** Morocco Bound **
This is the 6 Dec 2004 Edition of
this page.
CHAPTER FIVE
** To SPAIN and HOME **
25 October 2000 (continued)
Leaving this HILTON after its fabulous food and the Metropolis of RABAT-SALI we then
left the coast to bypass LARACHI from KENITRA [mind you, the sausages in this morning's
breakfast gave the suggestions of "recycled" material from a toilet somewhere!!]. No
photography was possible before getting to the 'boat' as I needed some replacement batteries.
Fortunately, the coast (partly desert, part well-cultivated) passed uninterestingly.
The appropriate forms for Customs & Police were filled in en-route for when we got to
TANGIER. It was quite 'smooth', really, in processing before we got on the boat. It turned out
to be the SAME one as we'd got on the 'way out', all those days ago! It was the BOUGHAZ,
again!! We revelled in the experiences of our guide who came up with many 'horror-stories' about
youngsters risking the lives on their crossings to Europe. They would hide in the coach - engines, which
it was always wise to check-up on before departure. Lorry-engines were also used by these 'unfortunates',
but drivers and by-standers could hear them coughing when the relevant vehicle went through a chemical-dip!!
Our guy was a soft-hearted one who pitied them and got them safely out of their predicament with various
other means. On the way over the narrow stretch of water, I found a 'photography/film/battery/info' desk
which I'd have to visit later in the journey!
Once the boat 'powered-up' and departed, the 'info shop' opened - but with no attendant, no service and a
complete lack of security! After some while, I visited a girl who seemed to be running the "Duty Free" shop -
and after she'd finished with her customer - and she came to serve me (after LOCKING-UP the "DUTY FREE).
I managed to buy a set of four AA batteries for 250 pesetas ( but also priced at 6.00FF and 0.91€) before
going off to explore the ship for its 'food possibilities'.
I had a 'Fanta Orange' drink for 150 pesetas and an 'omelet au fromage' for 500 pesetas. That'll bring the
'loose change' down! The trip, weather-wise, was smooth and enjoyable - although not as good as on the
way out! 'Shipping Rules' for driving obviously require boats to drive on the right, -which explains why the
routes were different.
Water evaporation from the Mediterranean means, said Steve, that the water flows through the Strait of
Gibraltar FROM the Atlantic. (I hadn't heard that before!!) That makes our return from TANGIER quicker!!
As Gibraltar approached, I was the ONLY person on the TOP deck, very happy in my seclusion - the perfect
environment with this absence of people! On arrival at ALGECIRAS, we reverse-thrusted before rotating, then
going in backwards!
We passengers disembarked faster than the coach from ITS deck, - thus we had a wait - and I had a pleasant
chat with Geraldine, this taking place on the Algeciras Dock as the coach made its own way!
Steve's description of ESTEPONA as a "fantastic complex, growing very quickly" left a number of us in sheer
horror!! Once nearly there, its gigantic array of 'building cranes' confirmed our fears. I define it as a place "to be
avoided like the plague!" As we came even closer, the horror became even more and more intense. As we approached
our hotel, it seems as if they are changing its name about every five years, - probably in some giant tax-fiddle!! Not my
sort of place.
The view from my window, in room 103, is of the top of an air-conditionning system, a Palm tree, the Mediterranean
with Gibraltar in the background. In this GIANT 'building site', the rooms are less-bad but with no sensible-design
considerations, for example the mirrors, shaver-points and distances are absolutely stupid!
No food is inside, or even outside the hotel - BUT in several years time there MAY be! "Who'd want to be there
then?" I thought.
I had a big session, in the evening, of sorting out the case-items, the hand-baggage items, the paperwork etc in this
ESTEPONA hotel. Then there were various English programmes of interest on the TV.
[Todays mileages had been:-
175 miles on coach in Morocco
38 miles on boat (ferry)
40 miles on coach in SPAIN]
26 October 2000 (Thursday)
"Sleepless in ESTEPONA" was what I've been overnight. Far from being the title of my next book, it did allow
me to think of a restructured web-site with THREE new 'titles', namely:-
"With the Lapps of the Gods" (about this summer's LAPLAND Tour)
"Morocco Bound" (about the current trip)
"In the steps of Von Daniken" (about 2000's Peruvian Trip)
So this winter (2000/2001), I can, in parallel, concentrate on NINE 'books' or travelogues!!
