon drops us well over 50 feet.  We
dropped to a height of about 80 metres above Lake Onega and 112 metres above St.
Petersburg!!

     I was now due for a nice big lunch at 1.30pm (I used to call the midday meals 'dinner'
- as we ALL used to, back in my childhood days). During that meal, we were going through
the narrow Lock No5 whilst I chatted with another friend. By 2.50pm, we were descending
via Lock No4. It, too, was very narrow - with only about one foot clearance on one side  and
about six inches on the other!! That's CLOSE!!! I took a number of photos - like the view
of Lock3 from Lock4 - and looking back to Lock4 whilst someone else was about to enter.

     Locks 3, 4 and 5 form the Novinskiya Hydroplant through which there is a net 'level
change' of 38  metres. This is not pansy-engineering. It is man-size-stuff (apart from width
considerations! ). I got in conversation with 'Eric-the-injured' after our exit from Lock No3.
He had many questions on Malvern (my home-town) and on my family, which I proceeded
to answer.

     We then had a 'Geography Lesson'  from Oleg, between 4pm & 5 pm - and this was
a very clear overview of Russian Geography,  - not only the Physical geography! We then
were passing through Lock No2. Later, I was on Deck4 with David, Non, Al & Priscilla
chatting with them as we went through Lock No1 - in the Vytegra Hydroplant. We were
watching the river, its scenery and its peoples until the flood-plane appeared over the left-
bank.  I thought "Maybe this water is really Lake Onega - or the Onega canal!" It was
certainly a vast expanse of wetness.

     As 7.05pm crept up on us, we returned to our individual rooms for our preparations
for the welcome 7.30pm Dinner. It was a bigger  one  than usual - and was quite filling.

     As we got into the middle of Lake Onega, we could view the scenery over a wider
scale. Then many of us attended the Neptune Festival  on Deck No5, -but this clearly suffered
from a poor script, insufficient rehearsal, poor use of microphones - but it was 'fun enough'
for this obvious amateurish production from the combined staff and travellers of our ship.

     Looking into the lake after the show, then 9.45pm, it was still mirror-like with no
wind or choppiness. The clouds were well reflected as were the birds, rather stunningly. The
fantastic mirror of the water's surface left us all with very romantic feelings. Seemed a good
time to go to bed! Not yet Roy! After a little supper, I chatted with an English guy who was
doing some photography of the sunset - even after 10.50pm - when the sun still hadn't set!
We chatted on about Iceland, Norway and the atmosphere in these unusual latitudes. We had
the 'White Nights' here!! It's now bedtime, Roy, and tomorrow will see us at our most
northerly point on this expedition.