CHAPTER ELEVEN

               The World's Most Beautiful City - then home!

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After awakening and having an averaged-sized breakfast with Eric, Al and Priscilla, followed by my selection for today's packed lunch, I met my own bus, numbered No 6, and got ready for my day-trip to St PETERSburg (surprisingly, not actually named after me!)

There are so many beautiful buildings in the 'World's most beautiful City'. I certainly took many photos, many of which will appear on this web in due course. I ate my packed lunch in one city 'square' close to a Dutch friend. A local artist was sketching close to us and I wondered what he was up to! Surely, he wouldn't want to sketch me!! Too true, but my Dutch friend had a photogenic/artistic face with a smart beard to go with it. He was very pleased with what this local artist had done! I was too!! The Russian artist sold it to my Dutch companion for $20 (the preferred currency in Russia) and I also took some photos of the 'work'. We 'cooked' (got very overheated) on the bus which took us around and even out to PUSHKIN. (I took many photos there - here's just one!)


At Pushkin (Catherine's?) Palace I wandered around the Gardens and marvelled at the beautiful Gold & Blue paintwork on the Palace's exterior. I also met friends wandering around the lovely settings (even one Yorkshire guy talking meaningful queries about all sorts of matters - he'd visited the USSR before 'glasnost', but as his Union representative!).

Returning to the boat, via an interesting underground war-memorial (for those that are 'into' those sort of things), I then rested, for a while, in the cool of my cabin. I followed this by a stroll along the dock - but, on this occasion, there were no shops or kiosks from which to purchase my normal refreshments. "Roll on" for the mealtime at 8pm!! Our boat, the RUSS, departed this evening at 11pm but ONLY to anchor in a river!!

Before then, I sampled just two numbers from a boring 'Classical Music' concert after finding that they were being very badly performed. When they absolutely ruined "Ave Maria" - I personally thought "That's enough" and left. The evening meal was far better!! So was the video in Deck5's Movie Hall. That was BARBARA STREISAND at her very best, being recorded in Las Vegas for the 1993/4 New Year and her World Tour. Each nation's viewer's in that hall in that boat agreed that this was the best that we'd all seen and heard her.

Chatting with others, afterwards, we raised many questions and theories as to why we were anchored in this river! That covered some interesting conversations.


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Friday, 2nd June 95, dawned but I got up later at 7.25am and started dressing. Our boat started moving from its overnight parking-spot and I established that I could not find my keys to the case (and home and everything else!!). Asking the 'key desk' if anything had been found, I found 'no luck' there. I went and collected my 'complimentary-coffee' which, this time, I took on deck. Afterwards, I contacted OLEG to see if he could help with my 'key information'. Not being in total command of the appropriate bits of the ship, he suggested asking ZINA - and that made good sense to me!!.

Realising that the keys may have come out of my shallow pockets whilst I was in MOSCOW (along with old 35mm film box) I realised that "things had better get initiated soon"! Thus I searched, double-searched and triple-searched every case, bag, pocket etc (all to no avail!) and put the extent of the problem to ZINA before breakfast..

I hurried breakfast and left to write to Zina the details that she requires for the intended retrieval. I then dropped the note in an addressed envelope for Zina with Oleg on the key-desk. I then caught the other people up on my way to the coach. Seeing Zina at the coaches, I was about to tell her that there's a letter waiting for her at the 'key-desk' - only to find her holding my letter that I'd only left there a few seconds ago!! She was busy talking - and I was very IMPRESSED with their speed of communications!!

I then went in the 'mobile-pressure-cooker', that they call a coach, to the world famous "HERMITAGE MUSEUM & ART GALLERY. Such opulence!! Well, it was for Royalty! The artists & sculptors, contributing to this fantastic collection, come from all around the world - but only the TOP ONES! Not all the art there was to MY taste! They were all by well-known artists (you name them, - they were there!) - and their ''works' were in incredible settings - but, unfortunately, in incredible temperatures!! So not only did I see 'art' not to my taste, but the temperatures would have prevented my enjoyment anyway!! However, the furnishings and ceilings were beautiful. - No! 'Unbelievable' is the word that I am looking for!!



I spent some time exterior to the Hermitage - taking photos of the scenes - the Hermitage's exterior and across the square! Eventually, I was able to eat my meal in the same shady seats as yesterday. The only interruption, this time, being the SAME female beggar!! After that, I continued investigating the "Peter & Paul Fortress" for the afternoon. I concentrated on the "Peter & Paul" Cathedral with its phenomenal GOLDEN OPULENCE - taking more internal vertical photographs. Due to the heat, I then escaped for a fizzy drink from a kiosk for 2500 roubles!! Other members of the group copied me in this respect.

