** MOROCCO BOUND **
This is the 28 June 2005 Edition of
this page.
CHAPTER ONE
GETTING to TANGIER and SALAMANCA
Because the journey didn't really start 'at home', but necessitated a series of
journeys just to meet up with my fellow-travellers, I will now explain and describe
how this was done.
The start of the journey wasn't at home, but in Madrid!! Thus first I had to get to Madrid,
but before I could do that I had to reach London! In the expectation of bad weather, I had
avoided the walk to Malvern Link, from home, by booking a taxi (unusual for me!!). I had
chosen a new, extremely local taxi-operator, living almost opposite my own house.
Since my start would be in the early morning, I made an early bedtime (for me!) of 9pm on the
previous evening. That taxi-driver had slotted-in an even earlier run for another customer as I saw my
taxi disappear down our little road into the dark! Hope he's not forgotten me!.
On 11 October, I had set the following day's alarm for 6.10am - having already done a 'dummy' run
the previous day. This guy didn't forget me - and picked me up at 7.10 a.m, on return from his
earlier run - and took me to the 'coach stop' in Malvern Link (opposite the Pioneer Store).
So far, so good!! The coach arrived there 5 minutes late and then hit TERRIFIC TRAFFIC on the
by-pass to Worcester, arriving in Pershore 25 minutes late! This was still the case after Evesham,
Cheltenham, Cirencester -- and all the way to Heathrow.
Due to the regulations about the time that drivers can spend driving each day etc, his time ran-out
at Heathrow causing a compulsory REST-STOP (of 30 minutes) there! For those with more
critical 'connections' than my own (most people's were like that) there was a transference to another National Express
coach as an 'option'. I declined that option due to the hassle of baggage transferences. I was content
to stay where I was!! To me, that change was unnecessary!! I still got to Victoria Coach Station just
a bit late - but no worries!!
I then walked from that coach-station to the undergound station (for the 'tube') and found the price
of the ticket necessary to get to PADDINGTON. It cost £1.50 from one of their machines. At Paddington,
I walked to the Ashley Hotel (a nice friendly little place that I've used for decades) and confirmed
my booking for 29th October - and also booked for 6th February for next year's enroute stop for
California. [In January of 2001, I had the unfortunate news that the California/Nevada trip had been
cancelled - due to insufficient numbers having booked. That meant unbooking this 'Ashley' arrangement later,
together with unbooking the National Express legs of the same journey!]
Then I went into the Paddington commercial area for Post Offices etc - first buying 11000 Pesetas
for Spain's use - costing £43.86 and then buying a ticket for the Gatwick Express for tomorrow's journey,
from the Paddington Station ticket office. I established from our receptionist, at the Ashley, that 6.00-6.15am
would be a good time to start, - from the viewpoint of a 7.25am checkin and 9.25am takeoff!!
After TV in the late-afternoon, I went to my usual MICKEY'S FISHBAR (have been going there for at
least four and a half decades!) in the early evening - having my usual fish, chips, peas, bread, butter
and coffee (£5 the lot!!). After a slow walk back to the Ashley, I had a quiet evening of TV in my own room.
13th October dawned and I was awake for almost every hour (mostly ON the hour) of the night. Not having
an 'alarm clock', I eventually got out of bed at 5.10 a.m., made a 'cuppa' with their facilities - and gradually
got ready for the day. I would leave without having breakfast between 6am and 6.15am for Gatwick. Being
'ahead of myself' before then, I actually left the small hotel at 5.50am and had caught the UNDERGROUND
train at 6am. on the Circle Line.
Trains from Victoria were quick and enjoyable - especially the GATWICK EXPRESS (where the price of
tickets ON the train was identical to prices in the station- as distinct from the HEATHROW EXPRESS and
Paddington!!). On the Gatwick Express I chatted happily with an American couple from Texas. Gatwick
turned up all too soon!! I checked-in there well before the 7.25am scheduled time, but then the long
waits were boring. At check-in, I'd opted for the window-seat 07F - but it was a long while for the
instruction for my BA2464 to "Wait in Lounge" to appear. Not until 8.47am did the "Board at Gate 45"
instruction arrive. .
When I got to Gate 45, I found that it came in several parts: A, B, C ... L !!.
45B was for
OUR plane, but later the authorities changed theirs minds to a "Go to Gate 58" instruction. That was way
back where we had come from!! Alledgedly, the delay was because the cleaners were late getting to the
aircraft. Further delays after that were because we'd missed Eurocontrol's ATC slot. Takeoff then had
a 'revised schedule' (or tactic?!) from 9.25 to 10.20am!
