** WINTER TALES **
This is the 3 June 2005
edition of this page.
TALE NINE
Snow-mobiling around Ammassalik
On the day of arrival in Ammassalik, excitement was rising as our small group
prepared for both skidooing (otherwise known as 'snowmobiling') and the dog-sled
introductory expedition. In fact, the latter came in the morning of 31st March 1996 (dealt with
in Tale Ten), but the snowmobiling experiences were in the same afternoon.
Our three members were timed for departures within a certain hour, whereas the
couple who joined us were scheduled to depart in the following hour. Miki, the mad-cap
'suicidal' driver whom we had seen from the comfort of the restaurant windows during meal-
times, turned out to be the guy initiating us into the experience. Miki (we know his name
now, but didn't at the time!) had been seen climbing, descending and jumping at an alarming
rate-of-knots over the exceedingly hilly terrain below the hotel. His exploits made us think
"are they are all mad around here" (there were many , although none as spectacular as him!!).
The great swooping scenery , fields (under 6 feet of snow), roads etc were traversed
at a 'suicidal' rate with "olympic gymnastics" thrown in for good measure.
What they had planned for us, from our base at Hotel Angmagssalik, was to be taken,
individually, as Miki's pillion rider, on the very spritely Yamaha-powered machine, to an
isolated spot on the hills a few miles away. Our order of punishment was to be decided
amongst ourselves, - so Ruby was to go first, then Bobbie, then me. After that the other
couple was to decide their own order.
First then, Ruby and Miki accelerated wildly downhill (on a road, folks, - but sheer
ice!). Bobbie and I saw then turn left, safely, for the hills when they got to a certain junction.
Bobbie and I chatted about the beauty of the place, the scenery, what we had seen and our
respective falls earlier in the day.
After a while, Miki returned on his own for Bobbie and they disappeared, somewhat
hesitantly at first (Bobbie is somewhat bigger than Ruby) - but later the tracked machine
certainly showed its worth. I was then on my own on a steep icy slope high on a hill
overlooking a frozen fjord on the East coast of Greenland. Kind of remote, although close to
this large-hut Hotel - but my kind of heaven!! Nice place to await Miki's return - and my
snowmobile experience. It seemed an interminable time before he returned, but I managed to
explore another area of the hilly village a bit more during his absence.
In due course, my turn arrived.

Sitting on the machine's pillion seat was reasonably
comfortable with its padded seats (unlike the sledges!) and 'holding bars' (well, I used them
for that purpose!) for a Scandinavian interpretation of 'safety'.Their road vehicles (including
hotel trucks) don't require people to wear safety belts (as mentionned in my previous tale) -
and these cross-country vehicles (like motor-cycle scrambling, trikes and quads in the UK)
seem to get by with soft hats as an apology for protection. Miki's knitted-wool hat was
attractive with its patterns and woolly bobbles! Not the protection that 'scramblers' use in
Europe and other 'advanced' areas.
Ruby, Bobbie and myself used the hats built into our anoraks or parkas, and in
addition I had a woollen hat.
Like those before me, I was involved in a rapid downhill acceleration with the tracked
YAMAHA before decelerating for a left-hander into a side-road. This one was only slightly
downhill, - decidedly more bumpy, but still with 2 metre deep canyon walls. After about a
quarter mile down there, we climbed up a bank (a hole through the snowy canyon wall) on
the left-hand side - just like a motor-cycle scrambler.
We then went ducking-and-diving our way around pylons, poles, huts on making our
way to clearer territory. Even this was done at 'competition-speed', - a quite exhilarating
experience!! We did not follow contours or a ridge-path. Anything but!! We swooped down
hills, roared up other ones, - not all in one continuous motion, but interrupted by abrupt turns,
sheer drops and ascents. Miki obviously liked making a lot of noise!!
This went on for a few miles, no recognition being given by Miki to my damaged
base-of-spine. I, simultaneously, had to arrange (a) not to be thrown off the machine (b) not
to further aggravate the pain (c) not to lose my woollen hat protection against the chill-factor.
The problem, here, is that (a) requires me to be attached tightly to the seat whilst (b) requires
that I be elevated safely ABOVE it. This puts a fair degree of strain on the arms and wrists.
The wind-chill is quite severe at this speed, this altitude and this temperature. The
jumps added a "degree-of-difficulty" to our free-style programme! The jumps also added to
the "degree-of-pain" to my rear-end!
