Tale Eight (Part 2)
So, here I was, on the 30th March 1996, not only "checked-in" but moved in. The view
from my 'hotel' window was stupendous, with little houses like large huts sweeping down the
slope from my window several hundred feet to the shore-line below. It wasn't an ordinary
shore-line. No folks!!! Both land and fjord were snow and ice-covered. The snow being to
a depth of two metres on land and the frozen fjord extending a great deal inland. The sight
on the other side of the fjord was the REAL feature that made the view so stupendous. It was
a range of snow-covered mountains especially created for our visual gratification.
We had arrived here later than planned due to a series of delays for transference from
Kulusuk. I really wanted to walk around our mountain village NOW but there was a meal
awaiting us. Thus, Bobbie, Ruby and I occupied a table together and spoke of our views of
this marvellous place. We didn't have to speak from memory because the views from our
tableside windows in this welcoming restaurant were even more panoramic than from a
smaller window in an individual's room.
After the fabulously prepared and presented meal, each of us individually returned to
our rooms and were soon making individual explorations of the village on the side of the
mountain this side of the fjord. It may have been a small village - but it is the capital of this
side of Greenland. There are only a few hundred residents here, - and visitors are not allowed
to swamp the place. That's why their numbers are kept down. A good plan, - long may it
survive.
My personal exploration took me along where the roads may well have been before
an earlier snow-storm buried them to a depth of two metres. One doesn't walk on two metres
depth of snow because their roads have been delineated by snow-clearing devices to make the
'going' easier. That easier-going hadn't been planned for pedestrians but for any 4-wheel-drive
fully-studded vehicles that happen to be around. Such clearances were in the form of 2-metre
deep canyons - but with still some snow and ice on, what might have been, roads.
X-TREME SNOWMOBILE ACTION
Such 'roads' were not really meant for pedestrians or their other form of transport (the
snowmobiles). Snowmobiles, as we had seen from our restaurant windows are a free-form of
transport (for leisure and work) that, only sometimes, use the roads. They go across open-
territory (fields or whatever) and cross roads at right-angles at very high speeds. As you can
imagine, this is not for the faint-hearted with a plunge onto the road (6 feet lower) with a
rapid ascent out the other side!! An example is shown below from my own TV viewing!!
[We did not know it then, but the most spectacular performer - the one that we called the
'kamikaze-skidooer' - was the guy who would, tomorrow, initiate us into this not-so-gentle
art. Nobody told us that. A wise move, because it could well have spoilt our meal!!!]
On these roads, I walked very gingerly because of the envisaged risk to life and limb
from this partially prepared surface. Nevertheless, it was a terrific pleasure as I was not trying
to go at any great speed but merely to go on a gentle sight-seeing 'ramble' in this terrain!
I descended the steep slopes of roads covered with about half an inch of ice and snow
(they had made a reasonable job of clearance here!) and headed downhill towards the frozen
fjord and frozen harbour. This should look significantly different from 'back home'!! Gently
does it, Roy, no hurry. Enjoy the tranquillity and sheer spectacle of it all.
I traversed many roads and 'pathways' with spectacular views and thoughts - all at a
very slow pace. Walking around the whole complex of streets represented by these 6-foot-
deep canyons I used my camera to create a vivid-recollection series of photos. 'Spectacular'
was the word for it! Many photos showing virtually buried buildings were captured in this
delightful setting. Each 'house' was different in its design and degree of encapsulation by the
snows.
On returning towards the 'hotel' for mealtime I met many friendly people, giving very
friendly gestures and uttering friendly greetings. I did likewise - but it was all unintelligible
gobbledeegook on both sides.[Mine was 'English' and theirs was Danish or Inuit!]
At one stage I met a woman who appeared lost so I produced my map as a potential
solution to her problem. She looked interested as I pointed out where we were - and where
my hotel is (its name was printed in the top of the map). It appeared as if she was a little bit
under the influence of alcohol. Here is someone who needs help!! Several things struck me.
Firstly, her non-comprehension of the map and what I was saying. Secondly, there was her
lack of finger-control over the map. Thirdly there was the not-unpleasant smell of her breath.
Fourthly, her slurred speech - and fifthly - I couldn't understand her language anyway!!
Having pointed out where I was heading for (my 'hotel') and the reason (lunch was
nearly ready), she, of course, couldn't understand anything. I realised her confusion as she
took my arm and led me down the slopes towards the fjords. Quite a nice gesture, I thought
- perhaps this is the traditional Greenlandic welcome!! We twisted one way, then the other
through the network of snowy canyons. All of a sudden we left the 'road' and went into a side
path that led to a small collection of wooden houses (they are all wooden - so nothing
unusual there!). Not understanding her language (probably Inuit, I had now thought) I
gathered by her body movements that this was where she lived. One or two persons
exchanged greetings as we approached. I didn't understand any of them.
A number of thoughts were racing through my mind now. Like - how do I explain that
I need to get back for the meal? Like - why does she want me here? Like -how do I verbally
communicate if my guess is correct? Like - what hidden dangers are there in this first evening
on Greenland? So the best thing I thought I could do was to back-pedal, wave goodbye and
utter meaningless (to her) English phrases. I couldn't decipher the expression on her face. It
partly looked like gratitude for getting her home - and partly like disappointment for not
accepting her very kind offer of going into her 'shack'.
Thus I then had my meal, a very pleasant introduction to Greenlandic cuisine. Soon,
I was out on the snowy roads in our local canyons, exploring again. Too dark for photography
now!
There were beautiful clear skies as it got dark. Then, quite unexpectedly, a sight
similar to some sights seen in Norway in 1993 appeared above me. In Norway, I had seen
120 degree arcs of Aurora Borealis centred about magnetic North - several times too. This
was different, there was a single strip of Aurora right across the sky, virtually from one
horizon, - across the Zenith, - and right down to the opposite horizon. That took it from just
above the village shop close to the fjord right up to the direction of our hotel. Unfortunately,
when I got back to the very large shed that we call a 'Hotel', the ionised particles from the
sun decided to switch the Aurora off. I had wanted to watch the show from my own window.
It would have been physically safer because observing these high elevations is not-too-easy
on steep slippery slopes.
So, having got here and had a minor exploration of this part of East Greenland, - seen
some of its people, its buildings, their particular variation of the Aurora Borealis, its
wonderful food and personal welcomes - it was now time to get some shut-eye in readiness
for tomorrow's exploits which include the first dog-sled trip (in the morning) and my first
skidooing runs (in the afternoon).
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