On the way back to the boat, we called at St Michaels (ex-Church/SalesRoom/ArtShop/Cafe) where I had another fizzy drink! Back in my cabin, I commenced a further key-search and did some more packing. I completely looked through my laundry-bag and found nothing like the missing keys. Then I looked into the case to find a big envelope - and 'turned this over' - and to my total surprise there was the missing key-bunch on the bottom of the case staring at me!! Unbelievable!!!

Immediately, ALL tensions and time-problems evaporated. This, now, makes things so much easier. I must tell Zina and her staff that the keys have been found! The problem is OVER!! When I met ZINA, when had a cuddle to celebrate! I showed her the 'bunch' later. We are both so happy.

I then did more packing, with a better frame of mind, and soon booked a trip to LENINGRAD (now St Petersburg) for 10 am. tomorrow for just 5 dollars. Now relaxed, I went out for a walk on the quay-side. When I came back, the boat had gone. We were as usual, TRIPLY-parked; even the 'DOUBLE parker' had gone. On going to 'reception' on 'boat-no1' of the set to ask "where the other two had gone, when they'd be back, etc.", I was advised to leave immediately as "We are departing now!" I then saw the "Russ" and the other one 'up-stream', gradually approaching - but I would wait for them all to complete their re-shuffle!! It was interesting to see them return to the quayside - and to witness the techniques that they used. I was involved in part of the 'banter' between quayside and boat with several guys, before returning to the boat, my cabin and some refreshments. The last couple of hours have been exciting and eventful!

I later retired to my bed after more packing between 10pm and 11pm.. Approximately 11pm saw the boat take up a new parking-position close to the original pilons, but closer to the GULF OF FINLAND!


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Saturday, 3rd June 95

I'm now on the 3rd Saturday of this exploration, and at just gone 6 a.m, we are in a temporary parking position (i.e from 11pm last night until 8 a.m today probably). I got dressed and did some more packing before breakfast - which completed my larger case - and locked it at 6.42am..

I also completed Part 2 of the Customs Declaration Form - and then wandered around the boat and chatted with the Geordie couple both before and during breakfast. Al & Priscilla joined us on the Geordie table - as I was connected with them for most of our journey to date! After breakfast I bid a fond farewell to Al & Priscilla, as we'll all be going our 'separate ways' soon.

10.00am was the start of my tour of 'downtown St Petersburg' on a private walkabout. I started from St Isaac's Cathedral going via the 'Admiralty', the West Side of the WINTER PALACE, across to Vasilevsky Island, round to Zayachy Island (with its 'Peter & Paul Fortress that I visited and did much photography) then across the River Neva to Vasilevsky Island with its columns, buildings etc..


Thereafter, I walked back to the downtown area (a long walk!) via the beach on the south of ZAYACHY ISLAND with a mass of sunbathers (and other bathers in the questionable waters of the Neva). Then it was direct to the downtown area via KIROVSKY BRIDGE, the south bank of the Neva, the WINTER PALACE, diagonally across its 'Square' to 'St Isaacs' from where I met my coach for the return to the boat!





Back on the boat, I went to the bar for some 'fizzy drink refreshment', joining up for a chat with some Geordie and Cockney friends. We passed time until we could ensure that our correct cases and coaches met each other. I, personally, saw my own case, pointed to it - and saw it loaded onto the coach in the correct manner. I then met my Cruise Director, the lovely and helpful ZINA (Russia's look-alike version of Hi-dee-Hi's Ruth Madoc!) whom I thanked just before we kissed - she had been so helpful to me personally!! This was virtually then end of our time together, being as we were about to start our ride to ST. PETERSBURG airport. Zina was replaced by a youngish lad who was a useless devil as a guide!

We were ALL left to "fend for ourselves" - then told to go to customs and passport control. The guy there was very helpful and cheerful. He collected and stamped my 'Customs Declaration' form.

Then we were left in a 'hall' (by ourselves) wondering what will happen next! Only THREE aircraft are to be dealt with in the foreseeable future, ours, BA879, NOT being one of them!! Teh a 'British Airways' card was introduced to specific locations of our TWO parallel queues. Eventually, I got through on the right-hand-lane and got a NON-SMOKING (Window) seat number 18A , - later on to 'Passport Control' (done by the guy before 'baggage weigh-in' as well) and asked about 'electrical equipment'. We then passed on to VISA CONTROL (girl retained what we showed her!) - then into a WAITING-HALL, which was like a small-town bus-station. (An austere one!) It has its own "Duty Free" facility and uses the "US-DOLLAR" as currency! Well, this IS Russia!