Eventually, we arrived on the top of a hill surrounded by valleys and other hills(all
completely covered with deep snow) PLUS an isolated pair of people who turned out to be
Ruby and Bobbie.

I got off the beastie, to the relief of the spine's base-point, and the three
of us took some more photos - watched bemusedly by Miki. Bobbie took my picture sitting
on the Yamaha (with my camera) - and I took one of the machine as well. After a short 4-
way chat Ruby joined Mike and roared off down the hill that I had just come up. Not down
the same way - as there are an infinite choices of direction over this virgin snow.
Bobbie and I were then totally alone on this snowy hill in the middle of no-where. The
silence was deafening. What a beautiful isolated quiet place! We could see a frozen fjord
from here - and we wandered around this snow-clad peak independently taking photo-
opportunities of whatever took our individual fancies.
On the frozen fjord were the locals taking part in their Easter sports event that Yewlin
had told me about earlier this morning on the sled-expedition. When I had asked Yewlin
whether any of his friends had taken part in the Iditerod Trail - he had answered in the
negative (see next Tale where you will find his reasoning). One of my later questions was
about the equivalents in this area - and he had answered with "There's one on today, - the
Easter Meet!"
One of my views of this event showed single and multiple dog-sled teams
participating. I couldn't hear, let alone understand the conversations from this range, - but they
all seemed to be having tremendous fun and excitement. As my eyes scanned along the fjord,
I saw a tremendously fast snowmobile making a very smooth 'pass'. Woow!! That's
impressive. I wondered whether he was going for the World Ice-Speed Record !! My mind
then quickly dismissed that theory - as I already know the guy who's got that and he was far
faster - despite the rapidity that I could see below me. Sammy Miller holds that record with
a specially modified version (i.e. skids put on) of his "Vanishing Point" rocket car - and he
did 247.93 mph at Lake George N.Y on 15th February 1981.
Other views I enjoyed from this hill also included a long-distance view of Ammassalik
way across the silent hills. Every direction had a totally different view - except that they all
contained vast amounts of SNOW! It wasn't always silence, as there was, occasionally, the
distant sound of a tortured Yamaha - or its equivalent. On occasion, Bobbie and I were misled
into thinking that the noise represented Miki's return. The long-views as they came into sight,
showed it to be different from Miki's easily recognised clothing. We then returned to our
individual thoughts.
On returning from my photography and thoughts, once, to near the summit - it became
obvious that Bobbie was trying to ascend a smaller hill (probably about 20-30 feet high) on
top of our hill. It was very steep with quite deep snow covering it. Her feet sank in quite
alarmingly. Apparently, Ruby had tried it earlier - meeting considerable problems - and Ruby
is of a more slender build.
After a little more thought and experimentation, Bobbie resigned from the attempt.
However, it was a brilliant effort, only the actual summit having beaten her. In due course,
the next arrival on the skidoo approached. It was the female half of the couple from northern
England - enjoying Miki's driving.
Miki screamed to a halt on the whirring Yamaha. The good lady got off, and it will
be Bobbie's turn to return next! Nobody got on straight away. We all just chatted on this
lonely mountain-top. Bobbie and I took a few photos involving this snowmobile, - including
one of me on it 'for the collection'. Then Bobbie was invited by Miki to mount the vehicle,
which she did, and after a few pleasantries all round, shot off down the hill by a roundabout
route.
After a while, the 'scream' of the vehicle had gone - and I was left alone on this
hilltop with the Northern lass (who only spoke normally to her husband - or lover - and he
wasn't here!!) She, very soon, went in for the "ascent of the mini-mountain" on top of our
hill. Knowing, now, of Ruby's and Bobbie's fruitless, but adventuresome, missions on this
climb, I delivered their comments to this lass. Being younger, she tried it anyway. And
succeeded, - and quite gracefully too!!
I was then left, effectively, on my own at the summit of an isolated snow-covered
mountain on an island on the fringes of the Arctic Circle. THAT was a beautiful, secluded,
wonderful feeling. I, thus, wandered "lonely as a cloud" with fantastic thoughts and feelings
whilst enjoying the vistas from my perch.
