I had been investigating the possibilities in catering for one's-self
in the COOL part of the year in Portugal - like January.  

What I came up with is a Bed & Breakfast accommodation in the offshore
island of Madeira from Jan 17-31 !! The baggage allowance, for
the flight there is reduced to 15Kgs - said to be because of the short runway
and the need for a reduction in the braking distance after touchdown!!



It's even more fun than that!! I'll be flying by a Sabre Jet.



Well - not exactly what we are all thinking of, but a JET of SABRE 
AIRWAYS. I was also informed of changed timings because the runway, there,
were due to have some maintenance work done on it!

	Sure enough, when the plane landed following a pre-warning about SEVERE BRAKING,
several armloads of reverse-thrust was applied. Now I'd never landed on an aircraft- 
carrier before!! And it must be rather unique to do it on a jet-liner (this is a 
Boeing 737/800).
	Not only in Madeira (Funchal) airport not close to Madeira, it only has ONE runway and
NO  TAXIWAYS!! That's because it is built in coastal location - and does indeed resemble an
aircraft carrier hanging off the side of an extinct volcano!!
	What the pilot (or his autopilot) does is this:-
(a) Shortly after touchdown, decelerate to a slow speed by half-way along this runway.
(b) Taxi along the runway to near its far end, using the right-hand side.
(c) Turn the monster in the WIDTH of the runway. (No highspeed turnoffs!)
(d) Taxi back along the runway to the Terminal (near its midpoint!)
(e) The runway is then free for another landing (or indeed a TAKEOFF) to be 
     slotted in!



I was then driven through the winding mountain road to my chalet in the NW of Funchal, -
as seen below.






  IMPRESSIONS of MADEIRA!!
 
Apart from the dramatic approach to the island via its on-shore aircraft carrier, its volcanic
origins were never far from one's mind.

Not that an imminent eruption was expected - far from it - but the steepness of the slopes
and crags was a continuous strain on muscles that, although used to hills, found a far greater
challenge in the vertical ascents on Madeira. Frequent stops had to be made to allow both
muscles and heart a 'rest period'!

In that way, any climb could be handily 'cut to size'. They could even be interspersed with
Levada Walking and exploration. Levadas have provided Madeira with its irrigation channels 
since at least 1461 and these channels (about 2150Km of them) are on more gentle inclines
that cover the island.

The severest slopes were at "Curral das Freiras" (the Valley of the Nuns) as seen below.




More about the details of exploration of this unique long-extinct (??) volcanic island  in the
  Madeira Travelogue .  'Bye for now, Folks!!




ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 


Wishing to return, yet again, to this beautiful area - I had arranged further
walks etc there from the end of MARCH to early APRIL 2000.

This time, I was based in Patterdale and explored the Northern Lakes first, covering Kirkstone
Pass, Ambleside, Rydal Water, Grasmere and Thirlmere.

Later, I tackled the Southern Lakes, - coveringWindermere, Bowness, Coniston Water (not 
forgetting the Donald Campbell and Leo Villa memorials).

Whilst exploring the villages at, and just outside, the northern fringes of the area, and having stopped
at a small refreshment place in Caldbeck, I found something different. It was there that I heard of the
 grave of the infamous John Peel (of hunting 'fame'). The well worn path in the church-yard lead me, 
and a few others, to what is now a bright headstone (compared with those around it) - after the 
inevitable ravages of of the anti-hunting personnel.

 Not really into the works of minor-writers, I curtailed my calls on Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter!! 
I did, however, get some further gen on Willy's family life and his relations.



Return to  Top of AD2000 index



SHETLAND and ORKNEY Islands 



SHETLAND ISLANDS   





The 1999 attempt for the islands of Arran, Orkneys and Shetlands was cancelled due 
to insufficient numbers of interested people. I had been looking into various 
options - and found a base in the Shetlands at Sumburgh
 

	I  explored this island for about a 'week and a half' in JUNE 2000, -
with my main interests being the scenery and the fantastic JARLSHOF archeological
site towards the Southern extremity of Shetland itself.
	My route to Scotland was somewhat more devious with my new 'operator'
this time. Although I was picked up near my expected time, the route, thereafter, was
unexpected! I had an overnight stop at the 'horse-racing-place' of Wetherby and wandered
around the unfamiliar scenery there. I found a new friend, apparently English but with 
strong American and Canadian accents mixed in. Despite his 'walking-problems' we did
manage to do a bit. This guy, funnily enough, currently lives in California, in the same place
where I went in1966, the beautiful Monterey town and peninsula. We spoke much about
the beauty of the place - and its surrounding features, like the "17-mile drive". (In 1966,
because of the pressures of  "Meeting Schedules" - I unluckily missed the experience!).
	My bathroom, a useful 'ensuite', was less than useful halfway through the night
when I awoke needing to use it! It was one of a number of things 'not-working' at this rather
'swish' hotel's room of mine. It was impossible to get in - so hurried, urgent calls to the
night-porter ensued. As an expert at undoing the door wasn't going to become available
until the morning, he recommended my use of the 'public one'. The lady who appeared, by 
my special request since the 'night porter' had forgotten to inform the 'expert' - was surprised 
that no-one knew the 'trick'. She did - and also dealt with a number of other problems which
I needed to report. 

