CHAPTER TEN

                     The Arrival in St. Petersburg

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Back on board the 'Russ', after having attended a talk by Irina on Russian customs, traditions and holidays, which was very interesting, I went out onto one of the decks to view Lake Onega. It was very peaceful and calm - the maximum wave structure rising to a centimetre for its peak amplitude! Wow!! I'll have to guard against sea-sickness here!!

Back in my cabin, both with the air-conditionning (always for me at maximum COOLNESS) and the breeze through the open window, - there is a nice cooling effect. Outside the cabin, it was even nice and cool on the 'sunny side' of the boat.

By 12.50pm, the sea was becoming much smoother again - and the air-conditionning had to be adjusted for MORE cooling as there was a weaker effect with the weakish wind! Out on deck, I chatted with other passengers about KANTELE, before our visit to their 'show'. I'm getting quite excited about our visit to see them in action - as I've read quite a bit about them!

We had a biggish lunch, and mine was bigger - because my American friend, Priscilla, did not want some of her items. After lunch, we went out onto the landing stages to get to the bus. It was VERY HOT INDEED, and when our bus arrived, even those who LIKE the heat complained about it!! The main suggestion was to keep the bus MOVING for ventilation as there were no effective motors. The even better suggestion was that we could WALK instead of bussing to the 'centre' and the THEATRE!

Everything was VERY HOT, but our guide, a young female language student who was close to graduation and occupying a teaching post, said that , in spite of the current 30 degree temperature, it was snowing only 10 days ago!! "The high temperature is so unusual for this region", she said (and thanked us for bringing it!

The KARELIAN Song & Dance Ensemble (KANTELE) was the reason for our next visit - and they are featured in all the guide-books!

KANTELE's show was fantastic, starting with 19 instrumentalists, later varying it to 8, then 12 , then 16 dancers PLUS four to six singers. Varying their line-up continuously with any combination one dared to think of - the show was immaculately produced. Even down to solos
and duos, their one and a quarter hour show was terrific. I took a number of photos there, even buying their audio tape and getting their bio-handout.

Having gone back to my cabin to cool off and write some notes, I then decided to go to a nearby stall at the docks for some bananas and lemonade for inner refreshment. Just a few rubles!! Then I decided it was time for a walkabout around Petrozavodsk and covered some parks, a pop arena and visit to a lone ice-cream salesgirl nearby.

Following this, I returned to my cabin for more relaxation. This heat is quite tiring! After preparing for my evening dinner, I joined my friends there - and had a large dinner due to Priscilla not wanting much of hers! (She is the wife of my friend, Al Pastor.) Later we went along to the onboard Movie Hall for a Folk Concert on Deck No5 given by the resident semi-pros and pros. They were called RUS and included one male vocalist (with a beard and a balalaika), another male on vocals and guitar together with a male accordionist.

Later that evening, after the show, I retired to by cabin's Toilet/Washroom for the shower - a very welcome addition to the evening, - a then slipped into bed at just gone 11pm.!!

Wednesday morning, 31st May, arrived and at 00.02 hours, our boat backed out of the 'dock' at Petrozavodsk and then headed southwards on Lake Onega - during a 'white-night' dawn. I could hear people chatting out on deck somewhere - but I couldn't see them!! By 00.34hrs, we had docked with our refuelling ship on the Lake. So that's why we left the town two hours early!!?? The refuelling-supply ship is between my window and land - and therefore we must be facing North (i.e opposite to the direction expected!) By 01.00hrs, we were still docked with it. It was a very still scene here in the WHITE NIGHT on Lake Onega. Peaceful and tranquil.

However, the noisy air-conditionning unit prevented me from sleeping. Munching a banana seemed appropriate and enjoyable at that time. I kept some in the frig in the cabin!! As earlier during this trip - the bananas tasted better than those consumed in the UK. At 1.20am, We were still docked to our floating tanker - but at 1.42am the undocking manoeuvre took place. This was followed by an acceleration Northwards, a slow right turn - and then an acceleration Southwards! So, by 1.55am, we are on our way again.