So we took-off nearly an hour late - but, despite that, the pilot "gave it a bit of wellie" and arrived on-time
at 12.55hrs local time! We collected our individual luggage items and met a SPANISH ("Insight") representative
beyond the check-out point. It seemed that most of the 'travellers' in our group were AMERICANS. That
was a total surprise to ME!! The reps divided us into the 'Spain trip' (Cuzco Hotel) and (like me) those
visiting Portugal, Spain and Morocco. We would go to the Holiday Inn once we got onto our bus!!
Once partially settled in, I went for an exploratory walk in MADRID city, initially heading in a
westerley direction. Rather than go in a direction at right-angles following this, my main concern
was to keep out of the very hot sun. Thus I turned 180 degrees, returned, and kept in the shade!!
Warnings about 'thefts' in this area (a typical BIG city) existed in both my room and in the streets
around the city itself. This apart, it was 'just another town' and of no interest to me! I suppose this
is the penalty for stopping en-route to Morocco!!! It is undesirable - and even more so because of
the HEAT. Beggars were on the streets in small numbers - but not too worrying! In my small primitive
room, I did find part of the electrical system with enabled me to shave.
Afterwards in the early evening, I studied my route, and the places, for tomorrow. Once the day had
cooled down in later evening, I then took a reasonably pleasant walk in terraces and shady areas and
returned to my 5th floor room in the hotel. One very pleasant thing about this hotel is the separation
into smoking and non-smoking FLOORS, not just 'rooms'! My floor was a 'non-smoker (one of three
consecutive floors!). I then chatted with some Americans before going into Stephen's "Welcome
Drink" - presumably so that we could all 'bond'?! Stephen is our guide here. Anyhow, we all talked
about our own, and each other's, interests. One interesting American lady, interested in my writings,
was instrumental in the introduction of the word 'travelogue' onto this Web-site. After these chats,
I bought some cakes and drinks from a shop for 300 pesetas, and got an early night (about 9-10 pm)
because of EARLY start THIS morning! We were all extremely tired!
14th October 2000
After a few overnight awakenings - and very DARK with very THICK curtains - I awoke, got up
and dressed from 6.30 a.m.. From 7a.m, I indulged in the buffet-breakfast with 'bits of everything'
of the low fat, low cholesterol, persuasion!! I emerged from there, overfull and feeling almost bloated!
I got my case out for the journey to SALAMANCA at 7.40 a.m, because we were due for departure at
9a.m.. I got into my appropriate coach at 8.45 a.m. ready for this journey - and we went up the A6
from Madrid and then the 110 down to AVILA where we stopped and looked at the walled 11th Century
Castle as well as entering the big Church/Cathedral of ST. THERESA.
Bought, before coaching off, an icecream of beautiful flavouring - for 125 pesetas. That set me up well!
Then it was on to SALAMANCA, chatting all the way with a Canadian woman (called Geraldine) that I've travelled with
(virtually from MADRID!). We checked into the GRAN HOTEL, there, and I paid for TWO optional
extras (with 9900 Psts) which included Gibraltar, a Berber Village and the High Atlas Mountains. (I paid
for these with 'plastic' at the approximate rate of 275 Psts/£). The English/Portuguse guy couldn't accept
my Sterling cost for Gibraltar (£12 only!) - even though he said, in principle, he could!!
Casually, in the mid-afternoon, I walked around, and enjoyed, Salamanca's PLAZA MAYOR (which was
VERY close, virtually adjacent, to the hotel!) It was an attractive level square, reminiscent of Brussels'
GRANDE PLACE, and not to dissimilar to some squares in Venice & Rome.
An Internet Cafe was visited,
externally, and photographed on a subsequent mid-afternoon stroll. In my hotel room later, I studied the maps
ready for tomorrow's visit to FATIMA (the shrine, you know!) I also looked into the possibilities of the shaver
points and the Bidet!
Then I went for a stroll Southwards down SAN PEBLO, through PLAZA DE COLON (with the Christopher
Columbus connections) - and then further on to the 'fabulous' Saint ESTEBAN cathedral entrance with its
sculptured 'works of art' on its south-facing front-face. Even if I took hundreds of photos, it could not do
justice to its detail!! I was glad that I left my camera in the hotel room, as it prevented my getting too snap-happy
in this situation!! I then passed several well-sculptured churches - like Clerica and Las Augustinas. Returning to
the GRAN HOTEL via PLAZA MAYOR, I pondered on the thought that here must be the best town-wall
that I've seen for a long time! Passing time in my room until the 8.30pm evening meal (I refuse to call such
a late meal 'dinner'!!) - I later joined three Australians and two Americans at my table for the meal which went
on until 10.30pm. Back in my room I then prepared for tomorrow's journey into PORTUGAL.
