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OUTER HEBRIDES
I covered HARRIS & LEWIS plus, later, Isles of Mull, Iona and Staffa, - with several stops, including : Glasgow, Tarbert, Portree and Oban.
But let's start at the beginning!! NOT all coaches could be booked via the NATIONAL EXPRESS web-site. They have had to relinquish their potential monopoly situation by allowing the Isle of Wight & Scotland - and maybe more - to develop their own services.
Whilst I could find all the Hebrides Ferry Times and Scottish CityLink times on the Internet - purchase of their tickets was not done by E-Commerce! As a foot-passenger on the ferries, I didn't even have to 'book' tickets. With Scottish CityLink, I could book my tickets over the phone and quote my plastic-card number!
9th May 2001 (Wednesday)
Even before catching the local bus to meet up with National Express in MALVERN, I did a dummy-run (a 'walk' really!) to the bus-stop. The 11.02 bus arrived on time the day before my journey began, and its luggage-carrying arrangements appeared adequate! However, on the ACTUAL day of departure (9th May 2001), there had been no sight of the same bus by 11.12a.m, my critical time to leave for the "shank's pony" alternative, so I then walked to the PIONEER (Coop) stop . I needed to be there for the 11.48a.m bus to BIRMINGHAM's Digbeth Coach Station for my connection to Glasgow!!
Arriving in BIRMINGHAM with, surprisingly enough, plenty of time to catch the Glasgow (Service 539) connection - I found out that there was a simultaneous coach (also a 539) also going to EDINBURGH!! Our Glasgow-coach departed about 15 minutes late with inefficient 'people-processing'!
NON-SMOKERS, like myself, waited inside the waiting room (no announcements forthcoming here!) but SMOKERS waited in a LONG QUEUE outside by the coaches. Consequently, I was almost at the back of the queue, and the bus when we got on!! The 'drug-addiction' of these smokers had caused them to ignore the queueing instructions which had previously been given. Although it was difficult from this very rear of the coach to find out where we were at any given time (and follow my maps), our route took us basically along the M6 Motorway, all the way North to GLASGOW, with an extra call at HAMILTON to 'set down' passengers at their Coach Station. A few miles later, we were at the BUCHANAN Coach Station at Glasgow (after 332 miles today on the two coaches). I couldn't find my orientation out of this place so returned to it and caught a taxi (unusual for me) to the Guest House (Vivienne's place) that I was going to walk to . Because of my 'early start' the following day, I paid her for this evening's accommodation and gave my arrival-time back here for 20th May. She then booked my taxi (for 6.30 am) for the start of tomorrow's return to BUCHANAN for the 'next leg' and showed me how to find my own breakfast between 5.30 and 6.30 - and lent me an alarm clock!! Nice lady!!
10th May 2001 (Thursday)
I woke up frequently, continuously 'on the hour', overnight. Vivienne's electric-powered conventional alarm clock 'went off' before 5.30am! I washed and dressed before going downstairs for a 'help-yourself' breakfast. I had rice-crispies, milk, yoghurt and orange-juice before getting my case and bag down to put in the hall while I watched through the breakfast-room window for my 6.30 am taxi. This arrived and took me the mile and a half to BUCHANAN STREET COACH STATION. There, I found an index that pointed me to 'Stance 54' for the UIG COACH which was slightly late.
Soon, however, I was headed north-west through DUMBARTON and then, on my best weather (and MOST SCENIC) route for a long time, going North whilst I headed along "the bonnie, bonnie banks of LOCH LOMOND"!! We went from Balloch, through Luss, Tarbert, Ardui and into Crainlarich - which was totally beautiful. before going via Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy (A82) and passing high level lochs before dscending to GLEN COE!!
I didn't massacre anyone here!! A foreign couple (who could have been either RUSSIAN or from some EASTERN BLOC country) got off the coach (about to massacre whom?). Along the whole route, people were getting on and off, using the vehicle as their aid to exploration. I did about 231 miles on coaches today! On the way to UIG, with further beautiful scenery and stops all the way, I passed through, or saw, the following:-
FORT WILLIAM, (at Safeway's!)
SPEAN BRIDGE,
LOCH OICH,
INVERGARRY,
LOCH GARRY,
The A87 to LOCH CLUANIE and GLEN SHEIL,
LochDuich, Eilean Donan Castle,
KYLE of LOCHALSH,
The Skye Bridge,
PORTREE & UIG
There was a MAJOR RESTRUCTURING of the Invergarry to UIG road.
