CHAPTER NINE

                           .... to Kizhi Island

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     We had departed from the Kovzha River, the Water Division Canal and the Vytegra
Canal yesterday (29th May '95) and entered Lake Onega yesterday evening, we were about
to find out what a boat-ride on such a large Lake entailed!

     This lake is the second largest in Europe (Lake Ladoga in a few days will be the
largest!) so we slept as we made our way northwards.  At 1.05 a.m, I woke up as we passed
a number of low small islands. With all this water about, a toilet visit was in order! Back to
bed, I re-awoke at just gone 3 a.m. and looked out of the window again. Again there were
several islands - and this time we appeared to be stationary. Re-awakening several times
overnight, I later realised that we were stationary. It was true - the scene hadn't changed since
the previous awakening. Either we are at Kizhi Island - or just anchored somewhere
convenient!!

     At 6.03a.m, I could wait no longer with expectation. I had to look out and investigate!!
I established that we were now double-parked with another boat. Nice view from my window.
I guess that this is the long-awaited Kizhi Island! It certainly looks like an island!! What do
we do at this early hour? On thinking about the possibilities, one could attend Olga's Aerobics
session at 7 a.m. - and, there again, there is the breakfast at 8 a.m.!!

     I decided to have a little shut-eye in my cabin before going on-deck in half an hour's
time. There was the early morning sunshine on our double-parked boat partner through my
cabin window. Later, at 7.25 a.m, I looked at my watch, dressed, went for my 'complimentary
coffee' and took it onto the deck overlooking the Island. There, I started chatting again to one
of my American friends (don't know his name but he's got a very good personality -  and has
done a bit of acting!!). After taking in the feel of the place, I decided it was now time for a
shave and a good breakfast. These I did!!

     Now, at last, it was time for a walk over the magical and mystical island of KIZHI!! 
Whooppee!! Sure, it's alleged to have poisonous snakes around - so one must be careful. To
save one constantly looking at where one is putting one's feet, the Russians have been very
considerate in providing wooden walkways directly on the ground (not raised several feet
above it!!) - and thus we can each concentrate on what is basically an 'open museum' of
wooden architecture. Predominantly, the buildings are functionning churches which have been
occupied since the 12th Century!!



     Highlights were the 22-domed cathedral of Transfiguration (whatever that implies for
religious readers!), which is regarded as the summer one, and the 10-domed Church of
Intercession (the winter one). I went in the latter building - although both of them were
spectacular. They are totally made from wood and (wait for it!) without a single nail. Nobody
knows how it was done because (at the very outset) they threw the drawings away to preserve
the security of the knowledge. These two churches were in a walled enclosure (wooden, of
course) - and, after exiting from this fabulous 'complex' (remember - 12th Century!)

      I headed off diagonally opposite my entrance point to a very large house. (Would you
believe that this was totally wooden too?). This building, we entered from the 2nd-floor level.
It had been built that way for a number of reasons, one of them being the prone-ness to
flooding there! The landing at that level was also useful for the ladies for spying-out talent
in the form of men-folk at sea (well, the lake!). Another reason for the high-level entrance
was because of frequent deep winter snows in the area. When the main front door was buried,
they could then go in at the next level! Apart from the conventional upper entrance for
people, there was also the ramped walkway for animals kept by the family - and also for
horses to take supplies in.



     The American-educated Russian guide spoke of the marks to attract sailors to the
potential-resident-brides. The whole village was shown in tremendous detail in the useful map
in the very useful book from the Malvern Library. It was the inevitable "Lonely Planet Guide"
for USSR (still relevant today) by J. Noble and J. King.

     Many other buildings were on the island and most appeared on the map. It hasn't
changed for many, many centuries!! It was (and still is!) a fantastic place. Naturally, the two
multi-domed all-wooden churches guarantee the island's inclusion in any book on Russia.

     We reluctantly left this magical environment late morning. All it needed was for the
double and triple-parked boats to separate and  let us out!! Chatting between all nationalities
on board, on Deck No4, after our departure proved that it had full international appreciation.
One couple with us currently manage the Centre for Alternative Technology just outside
Machynlleth in West Wales. That place, too, was most interesting, I having visited it with a
lady-friend a few years earlier.