Temperatures are STILL more appropriate to the SOUTH of FRANCE or North Africa. What is our Latitude here? How far is the ARCTIC? Why is the temperature always 25 to 30 degrees Centigade?? Here's hoping that our next aircraft {BA879) will give us our FIRST decent air-condditionning for ages!!

The temperature in the waiting area is high. Information is low. I HAVE to keep puchasing ice-creams (chocolate) to survive!

A Boeing 737-400 is our carriage back to the UK It is late arriving from the UK - and we don't get ON until AFTER we are due to have left!! Once loaded, we don't "hang about" at the TERMINAL. Our English pilot gives us lots of information. "Although behind", he says, " we'll catch up lost time on the flight!"

On lining-up on the runway, two to three seconds of low power were followed by THIRTY seconds of FULL THRUST after which we climbed steeply, still maintaining a high thrust, with me in my WINDOW SEAT (18A) watching the scene below. ALL of the flight's passengers were watching the scenery and clouds from this vantage point. As we were climbing, I thought "should I really have taken my travel-pills?" Until now, they had been an essential part of my travel-routine and sickness prevention measure. The heat had made me forget to take them. NO PROBLEM, -this represents the end of my 'Travel Sickness Era'!! Now, at long last, in 1995, I reckon that I am probably a seasoned flyer. And it was true. From then onwards, I've purposely NOT taken such tablets. Only once or twice since, with very exceptional circumstance, have I 'come unstuck'!

I calmly put my watch BACK THREE HOURS after which the captain described our route [over ESTONIA, south of TALLINN, touching LATVIA, crossing the BALTIC SEA, south of MALMO & COPENHAGEN, crossing DENMARK, the coastal shores of GERMANY, the Netherlands and BELGIUM - and making a safe land-fall at Harwich] and later on, he said, when south of Tallinn and at 31000 feet "We have a low fuel load so we'll be able to climb to 39000feet and cruise even FASTER". He added that "Not only have we caught up on lost time but that we'll now arrive EARLY!"

The usual RAINY story for HEATHROW still persists - but the temperature news is good! (15deg C!) When South of Copenhagen, the captain reported our altitude at 39000ft with the London weather 'easing'. By then, we had had a fabulous meal (so many courses in one tray!!) over the BALTIC.

Between Belgium and England, over the Southern NORTH SEA, the captain reported 35000ft and the start of the descent, hopefully 'straight in' without a HOLD! He'd report later on that - and added that the HEATHROW weather has 'cleared up'.

As we approached Heathrow, later, not much later, - there were NO low clouds, no fog, no mist, no rain - and the temperature was still 15 deg C! We made a beautiful LANDING at 8.50pm and I can now ENJOY flights even more now without tablets. Those TABLETS now only have USE by me on a sea-bobbing boat!! Ordinary waters and air-travel are NOW OK!!

It's nice to have a decent temperature - still a liffle high - but 'acceptable' after the 30 deg C stuff that one meets so often nowadays!!

I collected my case with hand-baggage and got the 'Underground' (for £3.10) to Paddington. By the time I arrived at the BORDER HOTEL at 10.30pm, I was shattered. The "Aussi" girl was just about to 'lock-up' too!! I did NOT go out as intended - but just laid on top of my bed in pyjamas (bottom half only!) and went to SLEEP (11pm London time but 2am Russian Time - it's been a LONG day!!)

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Sunday, 4th June 95

I awoke in the early morning (3.00am - ish!) quite cool - so I got UNDER the duvet - and reawakened at 7am. I then got dressed and wrote my 'notes' up and prepared for the day!

Descending for breakfast at 7.45 am, I received cheerful welcomes from all. I then had a LARGE 'English Breakfast' with lots of toast and marmalade (the GOOD news) plus the only (BAD news) bad bit of Radio2 in the breakfast room (i.e. - the Sunday GOD-BOTHERING religious programme!!) Nothing has changed!

I arranged with the landlady to leave the keys and case at the hotel - and pay on collection due to the late departure of the Malvern train. I walked in the rain (it's been falling since breakfast) to Paddington station and its Timetable-boards and found that there is a 10.20am train DIRECT to MALVERN, arriving at Malvern Link at 13.12hrs..