Actually, the driver misled me by saying that the coach arrives at 13.50hrs (TRUE) and that the Ferry leaves at 14.00hrs (UNTRUE - but the one to LOCHMADDY does.) The Ferry to TARBET still leaves at 18.00hrs - as per my info from theor website and the UIG office.
That gave me PLENTY of time for toilets, a canteen meal, reading and local exploration!!
When I eventually got on the Ferry (for its approx 25 mile journey), I noticed that the computer screen, in a corridor, showed a HELPFUL synthetic radar display. In that short journey, near its end, I made friends with a 'local' who had a car (I was asking him about the location of Flora Morison's house) and as we docked he said "I'll take you - to Tigh na Mara". It was about a mile, only, but his helpfulness at this time of the evening was well appreciated.
Apart from listening to some radio (Radio2-FM) in my room, I was soon out on a small walking exploration around TARBERT, the small port at this end of the island. In fact, it is the 'capital' of HARRIS - which forms the southern end of the ISLE OF LEWIS. That easy walk was sufficient to cool me off!! I found the Post Office and the absent 'Foot & Mouth' restrictions for walkers. Thankfully, this island had avoided the scurge as it swept the UK!
Then I managed to get a good night's sleep after listening to some more Radio2FM - sleeping right through to 5.15am.. Multiple 'yawnings' from adjacent rooms awoke me! These were from the people who were to catch the 'Early Ferry'!
11th May 2001 (Friday)
After washing and dressing from about 7am, I then mooched around finding out if the breakfast starts at 8am (which is what I thought FLORA had said!) or 8.30 am (as a notice on my bedroom wall had indicated). 8.30am was correct, but I got my cereals, juice and coffee by 8.25am..
Mr & Mrs Hart, from Glasgow, joined me at about 8.30am - and FLORA came and chatted and made the 'introductions'! I actually got through MORE toast than normal. The main breakfast was of scrambled eggs and tomatoes for me.
After 9a.m., I made my way to the Post Office and withdrew £100 in cash (the limit on PO books!) from one of my accounts -in Scottish Notes! That was useful when I called for groceries - a few shops along, - before returning to my OWN room. I also got timetables for the Island - but no ROVERS are done here!
Having mooched around the Harbour area, - and TARBERT generally, - I decided to go to STORNAWAY today, and the weather is good too! Thus my plans are 'coming good', and my bus left at noon from Tarbert,- for the princely sum of £4.40 return! This journey is a STUNNING one - and reminds me of the LOFOTEN ISLANDS in Norway! (If the truth is to be told, I had decided on the Outer Hebrides originally because it might resemble them.) All the big fjords, lakes, hills and waters made the similarity COMPLETE!
STORNAWAY, compared to Tarbert, is a BIG TOWN as distinct from a village! Certainly It has more eating places - but it MUST be said that the vast majority of them are TAKE-AWAYS!! Having done two laps of the town, I came across a sit-down option, - a restaurant called the "Coffee Pot", near the bus-station. Even the nearby Ferry Terminal does not have a restaurant!
On trying to find out how to get to the PARK area on the other side of the water, I did two further laps of the town before finding the INFO OFFICE and buying (for 50p) a local town-map. The walk, that followed, took me over a bridge and into the area. I saw LEWS CASTLE (beyond the "Boatman's House") and returned via KEITH STREET to the Bus Station. Being TOO HOT in the waiting room, I joined the driver on his extra trip to collect the TEENAGERS from their school. Clocking up about 73 miles on today's trips, I later retuned to TARBERT and Flora's Guest House.
12th May 2001 (Saturday)
Again, I got washed and dressed and 'down' for the first part of breakfast at about 8.25am.. Others came in later.
About 9.15 am, I went to the TOURIST INFO place and found out about the walks (and their rules). It would be nice to find some simple public path, here on the Island, without having to worry about 'access' very 100yds! I learned about the brochure, which I purchased for 50p, especially THE HARRIS WALK and tried the first bit to 'try it out'. My aim was to leave MOST of it until tomorrow, when I could explore the place on a Sunday (because EVERYTHING, apart from CHURCH, seems to be illegal on the sabbath here in the Outer Hebrides!!)
I'd found out, earlier, that boats don't run TO or FROM the island on Sundays, shops don't open, BUSES don't run, but I'd find out, tomorrow, that cyclists are still legal (if not bored!). I didnt do any bus-mileage today either - but did two or three minor walks in the day, but it was FAR TOO HOT for 'serious' mileage.