15 October 2000 (Sunday)
Now in SALAMANCA, I had a reasonable night's sleep, - the 'telephone alarm' going off at 6.25 a.m -
and it reminded me that I needed to get ready for the 7am breakfast (and had to get my case out at the
same time!) We will be ON THE MOVE today! With the heat of the day, I made my first SERIOUS
use of a hotel BIDET. (Unless I used one with the same reality in the Dolomites a few years back!).
A little later, I was ready in the coach for its 7.45am departure for LISBON (over the border into PORTUGAL)
via the E80, the Spain/Portugal border, the I5, the I7 and so to COIMBRA. After that, we went by some sideroads
and the IP1 to a 'religious objects gift shop' (better than the one we'd visited in Jerusalem [ if you like
that sort of thing!! I definitely DON'T!!] - this one being complete with a Restaurant and (for me) a SNACK
BAR!!)
Then we were off to FATIMA (the religious shrine where PILGRIMS went on their knees there, and back, - how many
miles had these sad, pathetic and 'thick' people come, losing all sense of REASON ? Perhaps they'd never had
any experience of 'reason' in the first place!)
In fact, our guide STEPHEN, says that no-one seeks or gets PHYSICAL cures - but, probably,
some physiological (did he mean " psychologial") help towards inevitable death!! We then continued on our
way to LISBON with its 17Km long river-bridge. "Settling in" for the evening, I got my keys to the
room, a safe and a MAP of the area. Today, we did about 285 miles by coach. I took TWO WALKS
(a few miles) around the Novotel, Lisbon, each time returning from the LOUSY surrounding streets.
The only 'good part' was about a mile away. At the Novotel, I bought a packet of 'crisp-like' refreshments
that would nourish me during some TV viewing in the evening - when I watched such items as
Motor-cycling, Technology etc..
I turned in for bed at a sensible time. (Early for me!)
16th October 2000 (Monday)
After a fair night's sleep, I got up at 6.15 am to prepare for the day's sightseeing in LISBON. I'll
go for breakfast at 6.30am., the phone will make its 'call' at 7am - and we'll depart at 8.30am ("before
the traffic", Stephen says!)
I left the hotel with minimum luggage and NO jacket for the journey to the outskirts of LISBON. We went
Westards past a big (well, LONG) bridge, calling later at the ALFAMA district (small streets etc) and then
the ESTORIL area. All this time, I was chatting with my seat-companion, Geraldine - a friendly, shy, lady
from VANCOUVER. Despite her shyness, we found out that we shared a lot in common with views and
interests in a range of subjects.
Later, we visited the BELEM TOWER and the MONUMENT TO THE NAVIGATORS (remember
the famous 'Henry the Navigator'?).
At CASCUUS (as elsewhere when we were 'free to wander'), we
covered our own separate areas of private interests. I covered the harbour area, a small bit of shops, then
a place where I got a Shrimp Ommelette (with very interesting additions - although not all used or consumed -
like French fries, Bread & Butter, coffee, a plate of olives, side cucumber, tomatoes, lettuce and carrots!!)
Back to the coach, later going NORTH (e.g Guincho, Malveira, - some side-roads, woods, forests and
hills) - to the fabulous hillside village of SINTRA (which produced a great stop for refreshments,
walks, sightseeing) - before returning to LISBON via a different route to the hotel (a NOVOTEL!) at
about 5pm (about an hour later than anticipated!)
I'd completed my write-ups by 17.28hrs after this 60 mile trip today, the day being organised by a different
driver and guide. That guide was a local woman (Portuguese) called LOURA, who was very informative,
interesting and covered many places, monuments, history, characterisations - with a fair sense of humour and
an attractive smile.
I wrote on cards from FATIMA to friends back in the UK - and posted them this very evening. I then
wandered around the NOVOTEL's area in Lisbon for a possible evening meal. The nearest was a
cafeteria with reasonable omelettes but an ATROCIOUS smoky atmosphere! Later in the evening,
I watched TV covering various interests of mine.
I went to bed at 9pm, after some MOTOR CYCLING from BRANDS HATCH! (Fortunately with
English commentary!)
17th October 2000 (Tuesday)
Although waking up during the night at 3.30am and 5.40am (toiletry and 'dressing preps' respectively!)
I was just about dressed when the 6.00am telephone alarm call arrived! I then prepared myself and the
cases for today's journey to LISBON and SEVILLE (by coach!).
We went over the bridge (not all THAT long or impressive) after a wonderful buffet breakfast, and headed
along the A2, later the 259 etc to the Portuguese/Spanish border, before continuing after a short stop, to
SEVILLE.
There were some wonderful city-buildings visited once there. The modern-ish EXPO site was one of them. The visit-list
had to be modified due to DOUBLE ASSASSINATIONS here YESTERDAY!!!! (Carried out by the ETA
terrorists on a couple of doctors - who were 'not on their side'. Remember, folks, that the ETA 'ceasefire' declared
in 1998, ended a year later in 1999, a year before my visit!). Extra security abounded and the use of the
cathedral was now out-of-bounds for tourists and other sightseers. (Like the victims were going to be buried
there soon!) This is getting to be a little too close for comfort!!