After a 4.44am awakening, I found that we were still on Lake Onega. The sun had already risen in the sky and it was about ONE degree above the horizon. By 7.10am, I was 'up and dresssed' and listening to the World News on the radio (from the BBC's London World Service).

Taking an early stroll around decks 3 and 4 over a placid Lake Onega, I could see the Eastern Bank and its forest gliding by, whilst the sandy shores of the lake's Southern approach gave a pleasant, but contrasting, vista. The Western Shore was closer and even clearer. This was done whilst I partook of the complimentary coffee at a deck-table on the starboard side. LAKE ONEGA is the second largest lake in Europe - and, after the SVIR river (140 miles long) which I navigate later today, we'll be passing into Europe's LARGEST lake (LADOGA) this evening. Meanwhile, Onega looks so clear and fresh, being surpassed only by distilled water!!

Near the South West corner of the lake, it was so placid that forward motion was not perceptible - there being nothing to reference anything with. Only when a breeze started could our progress register itself. We entered the SVIR river at 8.20 a.m and breakfast began at 8.30a.m.. For me, it was a BIG meal, with not only cornflakes this time - but I had Priscilla's helping of a bread-pudding-like concoction. Furthermore I had her and my peanuts, too!!

I had a chat with a Londoner - who works at "John Lewis's" in Oxford Street - and between us, we sorted out the UK's problems and also the Russian finance problems from a tourist's point of view!!

Later, I checked for any correlation between the 'way-points' as marked in the "RUSSIA BY RIVER" booklet with the posts in the scenery itself. Most of the time, these appeared to be un-related, but at 1020Km there was an exact match!! I then went into the Hall (on board on Deck 5) at which Anatoly Ivanov's next session was to be. It was a very informative "Question & Answer" session, followed by two-way 'thank-yous' and the presentation of a 'cash-filled-envelope' by one English speaking attender like myself. We were all enthralled, amused, and now better-educated because of Anatoly!!

After the proceedings, we emerged onto the deck - just as we approached the UPPER SVIR LOCK. This is really part of a great "Hydroplant" - and later, at 1042Km, we became stationary. We had entered
this massive structure and then descended 24 metres (about 80 feet!) - which was the largest drop we've yet done. When we were approximately settled, and the lower gates of this 'lock' opened, a big surge of water, maybe only a few inches deep, swept up into this 'canyon'. How do they do that!? This diversion caused me to be about 10 minutes late for my meal - but "no problem!"


I then followed the river-bank's features and attempted to correlate these with the "guide notes" which I had been using!! I got a 'good fix' at the 1065Km spot, just before the two forest docks. Shortly after that I took two photos which were rear-view and side-views, respectively, of this forest-lined-section. Later, after talking to a large American woman, who, like me, seeks the cool and shade, I photoed the outside of 'Room 437' - on the corridor near the stairs leading to it.
That was my abode for the whole of the trip. [In 2001, in China on the Yangtze River, I found the same room and stairs in the sister-ship that I used there. "Sister" is not the exact word really - as the Germans "cloned" these craft in large numbers!!]

Then I changed THAT film for a 36-shot 35mm film. After fixing that, I made my way to the MOVIE HALL on Deck5 for their 'documentary' on "St Petersburg". The film (really a video!) was OK - but the screen was too LOW, the temperature TOO HOT and the commentary, with its profusion of DATES, effectively generated a "death by dates". It was far TOO HISTORICAL!! In the end, I did the same as many had done BEFORE me - i.e I walked out!!

I talked to a Londoner that I'd met earlier, the one who had stories of his "lucky to be alive" and "wish to see the world" categories!! We compared incidents and stories, with more sightseeing correlations. As we were going past 'Horse Island', our wash flooded over the marshy area at the western end of it.