	Well, now I can head off towards Scotland - and especially Shetland!! After a very
nourishing breakfast this became a reality. It was a late departure - this company seems to
specialise in these!! We headed up the A1, having lunch at the Washington Services - seeing 
the "Angel of the North" near Newcastle.


[I heard the 'Angel of the North' twice referred to as "The Rust-Bucket" and I suppose it 
would be if it's made out of iron and left in the rain!]



	Our entry to Scotland was made over the 'Cheviots' at 14.25 - and because of the sun and the 
heat, I made sure of my ice-cream 'break' whilst in Jedburgh from 14.50 until 15.20..



	 There was a later stop for refreshments, again, at the Kinross services at 17.10 for a 20 min
break. After then we made the most direct route to Aberdeen which we reached at 19.15 before the 
great evening meal at 8pm. Whilst we were eating the various courses, the strains of some great music
came from an adjacent room. I had the feeling that it was 'LIVE' rather than 'canned'! Excusing myself 
from the table, I investigated - and sure enough, it was! I informed the others at my table - so we made
a rather quicker termination of the food than originally planned!!.



	So then, progressively, more and more of us retired to that room and listened to the 
marvellous Scottish Music of  Charlie Abel who, with his accordion and backing, 


his humour and sense of fun, was more than just a good musician - he was 
a COMPLETE entertainer!! In one of his breaks between sets, I had a wee chat with him a bought 
a couple of his excellent tapes.



	Having 'turned in' for the evening after this wonderful entertainment, I had a good night's sleep
and the following morning saw me ready for the OFF at 8 a.m  but wrote a latter to my daughter before 
actually departing at 9.45 a.m.. In Aberdeen I wandered around the docks, gardens (including a wonderful 


out-of-town indoor garden !) and consumed my own refreshments and a tasty  icecream. Unfortunately,
the guide assumed we were all shopaholics and left us to this crazy activity!!!



 	Not being a shopaholic, myself, I found myself in this 'concrete jungle' and had to find a 
less-unpleasant location to pass the time!! Eventually, my wanderings brought me to the 'City
Bus Station' which not only had some seats - but a small refreshment area. Being, now, about 3pm 
I ate a bit then trundled off to the specified hotel at which to pick up our coach at 4.30pm..



	We were onboard the 'MV St Clair' by 4.40pm and by 6pm our evening-meal started in
its Viking Restaurant. By 7 pm we were finished and I bought some 'cards' onboard, on the deck
below the restaurant. Not long afterwards I decided to turn-in for the night, as tomorrow we land
on the  SHETLAND Isles.



	Chatted with fellow-travellers in a small lounge on the boat - and chatted about my 
hero, Jo Grimond, who was MP for Orkney & Shetland. A Shetland Lady, who obliged a female
fellow-passenger by providing her with some travel-sickness pills (they are not allowed to sell
them on-board!)- commented on the 'rivalry' between the two sets of islands. Thus Jo was 
humourously dismissed as an Orcadian!!.



	Sleep was good, overnight, the seas giving us a lovely CALMNESS. So no problems 
there! I got up and dressed at 6.05 am.



An announcement, at 6.30 am, over the Tannoy indicated that "Breakfast is now available" - so I
thought "I'll go along for some of  that!" After a good breakfast (grapefruit, coffee, scrambled eggs
and sausages) I then went for a walk outside o Deck7 - it was a beautiful tranquil ocean - no wonder 
the crossing has been so smooth!!


Eventually, after all other passengers had got OFF, we could take our cases to the reception area
for putting on our coach (I'd remembered that it was the black and white one!). After 'boarding', we
heard that we are not going direct to Sumburgh but took the scenic route via Scalloway, Tondra, 
Burra, the Tingwall Airstrip, Whileness and Weisdale (with their "Voes" [open sea-lochs!]) - thence
via Sumburgh Airport to 'our' Sumburgh Hotel.!


Anxious to get off to the fabulous JARLSHOF (major nearby Archeology site) before our coach took
us to the CROFT HOUSE MUSEUM I chose to have a set of 'quicky' snacks comprising cheese
sandwiches and chicken soup!! The Croft House MUSEUM was last inhabited as a house in 1960 - 
but dates back to circa 1880..



After that visit, it was back to the hotel by about 4.15pm. My indulgence in the evening meal was
 from 7pm until 8.30pm during which time we had interesting chats between people on our table
 (self, plus a husband and wife, plus an old Londoner!)




The morning of 21st June 2000 dawned and I started my activities with a good breakfast - fruits
and a mixed grill - a mixed this with chats to Christine, Margaret and a 'computer-woman'. After
breakfast we took the coach for a visit to Quendale Mill (for multistage milling techniques) via 
Spygie and Bigton for refreshments.



Then it was on to Lerwick for a personal walkaround and a 'fish-and-chip' lunch! Afterwards,
we visited the UP HELLY AA exhibition (plus video) - showing local ancient customs and 
annual ceremonies. Later still, we went to an excavation-site which had just been restarted this 
season in the hills and cliffs. Then it was back to the hotel for a 7pm meal. Again, I indulged
in chats with friends Chris, Margaret and a guy to my right. We finished that at 8.30pm (ish)
following which I returned to my room as the continuous rain was so intense. It was continuous
throughout the meal!! Will it continue tomorrow??.


(....   continued details in the  Shetland File   ....)