All too soon (no idea of time today - despite the ever-present digital watch - as it
would be a sin to "watch time" in this environment!!) - the Yamaha appeared and, making
a sinuous climb, mounted the hill on which I was communing with nature. The woman's
'other half' was Mike's passenger on this occasion - so they could now be re-united and we
all had a chat together before my departure. Yes! It was now my turn to make a Yamaha-
powered- descent of this mountain.
I re-reminded Miki of my damaged base-of-spine, put on my woolly hat (not as smart
as Miki's!) and wondered what descent-path he would chose. All guesses were wrong, as there
being virgin-snow as far as the eye could see [in all directions] an infinite choice was
available to the intrepid pilot. We took a very steep descent initially - but then performed a
series of swoops and climbs - just for the fun of it - ascending and descending slopes like a
bird does in flight.
The general direction of our travel didn't even become apparent - but Miki MUST
have known where he was going. In one downward swoop, my hat caught the wind and
disappeared from my head - so the snarling Yamaha was requested to find it!! It was dead-
easy to see - as the whole world appeared white apart from my lost hat. Having retrieved it,
I then reinstalled it more securely (by a 6" nail through the head!) before we headed off for
roads and fjords lower down.
Having reached a relatively level stretch on a frozen fjord, Miki asked me if I wanted
to drive! You bet I did!! "Yes please" I said.
So Miki jumped out of the front seat and I, gingerly but excitedly, got off the pillion
position and took up my position in the driving seat. It felt very much like being on a 'quad'
or a 'trike' back in the UK. The 'throttle' also reminded me of a 'trike' that I had ridden. It
didn't have a 'twist-grip' throttle - but a small lever near the right hand grip.
Clearly, the response to the throttle was similar to the 'trike' as well! In other words,
it was set with its 'uptake' fairly fierce.Thus when the throttle was pushed (or pulled - I forget
which now!) there was, initially, no reaction, - but at a certain point the engine was grabbed
violently. Similarly, on de-throttling, all of a sudden the engine would 'turnoff' (well - it was
still running but not 'pulling'). This was how they invented 'kangaroo-petrol'!!
A certain 'learning-time' was essential to gauge 'how-far-off' and 'how-far-on' to go.
Fortunately, I had been through that process before - so it came-back reasonably quickly!!
The next thing to experiment with was how to get out of and back into existing ski-marks laid
down by previous vehicles. (Otherwise, it's like the old comedy-routine of a push-bike being
caught in sunken tramlines!)
Extricating the snowmobile from this predicament was, initially, solved in my own
way by going straight-on at a bend. Being quite long skis, they weren't always keen to do
even that! One had to be quite positive and brave. (I didn't really want to tip the machine
PLUS Miki and myself onto the frozen surface even at the critically-set throttle's minimum
speed - and who's travelling at the minimum speed anyway?) Turning off a straight rut needed
this nerve!!
I have no idea what distance that I drove the snowmobile (Skidoo), but the end came
only too soon when Miki indicated that he'd drive it into its base. My whole route was,
maybe, three to four miles, along definitely the nearest frozen fjord to Ammassalik. Next time
(I hope there will be a 'next time' within a year or two) - as for dog-sledding, I'll have to
make sure that I don't injure the base of my spine first!!! Thus ended the beginning of an era
- of "Roy's life on a 'skidoo' !" So far, therefore, I have not driven one over hilly terrain, -
but have experienced many miles of pleasure as the (injured) passenger to a certain
supersonic-Miki who appeared to have a death-wish here in Greenland. [Not the Black Death
- but a far more attractive White-Death!!] At the moment, Greenland is almost completely
silent except for the whines or snarls from the 'beasts' - it's a still relatively calm environment
- mass tourism hasn't yet spoilt it. Our visits are in groups of from three to fifteen people, but
I pity the environment when the invasion starts!!
Even this small number of people, as yet, doesn't have separate simultaneous Yamahas.
There is a sharing arrangement (as per the description in this 'tale') which does not pollute
the environment with noise and chemical exhausts. The Yamahas only snarl in the daytime -
whereas the huskies are howling all night. The question that I have to answer next is "Where
do I go for further Ski-doo experience?" Dogsledding and Ski-dooing here was just an
'introduction'. Even in the same brochure that I applied through, there were more advanced
trips and experiences. Currently, these take place in Swedish Lapland and out in the Yukon.
This list implies an increasing degree-of-difficulty!
.
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return to 1996 summary file to continue.