After changing £5 Sterling into 1100 ptas near the ice-cream shop, and visiting a MUSLIM and a JEWISH
cathedral, we got back in our coach and returned to the GRAN HOTEL (our one!). There, after a hour for
photograhy and 'getting ready', (and changing another £10 Sterling into 2560 ptas) we then left in our coach
to go to the FLAMENCO Show at a theatre in SEVILLE. Not only very musical, this venue provided us with
several courses of delicious food (before the Show started!). We continued to eat and drink during the
performances - indeed, until the close of the show!!
Our main journey by coach today was 220 miles - and the small evening trip was 10 miles approximately.
The GRAN HOTEL RENACIMIENTO at Seville is like a palace, externally and internally.
There is great
LUXURY and STYLE. It was the first time that I've attended live FLAMENCO DANCING and their
music. What a fabulous evening!! I shared my table with an American couple. He used his 'flash' camera from
FAR too great a distance when worthwhile colour scenes were present and active!! Some people NEVER learn -
they just HOPE, I guess.
18th October 2000 (Wednesday)
I awoke in my 'palace' in SEVILLE and started preparing for the day before the phone provided its customary 'alarm'.
I slowly prepared from 6.15am..
I slowly prepared from 6.15am', the wake-up call coming at 6.30am.. It was a REAL person, not even a 'simulated'
Japanese or American recording, that responded to my English 'Thank You'.
I got to my breakfast well in time, but no-one was allowed in!! All of a sudden, about 3000 people descended on the one
multi-breakfast room!! It was SO CROWDED!!! We dubbed it the "breakfast room from HELL"! It was very good food,
though - but the organisation was HORRIBLE. No! The DISORGANISATION was fantastic!!
As normal with buffet-breakfasts, one needs to return to the many tables to get things. Many from my table 'gave up'
and some said "I've had enough of this!" and went. Despite my need for food, I, too, 'gave up', - wondering if my seat
would still be available on my possible return.
Back in my room, I then collected my hand-baggage for the next trip from SEVILLE to CORDOBA. This was a very
interesting and beautiful place with lots of side-alleys, muslim mosques, catholic church re-uses etc, etc.. We went round
and round in never-ending circles (completely lost!) - just following other members recognised from our group.
The Muslim (?) Guide had a very good sense of humour, kept us all informed, amused and educated (apart from the
fact that we were apparently lost!)
We were back to the coach in three hours, ready for our return to SEVILLE, making the return distance for today about
130 miles.
I had chats with an American, called Tom, both to and from CORDOBA on the back seat of the coach. We stopped for
photos of the 'black bulls' that seem to be on several hill-tops! In Cordoba, I had explored, on foot, the bridges,
streets, cafes and food - and back in my own room in Seville, I started to experiment with the TV & Radio and read
today's write-ups.
IMPRESSIONS OF SEVILLE
Our HOTEL was part of the EXPO Site from about 1992/1993, which accounts for its VAST size and MARBLE
throughout.
I pondered on whether it was also an OLYMPIC site. Fresco motives and vast stylings indicted that
it might have been, - especially with an ATLAS/AGENA rocket nearby!!
The Expo site caused the creation of two FANTASTIC 'bridge designs' - which I walked several times as part of
my GUADALQUIVER RIVER solo-walks. My last such walk, done for refreshment searching, went across the
river - getting back to the hotel at 20.00hrs..
I got the radio's Channel Two for pleasant music, but the TV was hopeless!! This room of mine in the EXPO's
hotel was done out lavishly in MARBLE throughout and had "TV and Radio extensions" into the bathroom!
19th October 2000 (Thursday)
This day, I was to leave the old city of SEVILLE, head off for ALGECIRAS visit
Gibraltar and cross the entrance of the 'Med' for Tangier and MOROCCO in
general.
We's travelled on a variety of coaches and buses before the end of that day, catching the FERRY from ALGECIRAS
to TANGIER for its 38 mile crossing (approx). There, we had a good meal (a curious one) sharing the table with some
American and Canadian couples. Afterwards, I found the locals doing 'curious arithmetic' when I was buying two
bottles of 'mineral water'. The were priced at 50dirhams each but so 'save using my change' I bought the two for
a total of 40dirhams!! I then had to put my WATCH 'back' two hours for this new TIME ZONE. The dominant
language in Morocco seems to be FRENCH. That's handy!
move onto the FES journey page
Return to Roy's home page for full list
of books etc either finished or under preparation.
or return to Morocco index page