What's Wrong with our Plane?

     'Twas Tuesday, the second day of April in the year of my retirement (1996) -and on
this final day in Greenland we had to make connections back to Iceland where we would find
something like a Boeing 737 to fly back to England.

     The first stage of this return was to catch a helicopter from Ammassalik to Kulusuk
where we would find a DASH-7 aircraft to get to Iceland.

     Thus, I got up early, and arrived at my breakfast table at 6.50a.m. I was joined,
slightly later, by the very cheerful Ruby (the well educated, like-minded Chinese girl from
West Sussex). We had quite a long chat because Bobbie (her female companion from Sussex)
was "not well". We both finished at about 8.10 a.m. - checking out (accompanied by Bobbie)
at 10.00 a.m..

     We left for the Heliport on Ammassalik at 11.35a.m., meeting the cheerful staff there
but were soon informed by our 'minder' that we'd have to return to our Hotel (the big shack
on the hill-side) because our plane, the DASH-7, will not be at Kulusuk on time. We all
realised that the hotel is more comfortable than both Kulusuk AND Ammassalik airports -so
we all trundled back to Hotel Angmassalik. I say "trundle", but, of course, we were
transported by  the 'supersonic' ice-vehicle at an altitude of Zero-feet. These studded four-
wheel-drive vehicles were really incredible in the hands of our 'pilot'. I say "Zero-feet", but
that is with respect to road level,  not sea-  or  fjord-level. 

     These roads are at tremendous gradients, ice covered, clinging to the sides of the hills
on an off-shore island of Greenland!! Our altitude-changes were significant. Before leaving
the hotel earlier, we had got the impression that the helicopter was out of action. Now we
know that it's OK and the DASH-7 is suspect - not yet having arrived at Kulusuk!!

     Thus it was, at noon, that we were back in the comfort of the Hotel (already, the
temperature had rocketted up to MINUS FIVE (Centigrade)). We heard that the DASH-7 had
technical problems (Oh dear!!) but were not given any details. Some of the booking
conditions then, approximately, passed through my mind. [Like - "flights are not guaranteed
and visitors are expected to have sufficient funds for food and accommodation - until
conditions are better!"]   -  Gulp!!

     We had several postponements ALL day, but were provided with a meal [which we
later had to pay for! and TWICE for the same cup of coffee. Finally, at 4.20pm, we left the
hotel  - and the helicopter (a Bell 212) took off at 5.55pm - a trifle later than originally
expected.

     Fears that the REAL problems were with our whirly-bird were unfounded as the craft
took to the skies so smoothly. This time, I had got in FIRST to get a window-seat and good-
views for good photography. This was to prove the most spectacular flight, by far, of my life
to date. The view was tremendous - and we had such a comparatively low ground-speed,  that
the views passed so slowly so close below us. This is the SHEAR HEAVEN aspect of flying
- and so smooth!! I have been flying for over 30 years now - and had never realised how
really beautiful that 'flying' could be.

     The surrounding snow-clad hills, mountains, heliport and frozen fjords gave an aura
of magic and mystery, - an unreal computer-simulated voyage through an unreal environment.
NO, - this was real enough - and exuded shear beauty in all directions from our slowly,
smoothly, moving 'bus' back to Kulusuk.

     First we rose from the helipad, almost imperceptibly at first, then the heliport got
smaller and pirouetted away from us. It was just like being on the top of a double-decker bus,
but infinitely more smooth in its ride.  We were, of course, cruising a little higher that your
regular double-decker bus, - and with an infinitely more beautiful set of views. From my
privileged viewpoint next to the main left-hand-side window, my first views as we headed off
towards Kulusuk were of a low-lying flat terrain backed up by some totally snow-capped
mountains to the left and some lower-lying hills (also totally snow-covered) slightly ahead
and to the right of these mountains. The view changed so slowly, - far more slowly than on
a bus!! We just glided over the magical, white terrain with its hilly backdrops as the view-
change unrolled itself.


     The all-white ground-surface gently gave way to an unfrozen river with snow-covered
banks with the reflections of these banks showing on the water's surface and competing with
the crystal-clear view of the detail on the river-bottom. This was so very mind-boggling in
its beauty that it provided a trance-like series of 'visions' far out-doing any previous
experiences. 