OLEG, the Radio and PA announcer, pointed out with friendly conversation, that we are almost NEIGHBOURS (he's next door at Room 441). Later, I chatted with another English guy about the correlation (or lack of it) between the travel-book and reality! Today's stretches of river and waterway appear more natural, primitive and beautiful.

Our 'farewell' dinner was LARGER than normal, contained TWO sorts of CAVIAR (as part of the hors d'oeuvres), a beautiful SORREL SOUP with the beef, fancy orange biscuits and cream, ice cream, bananas etc.. Our "INTERNATIONAL TALENT SHOW" which followed, was essentially made up from two American guys (with stories) a geordie singer from Newcastle, some American spoof-singers (spirituals & barbershop styles). These were drawn from the passengers. After that, there was an American international-opera singer and her accompanist. They covered material from USA (Russian), French (Russian) and other Russian Opera 'goodies'.

Some FRENCH FOLLIES and gags, that followed, provided some good fun for the audience and all participants. We were now totally in LAKE LADOGA. I took a slow walk around Deck4, at 10.50pm, as the sun (in 'White Nights' mode!) was only about three quarters of a degree off setting - quite close to NORTH. Where else??

1st JUNE 1995 (Thursday)

This morning, I awoke at 02.17hrs and found that we were still on Lake Ladoga (it's VERY Large!). Even with the air-conditionning full ON (i.e. cooling!), I found it absolutely sweltering!! At 6.36 am, it was STILL sweltering and VERY 'CLOSE' in the cabin. Where does one go to get cool? This ought to be close enough to the Arctic!!

I'm glad that I'm SINGLE now! It looks as if we are in a river with steep-sided banks on the port side. A weak sun shines on this bank - and its a very rural setting! Hang on!! Behind this rural river-edge, there are now some tall chimneys of factories - some big buildings, cranes, a primitive DOCK etc..Still they can't hide the omnipotent Russian Forest Scene - the TREES win every time!!!

Barges continuously pass between us and the opposite bank. We are, of course, driving on the right as we head westwards on the RIVER NEVA. Looking at the schedule, we are soon to arrive at St. PETERSBURG (this rural scenery, so close to the legendary LENINGRAD [!!??] looks more like rural Worcestershire with villages dotted about!)

Breakfast will be at 8.30am and I must pick up my packed lunch for the visits to PUSHKIN etc.. "How about getting dressed?", I think to myself, ".. and having a walk around the decks?" I note, now, that 'Aerobics with Olga' is, as always, at 7.30am..

Having seen her on last night's show, and having sat next to her at an earlier event, I feel that I should have made more effort to get acquainted!!! Beautiful face, golden hair, lovely body, beautiful smile, cheerful voice!! This isn't fair! Ready for your walk, Roy? Let's go for a quick shave first - just in case I see OLGA!

I returned at 7.29am from the walk- which included stopping for the 'complimentary coffee' on Deck4 (I covered Decks 4 & 5!). The scenery has developped now and includes Apartment Blocks, Offices, some more small shacks, older buildings and newer office blocks. "Could be a bigger town here, somewhere", I pondered. The River Neva is, however, still tree-lined with an embankment. TREES are a predominant feature throughout this tour!

The arrival and docking at St. PETERSBURG at about 7.45am - every boat was either double-parked or triple-parked. They were ALL Cruise-ships! Will we have to Quadruple park??

No!! We positionned ourselves parallel and adjacent to a boat that I recognised, having seen it several times before, the Cyrillic lettering on its side spelt LENIN in their own language!! It was a 'neat' triple-parking manoeuvre! If no-one quadruple parks, and if we don't change our order against the dock, I'll keep this clear view from my cabin window across the NEVA. It includes pylons on the opposite bank.

OLEG, my next-door neighbour announces the current temperature of 18degC (maybe rising to 23degC!) - with rain being a possibility. He gave his radio introduction to St Petersburg.

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Advance to St Petersburg

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