A major thing, today, was an interesting talk with a Group of SSP Members (that, surprisingly, means ' Scottish Socialist Party', a quite different entity to any other Socialist Party that I've ever encountered) in the TARBERT Main Street. Elections are imminent here.
A walk in the evening preceeded the hours on Radio2 (Eurvision Song Contest!) - but I only witnessed the first three country's votes,- Estonia then being in the lead! However, in tomorrow morning's news, I heard that the eventual winner was ESTONIA. It's such a peaceful, musical country!!
13th May 2001 (Sunday)
During breakfast, I chatted with two old ladies visiting here from Tennessee. They are travelling by car - and I told them about my transport-changes earlier in the year! We also talked about our respective travels and I added some information on the 'World Landspeed Records' activities!
After breakfast, I then went on the HARRIS WALKWAY, southwards near the coast via CADHA, DIRECLEIT and CELANNDIBIG - and back by the roadway! I later explored ALL the back-alleys and by-ways of TARBET, wondering how so few peoplemake a viable community! I found MORE up in the rocky hills!! On this part of the walk, I sustained a damaged ankle! During today (and yesterday) I did NO mileage on ANY form of transport.
14th May 2001 (Monday)
After another chatty breakfast with two ladies from Tennessee, I was intent on rejourneying my way back over the Hebridean landscape to STORNAWAY. First, however, I had a question for FLORA (the hostess) about when she would like me to move my 'things' to my new (twin) room (again for solo occupation). Her answer was "As soon as you like" - so I moved items from Room2 to Room3 straight way - and then handed back the single key and collected the 'twin' key to go out with me.
My first visit was to the local POST OFFICE for a further £100 withdrawal. (I should now have enough for Flora's fees, today's travels, meals and a Ferry back to UIG on Wednesday.)
Today's trip (for £4.40 for the 'return') was to STORNAWAY for an each-way mileage of 35 miles. At Stornaway, I made, this time, my walks in PARK areas, (more of the opposite side path - almost as far as opposite GOAT ISLAND) returning to newer parks, a bowling green area, the Coop Supermarket and so on.
This constant EXPOSURE of the skin of my neck and arms to the sun's rays has made me very SORE, although not unduly sunburnt. This has been my first time for ages - to be in this uncomfortable position. I made no further walks in the evening, - with just relaxation in my own 'twin' room with Radio2 (on top of my bed, with coffees, biscuits and cake!)
An 'early night' was called for, and achieved, but it was LIGHT for this time of year this far NORTH!
15th May 2001 (Tuesday)
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--------------------------------------------------------- ISLE OF MAN
This was part of my "Exploring the UK by "NATIONAL EXPRESS COACHES" !!!
To add a personal challenge to merely modifying commercial packages and 'doing-my- own-thing' at the end of their trip, I've researched many destinations within the large orbit of NATIONAL EXPRESS to revisit places (mainly ISLANDS) and try some new ones. I'm intent on combining National Express with other services and accommodation. These are all DIY explorations!
National Express Tickets are bought using E-Commerce with this LINK!
With the Isle of Man:: JULY 2001
I stayed at the AVALON in Douglas, (plus a night in Liverpool) avoiding the main TT and Sports events and explored the place slowly, like:-
1. Manx Electric to Ramsey. 2. Steam rail to Port Erin and Port St Mary 3. Mountain Rail to Snaefell and Laxey- 4. Horse-drawn Douglas Trams 5. Groudle Glen and Steam Train 6. Appreciable walking!
The Isle of Man 'link' gives the actual travelogue!
Return to Top of AD2001 indexCHINA
CHINESE EXPERIENCES
More about THESE in the various links that follow, but just a quick taste:
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Beijing and Tiananmen Square
Part of the GREAT Wall
Cruise up Yangtse River and through its Gorges
The Terracotta Warriors at Xian
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For the Chinese travelogue's start,
go to ' China index' page
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Done in OCTOBER
LEANING TOWER OF PISA!!!Included: Northern France, Milan, Tuscany region, Florence (I had missed this a few decades ago whilst touring Europe), Lucca, PISAand Paris. (Write-up and photos in a Travelogue to Pisa !)
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Return to Roy's home page for full list of books and travelogues either finished or under preparation.
roy@olympus.u-net.com /