Now, at 6.35am, I had time to get-ahead of the 7.00am wake-up call ... and be in plenty of time for
getting the 7.30 breakfast and my luggage out. Departure for GRENADA is at 8.30am.. The excellent breakfast
was in complete contrast to the 'crap hotel' in this 'crap location'! I changed my remaining ESCUDOS note
for some PESETAS at reception.
The coach went along the coast and made a 35 minute stop at MARBELLA. The expensive boats didn't
impress me like they obviously did with the late PRINCESS MARGARET! (This was her favourite place!)
I had been far more impressed in the 60's and 70's at ST.TROPEZ and MONTE CARLO!!
The princess's favourite beach seemed 'crap' to me - and certainly doesn't match Cornwall's POLZEATH.
That was my favourite as a youngster, and a year or two ago, on revisiting it - it proved totally superior
to the world-renowned BONDI BEACH!
Even further along this HIGHLY COMMERCIALISED coast, we saw FUENGIROLA and TORRE
MOLINOS. I classified them as 'the absolute pits' and the 'depths of commercial vacations'! There are,
apparently MILLIONS here every week - and I made a vow 'not to touch them with a barge pole'!!
MALAGA is similar, and joined to both!
Next, we headed inland to the mountains of SPAIN, going northwards along the 331, followed by the
321 in an easterly direction towards GRANADA. We stopped for a lunch, soup and refreshments
between LOJA and GRANADA!
Arriving at the ALHAMBRA at our appointed time, we found that it is currently managed by UNESCO,
with sensible-sized parties - and we split into two half-groups for the 2-hour tour. The guide for our 'half'
was Elena - with a 'naughty' sense of humour. It was an enthralling visit and we exitted kinda-exhausted
(photos will be later, dear readers!) - ready for the coach back to our Hotel (The CARMEN) in GRANADA.
We had been on the coach for 115miles today.
Back in the CARMEN HOTEL, I was in Room 238, which is about the number of rooms I passed each
time in this very tight maze-in-miniature in this guest-house. Solving the maze is impossible! How about in
conditions of FIRE??
Out in the town of GRANADA, it proved to me that it was "just another town" - and I wanted none of
it! Confinement to the Hotel was the most comfortable option - despite its small room-size! (Mind you, -
it was bigger than my Paddington digs!!)
Before the evening meal, I chatted and answered questions from the very active (vocally) American Woman
(who made herself the self-appointed trash-collector) - and during the meal, I was seated (and in communication)
with the three PHILLIPINO ladies - answering their questions.
For me, it was an earlyish bed this evening.
27 October 2000 (Friday)
After a good night's sleep, I had a toilet visit at 4am before returning to bed. Getting up at 5.35am, I then
got my note-writing up-to-date.
I got my case out at 6.45am and went down for breakfast for its 7.00am start. As I was well into this -
I was then accompanied by Geraldine and my first travel-companion on this trip (the TORONTO girl -
named either J.Merlach or R.Johnson!).
At 8am, the coach departed, headed North on the '323', through the attractive mountains of the SIERRA
HARANA and the SIERRA DE MAGINA, before the bare scenery around (before and after) JAEN.
After JAEN, we entered the even-more-dramatic scenery of the SIERRA MORENA on the 'E05' which let us
onto the "world's biggest?" OLIVE GROVES with millions of trees covering vast distances and acreage!!
Somewhere along this route, we stopped for a coffee break at a small place, very SPANISH, not much tourism
and off the main road! We turned, later, off the main MADRID road to go to TOLEDO via the 400 road, stopping
ahead of the coach rivals (i.e. OTHER tours) for good overview photos of Toledo before 'thousands of base-ball
hats' crowded our views. Steve's strategy worked well here!!
We then left to checkin for our humourous Spanish Guide to the CATHEDRAL of TOLEDO and the works of
EL GRECO. This was up a big hill, partly by escalators, partly on foot - and before the main climb we went to a
GOLD WORKER's demonstration. Also, now a very sour joke, we've got into a "shopaholic's paradise" again.