I decided to go on this one - and arrange the normal check-out before 10.00am..This has the advantage that I can check the car out in the light and RESTOCK the kitchen with a SAFEWAY visit in the afternoon. During my hotel check-out, I talked with Mr & Mrs Davies about RUSSIA (my visits to Folk Concerts and HIS singing with the GWALIA Male Voice Choir and its International visits). He told me of the Russian suspicions when nearly everyone in his Welsh Male Voice Choir had surnames of Jones, Williams and Davies!! He also related some amusing stories about his arrival at, and departures from, there.

I got to the station at 9.50am, but did NOT get a 'Platform Indication' until WELL after 10.00am for the 10.20am train. When the indication DID come, it was for Platform 13 (and the walk there was almost half-way to Malvern!) Quite a walk!! The departure time was quite accurate too. For sustenance, I devoured my Russian 'cookie'. - and then sat back to enjoy the journey.

The digital display in the carriage indicated that this train is the TURBO EXPRESS for Great Malvern, told the passengers the stops that it would make - and asks for NO SMOKING(!) - before warnings about leaving unattended items.

It was still pouring with RAIN at the stop at SLOUGH!! It was nice to have a comparatively COOL temperature! For our arrival at READING there was no rain - and as the doors opened at 11 am, the "beautiful fresh air" it was exactly to my taste and wafted over to my seat. GREAT!! As the doors closed, I could only HOPE that sufficient of this beautiful air had been trapped with us - at least until OXFORD!!

I hoped they would offer some drink, soon, (11.06a.m) as I'm parched despite having many coffees during the BORDER HOTEL's breakfast! On arrival at OXFORD, we were told to make sure that we were in the first THREE coaches for the WORCESTER to MALVERN leg! (The train would divide into two parts at Worcester!) On looking at the train from the platform, it appears that I AM in the 3rd coach... however, a guy on the station pointed to the dividing part of the train (between coaches 2 and 3) so I moved into coach No1!!

I got the almost identical seat (a miracle!!) and position in this new close-packed format! Shortly after 'settling down', our 11.30a.m train departed after verbal messages in 'broad Worcestershire' proved the correctness of my previous 'move'.

Good News!! Here's the 'refreshment trolley'! When the guy pulled alongside - I saw my possible chance, which I did, in fact, chose - the Diet Coke and a KitKat (naughty, but great). The video messages inside the carriage haven't changed yet - still indicating exactly the same as when it was at Paddington! Thus it contained NO DETAIL beyond Oxford - except "Principal Stations to Great Malvern".

One change HAS been made though is for it to wish us "Good Morning" instead of "Good Afternoon"! As it was now 11.52am, I was wondering when that update would take place.

Whilst the LONDON area view looked different from the Russian Metropolitan areas, the view from KINGHAM, and onwards, looked very much like the rural parts of Russia - both as regards to green-ness and also dereliction! However, here in the UK, there are many more BUTTERCUPS and LESS dereliction!

After half an hours smoke break at Moreton-in-Marsh, I let the refreshment-man pass without any of my non-existent requirements. I headed for the toilet, using manual push-buttons for the doors en-route. These were totally new and different from the TOP CLASS 'automatics'! I returned to make some notes (12.32pm) and the display still says "Good Morning" and "Slough & Reading" as the stops!!

After leaving EVESHAM at 12.39hrs and travelling northwards through the lush greenness of rural Worcestershire, I gained my longed-for sighting of the FULL LENGTH of the MALVERN HILLS. I'll soon be home!

Soon be back to the reality of the piles of JUNK-MAIL! Back to car checkouts! Back to SAFEWAY and restocking by larder!! Now I was arriving in PERSHORE - and later on, at my MALVERN LINK arrival, I was to visit the phone box to phone TOP CARS. The guy promised to be there in a quarter-hour, so I waited patiently - and sure enough my usual large driver turned up.

He asked me what I thought of RUSSIA - and the word UNBELIEVABLE seemed entirely appropriate - as regards the scenery, the people, their friendliness and their TEMPERATURES. He said "I do BELIEVE it - as a Muscovite lady passenger in his cab, last week, had reported 33 to 35 degrees centigrade over there! - Her first stop, over here, was for a shoe-shop because of the inclement English weather!"

I told the guy that I'd be contacting him soon for my next trip - and we bade each other farewell for the moment.

Now back home, my first tasks were to:

(i) pick up and go through vast quantities of MAIL
(ii) put on my automatic washing machine for large quantities of LAUNDRY
and (iii) put on a MERLE HAGGARD record for relaxation!

Thereafter, somewhat later, I'd continue with unpacking and phone a LONDON hotel.


....THE TRIP IS NOW COMLETE - back to the British Realities....

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