     After crossing the river, we were over hummocky ground rather than the flat-lands
prior to the crossing. The hummocks (still totally snow-covered to quite a depth) were backed
by a minor hill which was backed by a series of mountains. We continued at low altitude, but
somewhat higher than before the river-crossing. The same smoothness continued as if we
were travelling on a very deep-pile invisible carpet.


 
     The terrain developed a more mountainous appearance as we progressed, crossing the
various outlying islands of South-East Greenland. Some dividing waters were pure crystal
clear and ice-free, - whereas some had a little of the inevitable pack-ice. From this low
altitude and low speed, it was far easier to study the pack-ice detail than when we had
traversed in the Denmark Strait the other day. Then, the DASH-7 aircraft had a higher speed,
higher altitude and, sometimes, the glaring sun at an inconvenient angle. This was infinitely
better - so more leisurely!!


 
     Later, the pack-ice waters were backed by snow-covered islands with smooth hills and
more-distant snow-peaked mountains. How much longer could this magical journey last? As
we descended into the hills, that question was answered for me by the appearance of the
recognisable features of Kulusuk airport. Moving along gracefully, our Bell helicopter found
its touch-down spot close to the terminal building. The snow was still the same depth as we
left it - about six feet in the uncleared areas, - and a soggy muddy splosh in wellies was
required to reach the comfort of the building after disembarking.

     After partaking, for a fair while, in the international banter at Kulusuk airport (a big
hut in the snow near a runway of wet mud!!)  our carriage arrived.  The Dane, who seemed
to be in charge, controlled our access to the 'apron' area - for international airport safety
reasons rather than because it was so soggy. At last we were entering the DASH-7, for which
we had waited so long, and took our seats for a later-than-expected takeoff (now 18.55hrs)
and flew over the Denmark Strait arriving in Iceland for a touchdown at Keflavik at 20.35
hours (22.35hrs local time!!) - a mere 10 hours late!! It is only a 45 minute bus-ride from
here to Reykjavik but it still  means that all exploration of this Country is OFF tonight. My
bed was entered at around midnight. Fortunately, in all the Greenlandic confusion I had the
presence of mind to obtain a receipt for the meal that I had at the Angmassalik Hotel. The
airline should pay for this, - shouldn't it?? Now, it was very late and I was tired so I
attempted to get some sleep before the early-morning call prior to our trip back to the UK.

     The 'call' was for 5a.m. but it came at 5.02 a.m - but I had already arisen at 4.54am.
I then quickly went down to my early breakfast at 5.10 a.m.. Bobby & Ruby arrived at about
the same time and we each indulged in a beautifully delicious Continental-style breakfast. It
looked so good even before we started.

     The driver appeared at 5.45 a.m. as planned - and our early morning bus-journey was
exciting and beautiful - despite the fact that we are now heading back to England! At
Keflavik, because of the lack of spending of Icelandic Kroners last night, I decided to spend
the unwanted currency in three phases by acquiring some food and drink for the journey - and
beyond! Expensive way of buying food, - but its more expensive to waste the currency!!
(Curious, really, because the airport-shop didn't have the pricing in any sort of Kroners, but
in US dollars! The change was received in Icelandic Kroners, the currency with which I
presented them.) I disposed of approximately œ13 worth of Kroners at the shop's various
counters.

     The flight to Heathrow was good and quick, but my sitting position still had to
acknowledge my injured spine-base. I was seated next to an Icelandic couple, - nice pair, -
and the full compliment of Americans was present in this 100%-loaded plane. After
touchdown, there followed a very long walk to "baggage retrieval" - but I still managed to
get there in 'second position'. (Not bad for a cripple, - eh??) Being early doesn't guarantee
getting away early. It was a horrendously long time before my case appeared. The presence
of a mysterious parcel on a ledge in the retrieval-area caused some concern (but no panic!).
Several of the airport staff were informing colleagues in other places by radio-telephone.

     Now we are in England, things can really go wrong! Despite, or because of, the late
arrival of my case, I had to wait an extra half-hour for the Rail-Air Coach to Reading. At
Reading, the trains, not being properly integrated in timetables caused me to miss one by 3
minutes. That resulted in my having to wait two-an-a-half-hours for the next train to
Worcester and Malvern. Eventually, Malvern Link Station arrived, but rather than SIT in a
taxi, I chose (as a preferable alternative) to walk the mile home on foot. That was the last of
my winter-series of adventurous explorations for 1996. We've still got three more seasons left
yet!!! Roll on the next expedition.