I find this continual servicing of that 'addiction' totally abhorrent!! INSIGHT seems to cater for them more than
most, and that's why I've NEVER travelled with them again!
Thereafter, following a fortnight away, it was "back to MADRID", where I stayed at the CUZCO Hotel. I had no meals
there! On today's coach I had travelled 260 miles.
After checking in to the hotel, I went looking for a food shop. I didn't find one, but, I DID find a BURGER KING
snackbar. For 250Psta, the cheeseburger satisfied my mild-hunger. I, later, spoke with a couple of SCOTTISH women
who had just arrived.
Back in my room, I read its instructions for their INTERNET facility. Unfortunately, the screen didn't even display
a cursor!!! Therefore, I had no way of moving this non-existent pointer! I investigated the reasons and options - and to
cut a long story SHORT, I needed to "call the reception desk". After finding THAT desk (a long while) the answer they
gave (in English) didn't solve the problem. Eventually, the girl admitted that the "Internet doesn't work".
Oh well, forget that Roy! I'll now try and find a TV channel that IS meaningful - plus a film for Geraldine. I did find
a short film for her, and then found some English programmes in SKY NEWS.
28 October 2000 (Saturday)
Our hotel appears to be on the main highway THROUGH MADRID as its 'dragstrip' outside ( 12 floors
below) was 'operational' ALL NIGHT! High density traffic, with its SIRENS, made sure that one did not
sleep too long at a stretch!
Viewing the 'lighted scene' from time to time was interesting and punctuated with toilet visits! I, eventually,
got up at 6am and prepared for today's sightseeing.
I could appreciate the highly polished floor (of expensive woods and patterns) - and the "bidet with a top"
(that's posh!!) during this morning's ablutions.
For breakfast, there were very few tables for the ginormous crowd - which queued for miles in this small
basement breakfast room. Having met Geraldine on my way out, I gave her a '24 exposure' TRUPRINT
film.
The coach left at 8.50am (somewhat late!) for the MADRID sightseeing tour. We went southwards on the
GRAN VIA by the CIBELIUS FOUNTAIN, saw miscellaneous minor landmarks - and visited the ROYAL
PALACE. This is a very oppulent palace with well over 2000 rooms, - most of them VERY beautiful.
Apparently, the new royalty have decided that they DON'T want to live there! They prefer the place that they
regard as HOME (BIG for us - but small for 'Royals'!). We then went back to the hotel by about 11.40am -
repassing the giant football stadiumof REAL MADRID (where Julio Inglesias used to play before his big accident!).
Today's coach trip had notched up about 20 miles.
Later, I took a walk-about, looking for refreshments, - returning to BURGER-KING again! Still later, I indulged in
an even LONGER walk to the north in Madrid, covering a large number of blocks. I got a FANTA and a
return of 150Pts (with Spanish which I didn't understand!)
Whilst the INTERNET in my hotel room is still NOT available, - I did find an ENGLISH-SPEAKING channel on
the TV! It dealt with David Trimble in Northern Ireland.
In the late-afternoon, I took another longish walk in the WESTERLY DIRECTION. Luckily, I found an ice-cream
seller who had just a few left! It was an EXPENSIVE chocolate GIANT cone costing 250 pesetas. I ate half of it
in a central 'linear park' near the CUZCO Hotel (the actual seat [and waste-bin] are visible from my own room -
which is 12 floors up!)
I put my watch and the clock 'back' one hour from 17.12 to 16.12 as SPANISH 'Summer Time' ends overnight.
(So does BST!) - I must ensure that I get the correct times, tomorrow, for breakfast which should be at 7am. In
addition to that, our cases have to be 'out' at 8am. - and the transfer to Madrid Airport should be at 10.45am..
My total usable cash for Spain, now, is 180Pts!! Enough for an ice lolly at the airport? Before then, I watched an English
language programme on SKY TVetc..Following that, I watched some technology programmes in English (dealing with
Cycle & motor-cycle racing!) I got an 'early bed' (18.00hrs - but really 19.00hrs). Because on my early night, I paid
the penalty of frequent toilet visits overnight!!
29 October 2000 (Sunday)
I looked at the automatically-altered clock on TV when I reawakened at 6.16am, jumping out of bed
very quickly - as that was the 'time' I'd planned to get up!!
I accidentally met Steve during the morning, and he revealed that he'd given out a message, yesterday
evening, that I'd missed (as I wasn't on that trip!). I'd missed the details about the luggage to the transfer-bus
(including its times). That was another of this guy's failings!!
I, now, have to take my own case down at about 10.00 - 10.15hrs or use a porter to do it. I deemed it to
be less hassle to do it one's self!
At 08.25, I waved to the people on the 0845 coach ( no, my watch isn't wrong!) after meeting a couple
saying that there'll only be SIX of us on the second transfer (at 10.45am) - and that a porter could be
requested for 10.15am. I'll do it myself!!
Having got to the information area, THEY decided that THEY'D have to take to the coach - with the
others - at 10.45am.. Others had been making their own arrangements, too, when DOM MATTA, the driver
for the whole tour arrived. I told him that the porter has got my case, - whilst others 'wheeled' their own. At the coach,
my case was not there.
Having told the 'information' people to let them know the problem, and that the coach is READY to be loaded, THEY
and DOM MATTA struggled to quickly put the rest on!
As soon as the coach was loaded, DOM headed off quickly - only to be stopped within half a mile - as we are
'tangled up' with the MADRID MARATHON!!
Eventually, we got to the Madrid Airport (just 25 miles), where we
collected our cases and went to the 'terminal'. I found that my aircraft, the BA2465, uses Gate B23. Having found
the channel to 'B', I participated in their 'check-in'. The policeman (a Spanish guy) said that I needed a boarding card,
so I told him that "I'm on the way to get on!" He said that "you have to get them from each Company" - but I hadn't
seen the BA desk anywhere!! So I started asking any airline desk (airlines that I'd never heard of) "Where's BA?"
One of they indicated a direction (a lot further on!) and said "300".
I carried on until I reached there and checked in for a window-seat, quickly and easily. I got seat '04A' on the
B737-400 which departed late, after having a "change of gate" (due to the previous user's delay) and a bus-ride
to the aircraft (where we had to climb the steps in the sun's heat - this late in the year).
After loading, we taxied 'a very long way' to the Northerly Runway. On arriving at "36L", we accelerated for 30 seconds
before lift-off. From the strong headwind, I calculated that it would reduce our ground-speed to between 400 and
500 knots for the journey.
On reaching altitude, we had a nice meal with plenty of room in this BA aircraft (having no
centre seat!) and this made it even more enjoyable (me in "04A" and a young woman in "04C"). "04B" was a 'dummy
seat' with no armrests and no jostling with other people's elbows whilst eating!! This dummy seat had an extra table
(with wings!) so that we in "04A" and "04C" could use it.
We flew over the Spanish Coast - directly over a harbour, then, later, over an island (not Jersey's shape) and then
over Northern France. Over England (after 800 miles), we hit a little turbulence and descended through thick clouds.
It made me wonder how much ALTITUDE we had left!!
Two left turns at low altitude got us 'established' on our approach - and we made a smooth 'touch-down' before
applying great armfuls of Reverse Thrust! On exitting from the plane, I got the In-Gatwick rail-link from North to South
(a couple of miles) - and then went to LONDON by the 'Gatwick Tortoise' (the 'regular rail' as the EXPRESS was under
repair problems!). That cost £10.20 and covered 31 miles - before the 'Underground' took me on its 5 miles, via Earls Court,
to Paddington for £1.50.
I checked-in at the ASHLEY HOTEL again, the evening seeing me watch TV (just a bit!) and visit a 'Hole in the Wall'
machine at the Paddington Post Office for a £100 cash-withdrawal. Heavy rain and high winds with an umbrella made
this excursion kinda-difficult, - and it was more frustrating when I found MICKY's FISH BAR closed!! That was very
unusual!
Since the intense RAIN and gales make life unpleasant (as forecast on BBC World in Spain!), it makes sense to stay
indoors. (TV also shows this as the STORMIEST night in years!!) I therefore watched technical programs and
nature programs - it was well worth being indoors!!
30 October 2000 (Monday)
After a storm-battered night here in PADDINGTON, during which I made several toilet visits (e.g at 4.30am,
6.15am, etc) I decided to get up at 6.25am.
It will be nice to "take the day easy" after the three weeks of tight schedules and dashing around parts of
Europe and Africa! Hopefully, it will be an "easy journey" back to MALVERN! (It should be provided that
LONDON TRANSPORT's Underground sytem and NATIONAL EXPRESS coaches are not unduly affected!!)
Here, the storm-force winds are creating great pressures and partial vacuums at random, inside and outside the
hotel. Consequently, a mini-gale blows under my door up in my room in a vain attempt to equalise whatever
pressures need to be equalised!! This is the worst STORM in the UK for many years, apparently. The winds
are gusting up to 90mph!!
I had various sorts of breakfast from 7.15am - 8.15am - and then paid my hotel bill for the night (£36.50). I
promised the management that I'd confirm my February booking by a letter through the post. Then I noticed
that they can deal with EMail - so I could do it that way in a few days time!!
Noticing that I could leave my cases HERE for the day - when I vacate the room - I did that just before 10am.
I heard that a TORNADO of 100mph has hit Selsey, and 90 mph affected Portsmouth. England and Wales have
been brought to a standstill - with DOVER's Port closed and several ferries stranded in the English Channel.
There are 'knock-on' effects on the M20 motorway!
There are snow and blizzards in Lancashire and Bradford! These reports, and others, appeared on BBC1TV at
8.30am.. Later, I hear that the stranded ferries (for Calais) are taking shelter in calmer areas somewhere near
our south coast. Rail chaos descriptions continued because of the nationwide repair programme following the
HATFIELD DISASTER (whilst I was away - 2 weeks ago).
[News that a bomb in a residential area of MADRID (where I left yesterday) has killed some people. The UK
recommendation for today is "Stay at Home" and don't travel! However, I need to travel to GET HOME!!]
I checked out of the ASHLEY HOTEL (Paddington) and then explored Paddington, again, observing the new
development to the RAIL station. There were tremendous works of improvement. However, only ONE of the
first 20 trains is running - the one to Bristol TEMPLE MEADS!! With the Railway's 'blitz' on repairs, for safety's
sake, the WHOLE of the UK transportation has ground to a halt!
The STORM FORCE winds, driving rain and FLOODS is a problem on top of this. I had left my cases in the
ASHLEY whilst I checked on these effects - which included problems on the UNDERGROUND! I decided,
at 11.30am, to get my luggage and slowly find my way to VICTORIA, - and the connections eventually 'made it'.
Then I walked to the COACH STATION, arriving 6 hours early for my coach. Although the Rail Station was almost
EMPTY, the COACH STATION is overcrammed with all sorts of people who don't normally use a coach!!
SAFETY HAZARDS abound because of this! For the first few hours, I sat and watched at Gates 8 & 9 (there was
MORE room there!) and then, for the last three hours, at my correct Gate 4 to observe DELAY notifications (which are
now reducing!)
The roads are clogged with so many cars!!! I arrived home, after the coach trip and walk from Malvern Link Station,
at 22.15hrs.. What a journey! On it, I had attempted to do some coach-sleeping again with the seat to myself, except from
HEATHROW to CIRENCESTER, when I shared with a guy returning from the USA.
He, and many of the passengers on this coach, just like on the MAIN trip to MOROCCO, had mobile phones to plague
the rest of us! Not only had they used them in the streets, on coaches - but in breakfast rooms (even in the ASHLEY!) - and
even whilst driving their prams with infants on board!
In Spain, a guy, 'on-a-mobile' reversing a pram out of a shop, nearly 'ran-me-down'!
At home, I put the electric blanket ON, straight away, whilst I sorted out the snail mails into piles of 'probably important',
'pure junk' and 'charity mails'. There were also 56 EMails on my Pentium which I downloaded.
I also started putting various clocks BACK now that BST has ended!
31 October 2000 (Tuesday)
First thing in the morning, I counted ALL the snail-mails and checked the EMails - and got a bite to eat
before putting the rest of the clocks BACK to GMT.
3 November 2000
Now back home for a while, I produced the summary of the 'Moroccan Trip' as follows:-
Coach = 2816 miles
Taxi = 2 miles
Train = 89 miles
Aircraft = 1600 miles
Boat = 76 miles
GRAND TOTAL = 4583miles
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